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The Cars of Rock 'n' Roll and Country Music


CorvairJim

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Looks like one "Slick Pick 'Em Up Truck" to me so far, Aaron! I like the idea of the Chevy 427 motivation. As we Bowtie fans say up here in the states: "Built Ford Tough... With CHEVY STUFF!" :)

The best part is the headers only JUST fit in there LOL! Cheers mate. More progress soon, once I get the hang of the mud technique. I have a bit of reading to do i think :D

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Update: Mexican blanket done. Basswood side boards, sides and rear of the deck frame. They were stained with burnt sienna and raw sienna acrylic craft paints. I filled the spare tire well and I'm having difficulty making the fender look like nothing was there. Grill looking good. I've got a great banjo steering wheel from some diecast that's really going to look good in this. More soon.

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Another update. Firewall smoothed and decaled. Hood is BMF'd and then roughed for a bare metal look. Stein shifter top from the Beer Wagon. And the color of the grill surround is what this model will be done in with flames done in flat black and silver.

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"Well up in the back woods down in the holler, ol'd boy's swingin' like a dog on a collar, keepin' that chain pulled tight, waitin' on Saturday night. Put on the smell good put on Skynyrd, head into town like a NASCAR winner, cruisin' back and forth to the Tasty Freeze, everywhere you look, all you see is......."

HILLBILLY DELUXE

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Aaron, what are you taking photos with? Camera phone or..........? And you need to find a way to get more light on your subject. Take it outside or something. I've seen a lot of bad pics from you now it's real hard to see the quality of your work.

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Aaron, what are you taking photos with? Camera phone or..........? And you need to find a way to get more light on your subject. Take it outside or something. I've seen a lot of bad pics from you now it's real hard to see the quality of your work.

My camera is a brand newby and is actually quite good. I have very poor lighting in my hobby room so perhaps some shots outside when the weather clears up will be a good idea.

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Bandit, the checker board is a home made decal, that was done by persons unknown to me. I got them in a trade, from someone who got them in a trade.

Disco, by all means get some better lighting and also make sure you are using the macro setting. It is designated by a small flower symbol on most cameras.

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Aaron: I have to agree with Rob - I love the truck but I'd like to see some better shots of it to be able to better see your work. Let's REALLY see that slick pick 'em up truck of yours!

Rob: That ol' Flatbed Ford looks fantastic! Can't wait to see the black 'n' silver flames you mentioned on it.

I finally got a start on my "Little Old Lady" Dodge. The interior is close to complete and the body has been cleaned up and it's in primer. I'm trying to figure out the best way to paint it with the multi-piece engine bay sheet metal so that I get the overspray pattern correct. This is only the second Lindberg model I've built (the other being the '61 Impala), and I'm still a little vague on how they engineer them. Does anyone out there know if I can pre-assemble the engine bay sheet metal to the chassis and paint it as a unit before installing the engine/transmission? B)

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Aaron: I have to agree with Rob - I love the truck but I'd like to see some better shots of it to be able to better see your work. Let's REALLY see that slick pick 'em up truck of yours!

No worries mate, I'll re-do the pics soon under more intense lighting.

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Rob: That ol' Flatbed Ford looks fantastic! Can't wait to see the black 'n' silver flames you mentioned on it.

I finally got a start on my "Little Old Lady" Dodge. The interior is close to complete and the body has been cleaned up and it's in primer. I'm trying to figure out the best way to paint it with the multi-piece engine bay sheet metal so that I get the overspray pattern correct. This is only the second Lindberg model I've built (the other being the '61 Impala), and I'm still a little vague on how they engineer them. Does anyone out there know if I can pre-assemble the engine bay sheet metal to the chassis and paint it as a unit before installing the engine/transmission? B)

I have decided to do some classic shop truck door art instead of the flames.

As for you Dodge question, I've no idea. I'd start another thread and ask folks who have build that one already.

