tyrone Posted February 20, 2012 Posted February 20, 2012 Man Joe this is looking really nice..... I have run into that problem before and I have done what Bart recomend to thin the inner fenders down and it helped out, but you can also do what Dave mentioned, and take the front end off first then open the doors.. But the work looks Fantastic....
comp1839 Posted February 20, 2012 Posted February 20, 2012 please note the outboard location of the hinge. i found this shot on someone else's website. can't remember who.
tyrone Posted February 20, 2012 Posted February 20, 2012 (edited) Here's a picture of the hinge point. I did'nt see this picl before I made that last post, but Dave's right... move the hinge point out closer toward the door shell and you should be okay... Edited February 20, 2012 by tyrone
Prostreet Posted February 20, 2012 Author Posted February 20, 2012 joe, the hinges need to move out further. the arc you are creating is moving forward instead of inward. moving the hinge point out will correct the issue. or just remove the front first. looks fantastic!!!!!!! Thx. Dave, I see what you are saying. I was trying to picture it in my head before but it would not compute lol, It's very easy to move as nothing is glued yet. I will report back later.
Prostreet Posted February 20, 2012 Author Posted February 20, 2012 Thx. for the help an info Bart and Tyrone. Be back later with pictures and how i make out.
Mooneyzs Posted February 21, 2012 Posted February 21, 2012 Joe... Looking great man. Love the work you are doing. the detail for the doors looks great and once you move the hinge point further out, you should be good to go and get that gap closed up on the front clip like you want. keep up the great work. I sure enjoy watching this build come together.
jmpsebring Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 Another great build and all new for some of us newbies on the site. If i could get you to back up to page one ...... for a minute, could you tell me what the main rail spacing width along the engine was on you car? I saw an older thread with a (perhaps older) Pro mod chassis drawing and it showed a 24" spacing. It looks all wrong. Is everyone just using the bell housing width +frame rails to set the width? Hope you or others understand the question. I'm trying to start a chassis layout on paper for a future build.
futurattraction Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) Seeing your pics, Joe, makes me wonder - is there a way I could design some photo etch door hinges that would lend themselves well to 1/24-25th and 1/16th scale builds? I'm already working on expanding my PE offerings and this seems to be something that might be a possibility. Anybody got any suggestions on what would work that could be easily adjustable and look "correct"? If anybody's got any ideas, let me know. Edited February 23, 2012 by futurattraction
jmpsebring Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 Seeing your pics, Joe, makes me wonder - is there a way I could design some photo etch door hinges that would lend themselves well to 1/24-25th and 1/16th scale builds? I'm already working on expanding my PE offerings and this seems to be something that might be a possibility. Anybody got any suggestions on what would work that could be easily adjustable and look "correct"? If anybody's got any ideas, let me know. Perhaps a thread could be started where those building a 1/16th cars (aka the buyer) could pool together their knowledge and suggest things needed. For example, a blower hold down plate to fit the PSI blower/hat . Window frame strips with tabs. P/E plate for the top of a MSD dist/Mag, etc. People are spending big money for bodies, engines, hubs, wheels, rod ends,etc. The only thing missing is a modern sheet of P/E. Sorry to put this in this thread, but anyone (aka buyers) reading this thread is a possible 1/16th builder.
futurattraction Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 That's a good suggestion, Jack. I doubt Joe will be too concerned about this rabbit trail in his thread. We've had some passing conversations about trying to get more 1/16th scale stuff out there and I'm working in that direction. Hey Joe! Where are you when we need you??? LOL
Prostreet Posted February 23, 2012 Author Posted February 23, 2012 Another great build and all new for some of us newbies on the site. If i could get you to back up to page one ...... for a minute, could you tell me what the main rail spacing width along the engine was on you car? I saw an older thread with a (perhaps older) Pro mod chassis drawing and it showed a 24" spacing. It looks all wrong. Is everyone just using the bell housing width +frame rails to set the width? Hope you or others understand the question. I'm trying to start a chassis layout on paper for a future build. Jack: I just based my center rails off the engine block and trans by looking at pictures and it has worked out for me, You can scale it down off a 1:1 which Bart (eviltwincustoms) and Dave (comp1839) on here do. I did scale down some stuff but not everything, My next one i will scale everything down. Another thing to consider when scaling down is your body scaled down correctly from a 1:1, if it's not then scaling everything else down can throw you off. I just traced the outline of the body and marked where the doors were and the center line of the body so my chassis would be centered, I also marked where the center of the wheels were to the wheelbase. Bart was a big help in getting me started in the right direction. After dinner i will PM you the rail spacing.
Prostreet Posted February 23, 2012 Author Posted February 23, 2012 Seeing your pics, Joe, makes me wonder - is there a way I could design some photo etch door hinges that would lend themselves well to 1/24-25th and 1/16th scale builds? I'm already working on expanding my PE offerings and this seems to be something that might be a possibility. Anybody got any suggestions on what would work that could be easily adjustable and look "correct"? If anybody's got any ideas, let me know. Scott: If you look at post #277 on page 14 the picture Dave posted, If you could do a bracket for the door like that would be very helpful. Not sure what could be done on the chassis side, Maybe Bart or Dave could chime in with some ideas, My brain is half fried right now from working on my doors. There driving me crazy, Hope to have some updates tonight. Also i don't mind the conversation in my thread, that's why we are all here to help each other, But a thread for suggestions and ideas would be cool.
