edboys Posted August 11, 2014 Posted August 11, 2014 Chris, the earlier posts stating that the body was too narrow pointed out the only flaw I noticed. You made a great first attempt and a second try will correct the problem. Just wondering? - with the amount of time you have invested doing the drawing, and then waiting for TDR to return product to you, how many times could you redo these parts before you get what you want? I run into that problem all the time. I so want to do a master set of those myself. You get a real good idea on how wide/tall the body should be by comparing them sitting on the valve covers. The spacing between the spark plug holes gives you great relationship to observe for size. Your build looks great by the way!
Mooneyzs Posted August 11, 2014 Author Posted August 11, 2014 Ira... Thank you my friend. Mark.... you are right that with the time I put in to draw these up I could probably of made another set or two. I guess that I was wanting to make sure that both of them were identical and I know my first set they weren't. I didn't mind at all spending the time to draw them up correct. I honestly think they will be better in the long run doing them this way. After it was noted to me that they weren't wide enough I went back and looked at the pics and noticed the spacing between the spark plugs and I realized they weren't wide enough. I missed the boat the first go around on that. How I started drawing the 2nd set was I used the information that Scott gave me and I was able to find the bolt hole spacing from the link and then I searched more on the site he sent and found more information on the size of the gasket which helped with me making the length and width of the flange. You know whats funny is that with you saying you wanted to do a master set of these I was thinking to myself when I was drawing these up that I need to have an extra set made and send to you. I will get a set for you and you can cast them and sell them with your motors. Thanks for the compliments on the build I just wish I was making some faster progress. I am going to get some bench time in this week and hope to have the valve covers and blower in final primer and ready for paint this week.
edboys Posted August 13, 2014 Posted August 13, 2014 That would be great. Just send them over once you get 'em. I'm finally getting your new 417 manifold done and then a new mold can be completed. This summer has been so busy I look forward to the fall and colder weather. You can take the credit for my effort to work with Scott on the photoetch pieces as it was Scott who informed me that he worked with you to size the butterflies for the Enderle bugcatcher on your request. Once I get the new bugcatcher finished I wanted to send you the new part to use. Your build is the ultimate inspiration to anyone who follows the progress. I'm just glad that you chose to use one of my engines for the build.
bobthehobbyguy Posted August 13, 2014 Posted August 13, 2014 Looking good Chris. Just curious what will the breathers cost to have 3 d printed.
Mooneyzs Posted August 14, 2014 Author Posted August 14, 2014 Mark.... I will definitely get a set made for you and will let you know when I get them. Thats awesome you are working on the new manifold, just remember no rush on it since I am not evem close to starting that project yet ,so if you have other things you need to work on or take care of I completely understand. I really want to see you get back to your Jewel T project. I hear you on having the weather cool down. I have been wanting to paint some parts bad with my air brush and since i spray on the side of my house I have held off on spraying with the humidity and hot weather here right now during our monsoon season. Yeah i did talk to scott about doing butterflies because I was trying to figure out the best way to scratch build them and thought I would ask him about if he would be interested in doing photo etch ones since I am trying to capture as much detail as I can with this funny car. That sounds cool about the new bug catcher. You know I was able to find some dimensions to some bug catchers and I had someone kind enough to tell me about a website that had the info. I should draw and model them up in solidworks. I have to be honest that ever since I have started this build and got this 426 hemi from you I wouldn't use anyother 1/16th scale resin engines on my builds now. Your engines are the best resin engines in the business. So thank you for always going that extra mile for us 1/16rh scale builders. Bob... thank you for the kind words. I havent gotten a price on them yet but as soon as I sent them to shapeways to quote them I will let you know how much they will charge.
Cubeman Posted August 14, 2014 Posted August 14, 2014 Hi Chris, i am sure your cad model is great. But I could'nt resist the challenge, to do my own one. I converted it into STL format, which should work fine with printing. The scaling is not correct by now, but you might use it with your fantastic funny car built. Cubehttps://www.dropbox.com/s/9rzwvkgvvvdnb19/Breather.stl
Mooneyzs Posted August 14, 2014 Author Posted August 14, 2014 Cube... that is cool you modeled it up too. I checked it out and it looks nice. What CAD program did you use? I was trying to measure it. Was curious what the bolt hole spacing was as well as the height length and width.