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Thanks, Aaron. That's all I need to know. I'll just make sure I have the headers painted well before I get to the point where I'll be installing the drivetrain, and then I'll just go as carefully as I can. I know all about tight drivetrain fits with the number of AMT Corvairs I've built over the years: Those take a ton of finesse to get them in place without knocking parts off! :lol:

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Thanks, Aaron. That's all I need to know. I'll just make sure I have the headers painted well before I get to the point where I'll be installing the drivetrain, and then I'll just go as carefully as I can. I know all about tight drivetrain fits with the number of AMT Corvairs I've built over the years: Those take a ton of finesse to get them in place without knocking parts off! :lol:

that's true, however I've found with humbrol glues that if both contact surfaces are not only clean but lightly sanded parts will stay on much better. I think the sand paper creates grooves in the part and therefore makes channels for the glue to sit in and set hard.

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I've taken to drilling the carbs and the heads of the Corvair engines and pinning them together with a piano wire 'stud' and super glue. That usually does the trick. If I do that with the Dodge's headers, I don't think I'll have too much trouble. I've never worked with Humbrol glue, but the same principle should apply with whatever plastic cement you use - More surface area to bond. Super glue needs as smooth and even a mating surface as possible.

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I've taken to drilling the carbs and the heads of the Corvair engines and pinning them together with a piano wire 'stud' and super glue. That usually does the trick. If I do that with the Dodge's headers, I don't think I'll have too much trouble. I've never worked with Humbrol glue, but the same principle should apply with whatever plastic cement you use - More surface area to bond. Super glue needs as smooth and even a mating surface as possible.

I personally have made a steer away from super glue, it's terrible to use and leaves a nasty white glaze on the jointing points. Each to there own but Hasegawa make a great glue also, a little thicker than humbrol, so it doesn't run, and it bonds just as good.

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Thanks for the tip, Aaron. I'll have to look into it. It might be a while before I can do that, because the "Local Hobby Shop" isn't all that local - about 15 miles out of the way. I can get super glue at the chain drug store 1 1/2 blocks from home.

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I just remembered: I'll be going to a farmer's market on Saturday that's right up the road from a decent hobby shop! Hopefully I'll remember to stop in and look for the Hasegawa and/or Humbrol glues. It sounds like one of these would be the way to go.

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Here's some outdoor pics guys:

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The truck seen in the background here is my show winning "Feral Ute"

part of an Australian tradition that celebrates country music.

It's also named Hillbilly Deluxe.

Edited by DiscoSpud
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I just remembered: I'll be going to a farmer's market on Saturday that's right up the road from a decent hobby shop! Hopefully I'll remember to stop in and look for the Hasegawa and/or Humbrol glues. It sounds like one of these would be the way to go.

Seems kinda funny to respond to my own post, but I went to that farmer's market this past Saturday and found that the hobby shop I wanted to stop in at was out of business. Locked up tight, empty floors completely cleaned out including the shelves, and a realtor's "For Lease" sign out front. I hate to see that sort of thing happening, but in today's economy It's happening all too often. Obama has all sorts of sympathy for corporations that are "Too big to fail", but none at all for the little "Mom & Pop" operation and us private citizens. Hey Barack, where's OUR bailout? My wife is still waiting for her Federal Disability to kick in after being permanently injured working for the Federal Government and we're in danger of losing our house as a direct result. B) We have trouble meeting our bills every month, and have had our phone, water, and electricity turned off at various times over the past year due to not being able to juggle the payments in such a way that every creditor is satisfied all the time. I don't even want to go into how cold it gets in a nearly 100 year old house in the winter when we run out of heating oil and can't afford any more for another week or more... But cuddling can be REAL nice!

I guess I shouldn't be buying model supplies when money is so tight, but we don't have cable TV and reception of the new, federally mandated "High Definition" signal in our area, even with the free converter boxes and the antennae we had to buy on our own dime is terrible. We can't afford to go to movies (about $12/ticket around here, matinees about $8), ball games (the cheap seats for our Phillies run in the $40 range), or NASCAR races (starting around $80 at Dover and maybe $60 at Pocono, the two closest tracks), so looked at that way, car models are a bargain as far as keeping myself entertained goes! We do go to minor league ball games occasionally, which are a great sports bargain with tickets and food being much, much cheaper than their big league counterparts... and FREE PARKING!

Edited by CorvairJim
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car models are a bargain as far as keeping myself entertained goes!

This is true. I sometimes struggle though so I let a project linger on a bit to get the most out of it before I purchase another kit.

What do you think of the newer photos Jim? I hope they turned out okay. The weather has been shocking here lately.

And I know all about cold weather cuddles, my girlfriend has been more than happy to help in that area B)

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