brad4321

I've never used Duplicolor. Just purchase any of their sealer primers? (I'll never make this mistake again.)

The metallizers hid the Sharpie. Then I primed it, and voila, they're back.

So here's where I'm at. Ink, maybe two layers of primer, one layer of metallizers. The layer of metallizers did hide the ink to a large degree. I want to put a second layer on to see if that does it, but I also wanted to stop until I have a plan. What would you suggest is my next move?

And apparently has an ink that just won't quit.

Thanks. Should've thought of that. Careless error on my part. I'm hoping a few layers of metallizers do the trick.

Like an idiot, (I've made this error before) I used a red Sharpie to make marks. How do I cover them up? Grey primer and silver lacquer didn't do it. Thanks.

I'm moving into a new home with a nice attic. I have a lot of models that need a place to wait til I again gain interest. Is it wise to store them in that kind of hot/cold environment? Thanks.

My HobbyTown is about 2 miles away. I'm spoiled. I buy supplies, low priced kits that I can't find at Hobby Lobby. I will buy a high priced kit if the price is anywhere close to what I can find online. As far as coupons, I always ask what they have, and the guy says, yeah I'll hook you up. And thehe guys in there have answered a hundred questions for me over the years. I'll pay a little more. I hope the internet never puts actual stores out of business. I hate shopping online. I don't like waiting a few days for something. And I like the "thrill" of spotting something you really want on a shelf, and then having it right then. Heck, I almost always open the kit in my car before I pull out of the parking lot. I'm impatient.

I know that. My point was there are rules about the bat. You can't go up there with a titanium 2oz bat simply because you thought of it and built one.

The problem for me is the new points system. One thing Nascar had on the other sports was that every event was a huge piece of the puzzle. No long regular season followed by an exciting post season. Every single race for nine months mattered and all of them the same. Now, all these races during this part of the season are completely meaningless, and I don't mind as much missing them.

I don't agree with at all. There isn't parity. There is a tight set of rules. Too tight for my taste? Yes. But there is plenty of room for the best teams with the smartest engineers and crew chiefs, and best drivers, etc etc to dominate and win. To your baseball analogy, it would be like if the batters had rules governing the weight and length and make of bat. And thats exactly what they have. The best hitters hit, and the lesser hitters strike out. There are no rules in Nascar mandating how successful you can be. If you follow Nascar, you'll see there isn't much parity. The same teams finish up front and the same ol' teams finish in the rear.

I feel your pain. Even after years of practice, I still get stumped. Airbrushing is like playing golf. Some days, everything works. Some days, nothing works. And you feel like you're doing everything the same. What helped me recently is using more thinner and less pressure. Also helping me has been mixing the paint with thinner before I put it into the cup. I normally use Tamiya acrylics because they give the fewest amount of headaches. I've had no luck with Vallejo. Model Master acrylics are pretty easy to use. I never ever airbrush enamels. Maybe that's my problem.

My thoughts on primer. The Tamiya stuff is awesome. If you have a LHS or Hobby Lobby, get some and be done with it. Future can be a barrier, but I would never think of it as a primer. The main role of primer in my opinion is to show flaws. Plastic can look perfect.... until you put some grey primer on there. Gaps and sink marks and all kinds of uh-oh's appear. If you're painting a lighter color, make sure to use some white primer over the grey primer. The Tamiya stuff is easy to spray. I've never seen it attack anything. I've never come across a type of paint you can't use over it. Occasionally on military stuff I airbrush Vallejo's primer. I never use it though if you will be doing any masking as I've experienced lifting after using it more than once. Maybe my fault but...

Thanks. I thought for sure the silver would do the trick. Red didn't start to show until about the 3rd or so coat of white primer. Maybe I'll just build a pink 67 Corvette. :/

Body is molded in red. I want the body to be white. I covered completely in silver, then several coats of Tamiya white primer. Couple hours later and parts are turning pink. So... 1) Any ideas? 2) I'm not hell bent on the car being white. What colors (I really don't want black or aluminum) would hide the red bleed through? Red? What else?

1) If I have piece with some flat, and some gloss will it be uniformly glossy if I put a gloss clear over it? For example, I paint a part in gloss white. Then mask off a part and paint the rest a flat color. Then hit the whole thing with gloss. 2) I need to paint a body molded in red, white. So the red will not bleed, I paint it with a silver metallizer, then primer, then white. Does that sound ok?

Cool. Thanks. I typically use Tamiya Acrylics with their thinner. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and one of their compressors. I've been experimenting a lot with pressures and amount of thinner and I've just confused myself.

I've been airbrushing for about 5 years, and thought I was getting good. But lately I cannot lay down a glossy finish. I have an Iwata double action. Lately my flat finishes are coming out with a sandpaper finish. And I can't get a decent finish with gloss paint, which luckily I rarely have to use. I can't even get a good glossy finish out of Future. What the heck am I doing wrong lately? Thanks for the help.....

Congrats on finishing this kit. I got it couple years ago and its just awful. Put it away probably forever. Beautiful color and build.

I go about once a week because the girlfriend loves it. Same ol' models in the same ol' places every single time. I'm not really in a car building phase right now so it isn't exciting. The military and airplane selection stinks.

I also got an Iwata Eclipse from Hobby Lobby. Its so much better than what I was using before and completely changed what I feel I can do with my modeling. It was like going from a Honda Civic to a Corvette.

Nope. I went twice then decided to buy one with my 5$ Hobby Town coupon. Got it for 55 bucks. If it comes to HL, I'll build a second one.

I airbrush most everything, and indoors. The only thing I use rattle cans for is car bodies. I occasionally see someone mention good weather for painting. I usually step out onto back patio to use rattle cans. Is there certain types of tempor humidity that yield better or worse results? Thanks.

My little review wasn't intended to sound negative. I'm loving the kit. Like I said, it exceeded my expectations. And the fact that I would do it again is testament to it as I rarely want to do one kit more than once. I made some silly errors that were my fault for not forward thinking. And I wanted to point out potential pitfalls to others. Also, the center interior piece that goes around the gear shifter gave me fits. It fit well until I put the shifter in. I ended up with a large gap. Again my fault for not checking the fit with that piece in it. If you got those seats together gap free with minimal effort, kudos. I've had about 4 putty and sanding sessions with them, but in the end all ok. Highly recommended kit in my opinion. I've built maybe 30 different Revell car kits, and none were better than this kit, again in my opinion.

I picked this kit up. I love cars but don't usually enjoy building model cars. I've become a plane and tank guy. So take this into account with my review. Great price I think for what you get. It's not much different than a 1/24 besides size but still. I haven't built a car kit by Revell that I thought was better. But there are plenty of ways to screw it up. My 2nd attempt will be much easier and better. I love large scale stuff so I'll do this again one day. I had to snap the headers off because the engine would not slide in with them on. I'm still not sure i will be able to get the steering thingy in there with the headers on. You should definitely drill holes in the block and distributor to accept the wires. The whole process was very difficult even in doing so. Do not glue the rear piece onto the body before it goes on the chassis. I tried to and failed. I think the interior is wonderful. Love the 2 piece steering wheel. Filling the seam all the way around the seats is a drain though. I made a few other mistakes but if you don't do things out of order, it's no problem. My fault for putting in rear suspension before the exhaust. This resulted in some putty and sanding work after everything was in place. I'm an idiot sometimes and impatient always. Anyway, great kit. Better than I expected but plenty of ways to totally mess this up and have it end up unfinished in the closet in the box.