Cubeman Posted August 14, 2014 Posted August 14, 2014 Chris, I did mine with a polygonal modeler, named Cinema 4D. Feel free to use it.
Mooneyzs Posted August 14, 2014 Author Posted August 14, 2014 Very cool thank you.... looks like it is more of a rendering program vs CAD program.
Mooneyzs Posted August 15, 2014 Author Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) Looking good Chris. Just curious what will the breathers cost to have 3 d printed. Bob... I just got done uploading the breathers to shapeways to see what they would cost. Here are prices Shapeways calculated for me on the following materials: White, Strong & Flexible - $1.63 ea Frosted Detail - $5.23 ea Frosted Ultra Detail - $5.33 ea Edited August 15, 2014 by Mooneyzs
bobthehobbyguy Posted August 20, 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 That's not bad.If you made a master and cast it the costs would be more.The big thing is creating the file for the part and you are fortunate you can do that. I would think that the regular part would be fine don't think the frosted part would be needed. Keep up the good work. Any updates?
simonr Posted August 20, 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 Nice project so far, what about this for 1/24? Simon P Rivera Torrres Bob... I just got done uploading the breathers to shapeways to see what they would cost. Here are prices Shapeways calculated for me on the following materials: White, Strong & Flexible - $1.63 ea Frosted Detail - $5.23 ea Frosted Ultra Detail - $5.33 ea
Mooneyzs Posted August 20, 2014 Author Posted August 20, 2014 (edited) Bob... no the the price isnt too bad. I have sent the files to a good friend to have him print them for me bit I am going to also order a set of each from shapeways so I can compare the quality of all of them. I have other parts that I want to model up and have printed. Part of my reason is because certain things I want for builds no one makes. I have also beening thinking about making them avaliable to anyone else who would like them and can use them on their builds as well. I know 1/16th scale is a harder market to find parts available for but what ever I do in 1/16th scale could easly be scaled for another scale. Since I am drawing thr parts up in 1:1. Its easy enough in the CAD program I use to scale them down. As far as progress on the build i started back on the vavle covers last night and hope to have some updated pics tonight to share. Simon... let me scale them down to 1/24 and I will let you know what price shapewaya calculates for those materials. I would think that for 1/24 to get the detail is that they would need to be the frosted ultra detail. Edited August 20, 2014 by Mooneyzs
simonr Posted August 21, 2014 Posted August 21, 2014 OK, Chris just let me know, because I'm doing the 1/24 version with some kind of detail... Simon P.Rivera Torres
Mooneyzs Posted August 21, 2014 Author Posted August 21, 2014 Simon... I should have a price tonight after I get home from work in a little bit. I was planning on updating a few other parts and re-uploading them on shapeways. I had a few areas on a couple of parts that the thickness needed to be a little thicker. When You upload parts on shapeways it does a quick analyze to make sure the thickness and model is ok on things and will show any ares of concern. Stay tuned and I will have info for you.
Mooneyzs Posted August 21, 2014 Author Posted August 21, 2014 Simon... I got the breather scaled down to 1/24th and the prices are as follows what shapeways quoted: White, Strong & Flexiable - $1.55 ea Frosted Ultra Detail $5.09 ea the only issue I see is that with the White Strong and Flexible is that the size that it is there is some thin walls I got when I uploaded the parts around the mounting holes. So for giggle and grins I thought let me take the mounting holes out and change the main big inlet/outlet holes to get rid of the thin walls and see what the price came out. Since shapeways prices things by volume there wasn't much difference between the two ways I tried but I was curious. if you want to see and image of them I can save them out as a jpeg and post it, just let me know so you can see what I am talking about.
