Do You Paint What You Don't See On a Model?

[Dr. Cranky]

LOL!

[Olskoolrodder]

Thanks!

I really, REALLY wish that I had bought more of those lifts while they were still available...

It was from GMP, and for the past few years now, all they have is the lift for 1/18th scale. AFAIK, the 1/24th scale one is looooong discontinued.

YW I know the lifts you speak of. Never had one,but I did have a complete set of garage tools incuding a 1:24 lift a couple-few years ago,didn't wanna fiddle with building em,so I sent em to a friend on the other side of the land to build em for me (payment included) and the only time they's been mentioned since has been "Well,I haven't gotten to it yet...I might just send em back to ya" ....but otherwise he's a great friend I appreciate having so I never said anything. Besides,I know I certainly get out of the mood and put stuff off (yes,even for a couple-few years ) and one day he'll do em up and send em (had he already done it,they'd have burned in the house fire back in June anyways,LOL!)

[Greg Myers]

I always worry about my headliners and since I've started using Donn Yost's pipe nipple painting stand, I always end up with un painted circle there, so I come back and paint or upholster the headliner.

OK ?Once again, What is a "Donn Youst's pipe nipple painting stand " ?

[Tony T]

Piece of metal pipe, fits inside roof of model, masking tape sticky-side-up on top. Hold to paint model, then stand it up to dry.

[Greg Myers]

better than this ?

[LoneWolf15]

OK ?Once again, What is a "Donn Youst's pipe nipple painting stand " ?

A Donn Yost paint stand consists of either a 1/2 or 3/4 diameter black iron pipe nipple , preferably 6 inchs in length , with masking tape , sticky side up , wrapped in place on top .

Simply push the body down on it , now you have a hand held paint stand , with the ability to rotate it. 360 degrees by simply turning your wrist . I use various lengths and diameters to suit my needs , parts wise !

After painting , slide the stand into your cabinet !

That is a Donn Yost paint stand !

[Chuck Most]

A Chuck Most paint stand is highly elaborate- it is an old can of junk dollar store spray paint with the lid still snapped on. Slip the body over the cap and you have a makeshift 'turntable' style spraying stand.

I do like this Donn Yost stand better, at least in concept, and am thinking of giving it a go, though.

[Swifster]

I don't paint the undersides. I will try to color match as necessary around the rockers, wheel wells, etc, so that nothing appears unpainted. But in the unlikely chance someone may wish to see the underside, maybe I need add some little comments, or attach little gifts or treasures to be found.

[JustBill]

I don't paint the undersides. I will try to color match as necessary around the rockers, wheel wells, etc, so that nothing appears unpainted. But in the unlikely chance someone may wish to see the underside, maybe I need add some little comments, or attach little gifts or treasures to be found.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: That's great!!! I almost spit up the water I was drinking!!!

[JustBill]

A Chuck Most paint stand is highly elaborate- it is an old can of junk dollar store spray paint with the lid still snapped on. Slip the body over the cap and you have a makeshift 'turntable' style spraying stand.

I do the same thing only wrap the cap with tape sticky side out. Same concept as what Don's stand is.

[Chuck Most]

I do the same thing only wrap the cap with tape sticky side out. Same concept as what Don's stand is.

If the body 'hugs' the lid tightly enough, you usually don't even need tape. I have had a few fall off- never fun, so whenever I'm in doubt about the stability of the body on my makeshift stand, out comes the tape.

[Tom Setzer]

I use ICB Rootbeer bottles for body stands while painting, they work great!

[highway]

I prefer the Highway Hanger paint stand myself, just a simple metal coathanger bent in half and the tips spread close enough together to fit inside the body but just far enough apart to have tension to hold the body in place. Add a little masking tape to the ends and tape the tips of the hanger to the inside of the body and spray away. All that never gets painted inside the body are the small contact areas where the coathanger touches or a little larger area where the tape is if I use the masking tape as added security. After painting, I simply hang the hanger from the knobs of my hutch of my workbench or somewhere else where the hanger can hang freely without touching anything and let dry. This also, 99.9% of the time, hangs the wet paint upside down, so there is little chance of dust or little flying critters ending up in the paint. The best part of my method is it costs nothing if you were like me and work at a place that cleans your work uniform for you, and you're guaranteed of at least getting five new hangers to add to your collection each week!!

