Decals and panel lines

[rickd13]

I was wondering how you guys handle decals that cover panel lines. Do you cut the decal, or do you just cover the panel line and try to make them form? If you cut them, how do you go about doing so without making them look ragged or ruining them? Do you have to wait until they are dry, or do you cut them when you are applying them and they are wet?

[1320wayne]

I do a lot of decal work and setting solution is a very needy tool to have. Solv-a-set or Micro-sol/Micro-set is something you would need to help those decals snug down into contours, crevices and door/panel lines. Sometimes even that isn't good enough so you might have to cut the decal to get it to settle in the rest of the way. If your line is that deep that you have to cut the decal you probably won't have to worry about the cut showing up but if it does you can conceal the cut with a simple black wash laid into the panel line that will actually add detail to your finished work. I don't ever cut a decal before applying it (if possible) because if your not lined up perfectly then you will have other problems. And, it's sometimes very hard to cut a decal while it's still wet as it might want to move on you or wrinkle. I always try to let the drying process set in at least for a little bit before attemtping to cut the decal. A lot of your success will have a lot to do with the decal as well. Some kit decals will give you fits, especially if it's an older kit and the decal has aged. Some aftermarket decals are printed on high quality paper and work well with settling down. And, some aftermarket decals are very thin and you will want to use more care with those to avoid ripping and tearing while applying. As well, some decals won't respond well to setting solutions so if your not sure of whether or not this could happen with the decal your working with it is sometimes best to test the setting solution on an unuseable part of the decal just to be sure.

These are simply my opinions and techniques. Others might have more advice.

[MikeMc]

I do a lot of decal work and setting solution is a very needy tool to have. Solv-a-set or Micro-sol/Micro-set is something you would need to help those decals snug down into contours, crevices and door/panel lines. Sometimes even that isn't good enough so you might have to cut the decal to get it to settle in the rest of the way. If your line is that deep that you have to cut the decal you probably won't have to worry about the cut showing up but if it does you can conceal the cut with a simple black wash laid into the panel line that will actually add detail to your finished work. I don't ever cut a decal before applying it (if possible) because if your not lined up perfectly then you will have other problems. And, it's sometimes very hard to cut a decal while it's still wet as it might want to move on you or wrinkle. I always try to let the drying process set in at least for a little bit before attemtping to cut the decal. A lot of your success will have a lot to do with the decal as well. Some kit decals will give you fits, especially if it's an older kit and the decal has aged. Some aftermarket decals are printed on high quality paper and work well with settling down. And, some aftermarket decals are very thin and you will want to use more care with those to avoid ripping and tearing while applying. As well, some decals won't respond well to setting solutions so if your not sure of whether or not this could happen with the decal your working with it is sometimes best to test the setting solution on an unuseable part of the decal just to be sure.

These are simply my opinions and techniques. Others might have more advice.

Well said Wayne!!....only bit to add is use micro set first, then micro sol....

[curt raitz]

Most decals will respond to a hot steamy towel pressed onto the decal

I usually don't cut the decal until it has had a chance to settle down (either on it's own or with help from decal setting solution)

When cutting...use a new #11 blade and lightly score the decal covering the recessed panel line, then hit it with your favorite decal setting solution.

regarding decal setting solutions...I use 4 -5 different types

decals from different manufacturers will respond to a certain setting solution, but not to another one

It has been trail and error over the years

good luck

[W-409]

I've heard that put Micro Set to the water, where you dip the decals and use Micro Sol right after you have put the decal to its place. Those are really great liquids, it makes decal assembly much much easier. When I have a decal which sits on panel lines, I put it normally to the place and let it dry few minutes. So it's bit wet, but not much. Then I cut it from the panel lines. I use VERY SHARP hobby knife, like this one... Then bit of Micro Sol and the decals will sit nicely to panel lines. Then just some black wash to panel lines and it looks great to me.

[Guest]

I always let mine dry completely,then cut along each side of the panel line.

[wontonkiller]

Micro set/sol is really amazing ..they don't lie when it says painted on look ...

[Danno]

A lot of good advice here ... everybody has expressed a similar but slightly different approach. The important thing I would add is to try each technique until you find what you are comfortable with.

The MOST important thing is ... do something!

There is nothing in the world worse ~ no faster way to ruin the appearance of a model ~ than to have thick, heavy decals spanning panel lines ... especially doors or hood and trunk openings.

Makes a model look like a 1:1 car that had a sheet of plywood bolted onto its sides with painted-on flames.

There's a visual, huh?

[935k3]

First I cut them with a new #11 blade or a new single edge razor blade after the stay put. Then using a 10/0 paint brush I apply solven t in the panel line. A good tool to press the decal down in the crack is a toothpick sharpened to a flat blade shape. The use the "blade' to push the decal down in the crack.

Edited April 28, 2011 by 935k3