kenb Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I was at a buddies house the other day, he does beatiful builds, cars only. I saw that he was using tube glue and asked him what liquid glue he uses. He said he didn't use liquid. I told him to get out of the stone age, he said he didn't care for liquid. His builds are fantastic, not glue bombs. I favor Tenax and hardly ever use tube. If I need something requiring tube I use super glue. Another friend who isn't a hobbiest but works with plastic said that Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) is the same thing as liquid glue and that I was wasting my money buying those little bottles. Well I have a quart of MEK that I use to cut down some paints and tried it on plastic. He just may be right. Seemed to work just like Tenax. What do you use? Ken
Dr. Cranky Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I use TAMIYA EXTRA THIN liquid cement, some epoxy, clear gloss, and also some crazy glue . . . I apply them all with needles and or toothpics . . .
MachinistMark Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 (edited) i pretty much snatch up any new glue i come across, as different things require different glues. But for the majority of the kits general construction Good old orange testors tube glue. Tenax for any major surgery (where i need a good strong bond that sets up super quick) white glue for clear parts Edited November 2, 2011 by MachinistMark
Harry P. Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 Liquid styrene cement for general building. Much easier to apply precisely than tube glue, and no annoying glue "strings" all over the place. Epoxy when/where extra strength is needed. Crazy glue (CA), white glue and clear acrylic as needed for specific instances (clear parts, PE emblems, gluing dissimilar materials, etc.) Different situations call for different adhesives, but regular old "tube glue" is the one I use the least of all.
tabsscale1 Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I useAmbroid Pro weld and Testors liquid cement in the black bottles. I have CA and epoxy but hardly ever use either of them. I tried Tenax a couple different time and just threw it away. Ambroid Just works so much better. I have Also got some of Plastruct liquid cement as well that work just as good as the Ambroid. Ambriod around here is hard to come by so when i do see itI buy 2 or 3 bottles of it.
Erik Smith Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I use super glue for about 85 to 90 percent of the time. I use tamiya extra thin next, then testors clear "glass" glue, 5 minute epoxy and least often testors liquid.
brad4321 Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I like Tamiya's extra thin liquid cement a lot. Works great and very easy.
von Zipper Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I like to use Future to install head lights and P/E parts.-Chris
Dr. Cranky Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 Walther's Goo is a wonderful glue for holding parts together during mocking . . .
SuperStockAndy Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 (edited) I use Plastruct Pro Weld for some parts, and the Testors junk (not the stuff in the tube) for most of my parts. I'd get Tenax.....but there's nowhere to get it at I also use RTV silicone for installing glass. It's definitely my favorite for installing glass because once it's dry, it comes off fairly easy. Edited November 2, 2011 by Andy C.
SuperStockAndy Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I believe it's also highly flammable. (runs to the model room to check.) Yep it is! Come on you sissy, light it on fire and make sure! :lol:
VooDooCC Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I use the MEK almost exclusively so far, but the headaches can be brutal. Would the Tenax or Ambroid be better about fumes? Also, can I use those in a touch n flow? Back to topic: I never got the knack down for the tube stuff, have used the testors pink label a little and am going to order some tamiya extra thin to try it out.
VooDooCC Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 Dave, very good call on it being worth the headaches. I just assumed other solvents would cause them too.
SuperStockAndy Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I already start my wood burning stove with Lacquer Thinner. Don't think the wife would like MEK in it too lol Paul Seriously?
Maindrian Pace Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 Slow and medium CA, liquid styrene, and two tubes of this: Came in a model box from a friend who had it in a closet for over 30 years. I don't know exactly how old it is, but it still works perfectly, and believe it or not, no strings. I've had Testors tube glue start stringing in one year. -MJS
Jordan White Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I just use superglue from Wally World (can't remember the brand, but the bottle has a blue label.) I also use white glue for windows/lights and for temporary fitment.
scalenut Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 all of the above ,, I'm a hobby supply hoarder and have to try everything. I've use a lot of proweld but after trying tamiya extra thin I like it better gives a tiny bit more working time.just right. I don't know how it can be any weaker than other solvent glues since it makes a weld bead if you squeeze the parts together.
charlie8575 Posted November 3, 2011 Posted November 3, 2011 I still use Testors tube glue for things I want to dry slowly, but I've noticed it doesn't seem to work as well as it used to, and the stringing is getting to be a lot worse than it ever was. Does the Tamiya stuff dry at about the same rate? Sometimes I find the other liquids set up a little too fast for what I want, but if a slow-setting liquid is available, I'd certainly be willing to try it. I have been using the Testors clear parts cement. Other than that horrible spout bottle that it came in (I had to almost completely trim it back to get it to open,) I like it very much, and recommend it. Charlie Larkin
Kit Basher Posted November 3, 2011 Posted November 3, 2011 I'm one of those label reading guys. Testor's liquid (glass bottle) is MEK. I use Ambroid, which is methylene chloride, also something you don't want to play with. It is the active ingredient in the most powerful paint removers. The Ambroid may not be as strong, but the paint remover will definitely burn your skin, and the vapors are bad news. As the labels say: "Use with adequate ventilation"!
Darin Bastedo Posted November 3, 2011 Posted November 3, 2011 I use all of the above depending on what I need. I use Tube glue, liquid glue, Glue sticks (like the kids use) , epoxy, super glue, laquer thinner, double stick tape, Jb weld etc. I don't care what brand as I haven't found a huge difference.
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