Oh, and as for the unpainted areas left behind, I don't worry about them. I know they're there, and it just doesn't bother me. It's not going to keep me up at night to know there is a small area like this (seen just under the roof line) :

or that the underneath of these seats:

aren't painted. I know that once they are in place, nobody will ever see those areas of those parts again, including me, and aren't worth the extra time or the waste of paint!

[greymack]

God we all need help isn't there a group for model addicts?

[Chuck Most]

God we all need help isn't there a group for model addicts?

There is, and I think you found it.

[Terror]

I almost always leave one part unpainted ,superstition I guess.

[Casey]

I do confess to spraying parts while still on the sprue, then touching up areas left bare once they're cut free. A lot of people have told me I shouldn't do this, but so far, none of them have told me a good reason WHY I shouldn't.

There are exceptions- if a part has an unusually large or thick runner, or if there is a lot of flash on the part itself, or a heavy mold seam. I do what George does took, except instead of foam I use a large square slab of balsa wood.

I try to follow the "treat every part as if it were a model unto itself" credo, which to me means make each individual part which comprises a completed model as nice as you reasonably can. If there are mold seams on it which aren't on the 1:1 part, remove them. If the part would look better finished after removing it from the sprue, do just that. Some tiny parts (say the ignition coil in Revell's '69 Camaro kits) are difficult to do this way, but you can always figure out a way to make it work, or touch it up in a way that isn't noticeable (like repainting the entire bottom end of the coil) after the part is finish mounted. I can think of no parts other than a cast iron type cast exhaust manifold which would look more realistic with the mold seam left in place, and that's assuming the part was laid out such that the scale mold seam matched the 1:1 part's mold seam.

As far as painting areas which will never bee seen, such as the inside of a trunk, I see no good reason to do that, but to each their own. I'm sure we could all use the time, materials and energy spent on things other builders see as wasteful or unnecessary on our own models to improve something on theirs.

[Nick Notarangelo]

God we all need help isn't there a group for model addicts?

Welcome to the first annual AMA "American Model Addicts"

[Tony T]

More like GMA "Global Model Addicts"!

[Dr. Cranky]

I like GLOBAL ADDICTS OF STYRENE, this way it comes to simply G.A.S.!

Having tried almost every single paint stand available out there, including my own usual chopstix with two sided tape, which I still use for all sorts of good painting solutions, I like Donn's pipe nipple stand because, as he says, you can turn the sucker in any direction.

When you are done, you put it down and don't have to worry about the model falling off or tipping over. If you are worried about that, the flange for the pipe then is very useful.

[Foxer]

The link doesn't work for me anyhow...but does the URL description explain it enough?

I doesn't work for me either now. The pipe stand is just a short length of pipe ideally with a flange screwed on so it stands vertical. Pipe side is around 1.5" I believe. Wrap masking tape over top and around sides to hold it. the undersid eof roof will stick to it and you can turn as you paint holding in one hand. I believe one of the videos Cranky posted in this thread above shows one.

Edit: I just came upon a couple photos Cranky posted in another thread that show a body on a couple of Don's Pipe Nipple stands. Look for the green Nova at the top of the page ... http://www.modelcars...40

Edited December 6, 2011 by Foxer

[Greg Myers]

I doesn't work for me either now. The pipe stand is just a short length of pipe ideally with a flange screwed on so it stands vertical. Pipe side is around 1.5" I believe. Wrap masking tape over top and around sides to hold it. the undersid eof roof will stick to it and you can turn as you paint holding in one hand. I believe one of the videos Cranky posted in this thread above shows one.

Edit: I just came upon a couple photos Cranky posted in another thread that show a body on a couple of Don's Pipe Nipple stands. Look for the green Nova at the top of the page ... http://www.modelcars...40

An Ahha moment

[Dr. Cranky]

There is, and I think you found it.

EXACTLY what I was going to say!

[Greg Myers]

off to the hardware store

[scalenut]

If I'm spraying a part on a stick or stand , I'll usually go ahead and paint it all simply because it's in my hand and I'm spraying it.

on bodys I will spray the whole inside(if it's a different color) and let it dry, than mask and spray the outside.

I need to make a homebrew version of the Yost stick, I have lots of wood and dowels laying around