securing the shell to the body?

[foxbat426]

just finishing up my first build, can you guys tell me how you secure the shell to the body or do you? don't want to make a mess of the paint job with to much glue. where exactly do i put the glue? - do you make the connection permanent? also i was think of using hot glue for this. i did use hot glue securing the bumper and it wasn't messy at all. the only problem is there isn't much time to work before the hot glue dries.

thx, john

[jbwelda]

shell to the body?

can you be more specific? like maybe you mean the body to the chassis?

[Dr. Cranky]

I tend not to just in case I need to get back in there to fix or add something . . .

[foxbat426]

let me clarify - the shell (body) to the chassis.

yes i thought about not gluing it down cranky for that very reason.

Edited November 18, 2011 by foxbat426

[my66s55]

You don't mention which model you are working on. Many of the pre wwII bodies are difficult to attach to their chassis. I have found that silicone works well. It's no problem if you need to take it apart latter and easy to clean up any that seeps to the outside of the body.

[LoneWolf15]

I never do . Virgil hit the nail on the head . This especially holds true for show builds . Stuff happens ! You just might need to go back in to replace an interior piece , replace the glass , maybe to add a part that you inadvertently left out the first time around . Tough to do if it's all glued together !

[Ben]

This is probably a "too late" type of thing but, if I'm going to glue a body permanently to the chassis and the contact points are not very accessible, I add my own body mounts (before painting) in an area to where they contact the chassis in an "easy to get too" location. This way, I can carefully place the body onto the chassis and then carefully pull the body up just enough to put some glue on the body mounts. Position the body back in place and let the glue dry. You can use Plastruct "L" channel cut into small pieces or strip stock, whatever works best. This can also help in situations where the body doesn't sit right on the chassis, straight out of the box.

[philo426]

most of the time the body fits tightly to the chassis so no glue is necessary.On the rare occasion when this is not the case I use 2-part epoxy in contact areas and it does the trick.Works great for bumpers also!

[Greg Pugh]

For those of you that don't glue your bodies to the chassis........what happens when it's being judged at a show? Doesn't it come apart? I'd be afraid that I'd have my car scattered all over the table or......(even worse) the floor.

[62rebel]

i've been using the Testor's windshield cement for this; but most of the time the chassis is a pretty snug fit as is. even when i've cemented the joint with Testor's red tube, i can still get it disassembled fairly easily if need be.

i'm leery of using a hot glue gun around styrene, personally...

and i have used Elmer's Carpenter's glue for installing glass and subassemblies together. i got away from epoxy because it, like CA, is unforgiving of misaligned parts.

[The Creative Explorer]

I judge it per project, some cars dont need to be glued. But some kits are sooooo bad, they have to be glued. If possible, I do glue the model, also has to do with handling the car. I've seen contest judges who grab the car to judge, and to prevent it from falling out of the body, I glue them.

[935k3]

I never glue bodies on. I always devise a mechanical way that locks the body on by using various pieces of Evergreen plastic to make tabs and locking mechanisms. It's more secure and no glue worries and it can be taken apart if need be.

Edited November 20, 2011 by 935k3

[Jantrix]

I always do. I use just enough glue to get the job done. I do a few contests so it needs to be sturdy for the traveling. Not to mention being handled at the tables by me at the very least.