How do i fix this bleed through?

[Haubenschild]

[935k3]

go to the cosmetic dept at Walmart and look for the small pointed Q-tips and use some polish and polish it off.

[Haubenschild]

Thank you for the quick response!

[highway]

Also, next time (doesn't do much good now but for future reference) try spraying a coat of clear after you have masked the first color but before you spray the second. I haven't tried it yet, but I seen that tip on Spike TV's "Musclecar", and the clear is supposed to seal the tape edge to prevent the bleed under.

[High octane]

Also, next time (doesn't do much good now but for future reference) try spraying a coat of clear after you have masked the first color but before you spray the second. I haven't tried it yet, but I seen that tip on Spike TV's "Musclecar", and the clear is supposed to seal the tape edge to prevent the bleed under.

Matt is right as when you spray a light coat of clear along the tape edge before your second color, it will bleed clear if at all. Wait 20 minutes and then spray your second color.

[Haubenschild]

i did clear coat before i painted the second colour , maybe the clear didnt stick to some of the edges, or maybe it was because of my masking

[crazyjim]

Those pointed q-tips are make-up applicators. Gotta look around the make-up and not medical stuff. They also work very nicely when applying and buffing BMF.

[scalenut]

also a good sharp edge'd clean tape makes a difference , avoid the stuff that is laying on the workbench getting nicked up and fuzzed edges from dust and debris.

couple that with a fine mist of clear as mentioned.

I like to seal with matt clear ,I've noticed it goes on the thinner and flashes off quicker than gloss clear.

[Haubenschild]

thanks for all the tips guy's it really helps alot!

[DavidChampagne]

What about when you remove the tape? Just peel it off? Or. Do you need to run a Knife along the tape first?

I am planning a major tape and paint job on my Tommy Ivo FED, (1/16)

[Nick Winter]

Also, next time (doesn't do much good now but for future reference) try spraying a coat of clear after you have masked the first color but before you spray the second. I haven't tried it yet, but I seen that tip on Spike TV's "Musclecar", and the clear is supposed to seal the tape edge to prevent the bleed under.

Matt and Nick are correct, I did this when I painted these white stripes lastnight, Taped them, sprayed them with clear, sprayed with a bit of white primer, sprayed color coat (white), when dry I took my knife and ran around the edges, then peeled the tape.

Nick

[Haubenschild]

Thank you guys once again

[scalenut]

I peel it off before it drys, it lets the edge kind of blend down

but its a bit more risky to handle this way

[Dave Ambrose]

Even if you clear, you have to ensure that the tape is tight on the model. I use a Q-tip shaft that I cut diagonally with a pair of wire cutters. I then use that to burnish the tape edges to make sure they're adhered to the model.

[Jantrix]

I have had good luck, lightly sanding overspray away with water and some 3600 grit sand paper.

[Art Anderson]

Three things:

First of all, really FRESH masking tape! And along the same line, go right past the cheap stuff, go with good quality tape, such as 3M. It also helps if you buy the masking tape at a paint store, or a store specializing in professional autobody supplies. From all appearances, your masking tape did not stick down tightly, letting "overspray" underneath (bleed-under doesn't look fuzzy like that).

Second, a clean, sharp edge to the tape. I always start by laying masking tape down on a clean piece of glass, then using a stainless steel rule and a NEW #11 Xacto blade, I cut a straight edge on the tape, then cut a strip about 1/8" wide, which I then use to mask the edge between the two colors. I then simply mask the remaining area to be protected with more tape.

Third, I burnish the edge of the mask down tightly (this is where good quality masking tape that is fresh (not setting on the shelf someplace for months) makes it. I find my best tool for this is a fingernail, as I can control just where I need the pressure. Masking tapes are all made pretty much like crepe paper, slightly wrinkled, so they will smooth down enough for the adhesive to stick, make a tight seal against the surface. If you feel it necessary to "seal" that edge with some clear, which I have done, I use a small detail brush, and brush some clear (which I decant from the rattle can into the can lid) and brush a thin line of that onto the edge of the masking tape, and let it dry (only takes a few minutes.

Art

[Haubenschild]

Thanks art , i should of changed the title , i sound like a fool

[Casey]

If I were you, I would break out the polishing papers and remove the blue overspray from the white area. That's not a huge area, and if you're going to clear coat the entire body anyway, you should be able to wet sand the overspray right off. DO NOT use any liquid polish at this stage, though, only very fine polishing cloths/paper.

[Haubenschild]

try switching to 3M's orange core "safe release" blue masking tape too. it's not textured like most masking tapes are and it doesn't have an aggressive adhesive so it's nicer to use for models.

keeping your roll of tape bagged in a Ziploc freezer bag helps keep it clean too so you don't have the fuzzy edge from lint and dust collecting

i Have some , i used tamiya tape to mask off the edges , next time i will try the 3m , and thanks for the tip