Top asphaltRods Posted February 26, 2012 Posted February 26, 2012 I Like the Hinge post point so much ,that i was having so much trouble doing it in different way ,that i try it .like what is posted (272 PICTURE ).That i did it on 1/24 scale , promod that i am building it works great even better that what i have before .this awesome it works great thank you for showing how you did it
Prostreet Posted February 27, 2012 Author Posted February 27, 2012 (edited) I Like the Hinge post point so much ,that i was having so much trouble doing it in different way ,that i try it .like what is posted (272 PICTURE ).That i did it on 1/24 scale , promod that i am building it works great even better that what i have before .this awesome it works great thank you for showing how you did it Glad i could help, I got most of the ideas off other builders on here. You should check out Bart's (eviltwincustom) ADRL camaro build, His looks very scale. Hope to have a little update tonight. Just got done building my paint booth so now i will get to work on the car. Edited February 27, 2012 by Prostreet
eviltwincustoms Posted March 1, 2012 Posted March 1, 2012 Joe has a lot of great tips and to top it off, this is his first full blown chassis build. Looking at this thread you would never have know, because he executes exceptionally well! I am honored you would want to use my post as a reference for anyone. Thanks Joe, glad I could help and that goes for anyone else looking for assistance. This hobby is all about tapping into those who are willing to lend a hand.
jmpsebring Posted March 4, 2012 Posted March 4, 2012 Joe, did you ever resolve the turbo size issue? Shapeways website shows all the choices, but I'm at a lost if they have made changes or just sent you the wrong scale. Their blower and Lenco is quite amazing. I also bought a 1/1800 warship... .
eviltwincustoms Posted March 4, 2012 Posted March 4, 2012 [quote name='jmpsebring' timestamp='133 0891660' post='643914'] Joe, did you ever resolve the turbo size issue? Shapeways website shows all the choices, but I'm at a lost if they have made changes or just sent you the wrong scale. Their blower and Lenco is quite amazing. I also bought a 1/1800 warship... .
Prostreet Posted March 4, 2012 Author Posted March 4, 2012 I originally bought the 4-1/2" turbos which turned out to be way to big, I guess i assumed the 4-1/2" size refered to the inlet sizes which would be scale for a promod car which run 98 or 101mm turbos. I think they would have been more scale for a 1/12th scale car. So i now have the 2-1/2" which the overall size is in scale for a 1/16th promod car, But the inlet is smaller than it should be. I may be able to open it up a little more, you could probably even go with the 3". I'm not sure what they go by to determine the scale of the turbos. I'm still fighting with my passenger door, did some body work to it. Once i get that squared away and i decide how to mount my turbos and get the 2 halfs glued together and get some primer on the turbos so you can see them better in the pictures. Hope this helped.
Prostreet Posted March 11, 2012 Author Posted March 11, 2012 (edited) Not much of an update, I was having issue's with the passenger side door. Have lots of body work to do on that and was basically getting frustriated , So i figured best to take a break from it for a while. I figured i would do a little mock up, On the frontend you can see i made some little fastener plates to hold the frontend on. They are made out of brass rod with brass plate solder to them and holes drilled, I also did some re-working of the front struts. For the inside of the front clip i used some brass rod glued into the hood for mounting pins, I received my order from dirtmodeler so i plan on getting the front motor plate done and the motor mounted and hopefully start on the headers. Edited March 11, 2012 by Prostreet
futurattraction Posted March 11, 2012 Posted March 11, 2012 It's looking good Joe! Your mock up really whets my appetite to see what it'll look like when it's all buttoned up.
eviltwincustoms Posted March 11, 2012 Posted March 11, 2012 Lookin awesome Joe! Makes me want to get off of my duff and start working on mine again. Just been chillin, just got home from a business trip from Mexico, and next week is my sons spring break, so I will be extremely busy playing with legos and going to the park.
tyrone Posted March 11, 2012 Posted March 11, 2012 Boy she looking good Joe the first and the third pics are my favorite... love all the cage work you've done on this one... I got a 1/25th 57 chevy yesterday in the mail... It will be my next project with a blown engine... keep up the great work... I love this build...
Romell R Posted March 11, 2012 Posted March 11, 2012 Good job Joe I like the way you have the fastners hooked uo , that was brillant!
W-409 Posted March 11, 2012 Posted March 11, 2012 This looks very good so far. Can't wait to see it painted. I like the work you've done with the chassis. Firewall looks very good too.
Mooneyzs Posted March 11, 2012 Posted March 11, 2012 Joe.... this is looking great bud. Having the body on the chassis and having it on rubber.... loving the stance. I like the brass fastener tabs that you made for the front clip to attach too. It looks great.
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