Polishing Kit use

[Evil Appetite]

I have an LMG polishing kit I have yet to try out, and am wondering, do I have to alternate directions when moving from one grit to another..or does it matter. Do you use heavy pressure..or just light pressure.

--- Mike

Edited March 24, 2011 by Evil Appetite

[ffreak]

As he said you don't HAVE to, but I myself generally alternate directions with each grit to make sure you get the full effect of the grits. Depending on the curvature and trim areas of the body, sometimes I don't always follow that rule, only where it's feasable for the flater and larger areas. And I second that you don't have to use pressure, let the grits do the work for you.

[Evil Appetite]

Thanks guys...much appreciated!

--- Mike

[mrmike]

The way that I understand it, when you start with the coarse grit, you are, in a way, damaging the paint. Using the next grit in a different direction, you are removing that damage. So, to me, it would be best to alternate directions on every grit used. Try it out both ways and see for yourself which one works the best for you.

[Foxer]

This is a good discussion. I always changed directions mostly because instructions said so and it makes sense, as Mike noted. It's good to hear some do stay in the same direction when the curves/area dictates.

[Jim Gibbons]

I've used both straight and alternating direction, depending on the model. I prefer to alternate, but clearly, it would be nearly impossible to use the alternating direction method for something like the rear quarter panel under the fin on a '59 Chevy. The past few years, I've been using Tamiya rattle cans, and with a carefully applied paint job, I've been able to start with much finer grits. I can't remember using anything less than the mid range in those polishing kits in many years. Unless you have a paint job with a lot of orange peel, drips, etc., start with the finest grit you can use. I also polish the paint directly without using a clear coat, unless it is metallic or special paint; then I apply clear. Hope this helps.

[Zoom Zoom]

Alternating is good, but I don't use many of the grits on final polish. I use the heavier grits (1500-2400) for primer, and 3200/4000 for getting out dust nibs, but w/most models shot w/Tamiya clear I buff out after 4000 grit w/Tamiya coarse compound which is made for the paint, works wonders. I like doing the heavy duty wetsanding in the coats beneath the final clear or color.

[sbk]

Alternating directions between grits is a good way to check the polishing steps. If you switch to the next grit & see marks in the direction of the previous grit, you need to keep it up with that grit until the previous grit's marks are gone. I also read not to use circular polishing motions because circluar scratches are more noticalbe than linear scratches. Makes sense to me.

[simonr]

I do the same thing after the 4000, but, I use the hard to find Finisher's three stage compound set.

Simón P. Rivera Torres

Alternating is good, but I don't use many of the grits on final polish. I use the heavier grits (1500-2400) for primer, and 3200/4000 for getting out dust nibs, but w/most models shot w/Tamiya clear I buff out after 4000 grit w/Tamiya coarse compound which is made for the paint, works wonders. I like doing the heavy duty wetsanding in the coats beneath the final clear or color.