simonr Posted August 22, 2014 Posted August 22, 2014 No problem, Chris, take your time and make the corrections you're telling. I know you will do it correctly. Yes, if you can post in jpeg I can see it. Thanks a lot for you great help on my little proyect. Yours had help me a lot... Simón P. Rivera Torres Simon... I got the breather scaled down to 1/24th and the prices are as follows what shapeways quoted: White, Strong & Flexiable - $1.55 ea Frosted Ultra Detail $5.09 ea the only issue I see is that with the White Strong and Flexible is that the size that it is there is some thin walls I got when I uploaded the parts around the mounting holes. So for giggle and grins I thought let me take the mounting holes out and change the main big inlet/outlet holes to get rid of the thin walls and see what the price came out. Since shapeways prices things by volume there wasn't much difference between the two ways I tried but I was curious. if you want to see and image of them I can save them out as a jpeg and post it, just let me know so you can see what I am talking about. d
Mooneyzs Posted August 22, 2014 Author Posted August 22, 2014 No problem, Chris, take your time and make the corrections you're telling. I know you will do it correctly. Yes, if you can post in jpeg I can see it. Thanks a lot for you great help on my little proyect. Yours had help me a lot... Simón P. Rivera Torres d Simon... Here is a couple of pics of the parts modeled in Solidworks.... Front View - 1/16th on the left, 1/24th in the middle and right. As you can see the one on the right I removed the mounting holes as well as I made the hole where the hose attaches to smaller. I did that to see if it would get rid of the errors I was having in the White strong and flexible material. It did But my personal opinion is that its probably best to do it in the Frosted Ultra Detail because it will turn out better and capture a little more of the detail. Although the draw back is that they will cost a tad more but if one wanted to go with the White strong and flexible you could always drill your own mounting holes and open up the hole for the hose: Top View - Same Order 1/16th on the left and 1/24th both in middle and Right: Back View - 1/24th on left and middle, 1/16th on the Right:
Mooneyzs Posted August 22, 2014 Author Posted August 22, 2014 Ok Fellas as promised here are a few pics of the valve covers. They are almost done and ready for paint. I noticed tonight after getting some primer on them that I have just a couple more spots that I need to touch up and then they will be ready for the final primer coat. then I can sand with some fine paper and finally get some Black base and Alclad on them. Here is a few pics... Here I was getting the valve covers sanded with some 500 grit paper: I added some Bondo in a few of the last areas I noticed that needed some filler: Here they are after shooting some primer on them. I noticed a few spots that I need to do a little sanding and fixing then they should be ready for their last primer coat: Another view in primer:
gasser59 Posted August 22, 2014 Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) Man oh man, those are looking nice lil' brother. Really looking forward to seeing them in Alclad. Bet you are too. LOL Edited August 22, 2014 by gasser59
ClayK Posted August 22, 2014 Posted August 22, 2014 I wish I had half your patience and dedication Chris. Great work.
Mooneyzs Posted August 22, 2014 Author Posted August 22, 2014 Brad... they are almost there but need a little more TLC.... to make them pass inspection...lol I am probably a harder critque on my own work because I want it to be perfect. I sure wish the humidity would go away so I could do some painting... i want to see thesw in Alclad really bad...lol Scott... thank you for the kind words. Clay... thank you. Your builds have given me that extra motivation to push my limits farther than they have ever been before. Thank you for being an inspiration to me.
simonr Posted August 22, 2014 Posted August 22, 2014 Wow Chris, this is an impressive work. Now, in order to get them, what I have to do? Simon P. Rivera Torres Simon... Here is a couple of pics of the parts modeled in Solidworks.... Front View - 1/16th on the left, 1/24th in the middle and right. As you can see the one on the right I removed the mounting holes as well as I made the hole where the hose attaches to smaller. I did that to see if it would get rid of the errors I was having in the White strong and flexible material. It did But my personal opinion is that its probably best to do it in the Frosted Ultra Detail because it will turn out better and capture a little more of the detail. Although the draw back is that they will cost a tad more but if one wanted to go with the White strong and flexible you could always drill your own mounting holes and open up the hole for the hose: Top View - Same Order 1/16th on the left and 1/24th both in middle and Right: Back View - 1/24th on left and middle, 1/16th on the Right:
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