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Has anyone tried DupliColors Paint Shop Finish System?


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There is no reason why one can't use the stuff (lacquer) on styrene plastic model bodies--I and a number of others on these forums have been doing just that for years. In fact, MCW Automotive finishes has been packaging 1-oz bottles of pre-thinned acrylic lacquer for going on 25yrs, and a lot of modelers have achieved great results with the stuff as well. For best results, it does take a decent airbrush, and a good primer that will allow a bit of "frosting" of the plastic surface while not causing deep crazing, followed by the color coats.

All that said, I wonder how cost-effective this Duplicolor paint line would be when considering a model car body though. It's shown as being packaged in 32-oz cans, and 32 fluid ounces is a QUART, and at that, it will need to be thinned in order to be airbrushed. Sounds like overkill to me.

Art

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Thanks for the reply Art. I was wondering about the thinning as well. I just took another look at the page, and saw this

  • Pre-reduced, ready-to-spray lacquer
  • No mixing or reducing required
  • Easy to apply and dries quickly
  • No recoat window, reapply at any time

I cant see myself buying a can of their color coats, but they do have cans of clear, and clear with metal flake. Two of their colors did catch my eye though, Candy Apple Green and Sublime Green pearl. I may try those down the line, when I have the $50 to justify spending on 2 cans of CC,.

Edited by Evil Appetite
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Thanks for the reply Art. I was wondering about the thinning as well. I just took another look at the page, and saw this

  • Pre-reduced, ready-to-spray lacquer
  • No mixing or reducing required
  • Easy to apply and dries quickly
  • No recoat window, reapply at any time

I cant see myself buying a can of their color coats, but they do have cans of clear, and clear with metal flake. Two of their colors did catch my eye though, Candy Apple Green and Sublime Green pearl. I may try those down the line, when I have the $50 to justify spending on 2 cans of CC,.

I suspect I could guarrantee you that you'd have to use additional thinner to make the stuff airbrush--airbrushes require a much thinner viscosity in order to spray properly than does any production spray gun (like are used in auto body shops) though.

Art

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I suspect I could guarrantee you that you'd have to use additional thinner to make the stuff airbrush--airbrushes require a much thinner viscosity in order to spray properly than does any production spray gun (like are used in auto body shops) though.

Art

Hmmm...you're probably right. I'm eventually going to buy a can of the metallic clear. If it's too thick for airbrushing, I can always go to tool town and buy a spray gun. At $20 -30 bucks, they're inexpensive enough there.

For me it makes sense. I have to decant my Duplicolor clear, as my arthritic hands make cans any larger than a Tamiya/Testors size difficult to hold and spray. At $15 for a can of spray vs $25 for a can of clear that I wont have to decant . Ill pay the extra bucks to ensure my hands don't stop working on me before I'm ready to stop myself.

As I said earlier, I'm sure you're right about it being too thick for an AB, but either way, I'll let you know.

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I have started using Scalefinishes paints. Most are acrylic enamel, gloss paints. It is not recommended to paint over bare plastic but they do not require a lacquer primer. I have painted over a previous Testor's enamel paint and gotten perfect results. They come pre-thinned and are the original paint codes as this is regular automotive paint.

Great service as well. They can be purchsed online and are well worth a try. My next project is a '52 Hudson stock car racer with two tone colors. Scalefinishes has the correct paints for the Hudsons as well.

BTW, I have tried almost all types of paints over the years and always end up with the enamels being the easiet to deal with.

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If I remember correctly, this paint was developed to give the DIY market some easy to use paints for small jobs. Because these paints are pre-thinned and pretty much "ready to go" out of the can, the premise is that the guess work of mixing paint is taken care of and one could get decent results. I think they painted a Chevy C1500 on an episode of Truck U with this paint.

I agree that a quart will paint quite a few model car bodies but if you find a color and a few friends, you may be able to divide the cost and paint up rather easily. The idea of the clear makes sense, might have to look into it. Definitely would need a spray booth and a new respirator though.

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I've sprayed it a bunch; and it works just fine from both HVLP and airbrush....right from the can. The color choices are limited; but they are mostly stock (standard) colors you can use all the time; so it's worth the pop if you paint from a gun all of the time. For the guys that build 1/25 all the time it might seem like a lifetime supply of color; but when you build big stuff all the time, it does go pretty quickly...........Matt

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I've used it as well. It sprays very well right out of the can. I actually used the Norbie Method on a 1:1 bumper with it on my '55 Chevy, using a TSC Farmhand gravity feed spray gun . As Art mentions, you might want to reduce it a bit for airbrushing, when I tried the clear to test it, the results were a bit on the grainy side. I partly blame that on the HF airbrush I was using. One that can use a larger tip may work better. I didn't notice any crazing or adverse effects in my test (.020" Evergreen sheet), with one exeption. Over Duplcolor, Tamiya, and Testors spray can laquer primers, topcoated with both Tamiya and Testors laquer paints, there was no issues. The only test peices that did anything odd were the 2 based with Duplicolor self etching primer. Both of those curled up. Not bad, only enough to be notiable. On a rigid body, I don't see where it would be a problem.

BTW, if you have an Advance Auto or O'Reillys in your area, the sometimes have the Paint Shop products on sale. I picked up Black, Gloss Clear, and Matte Clear at AA for about $16.50 a quart.

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I suspect I could guarrantee you that you'd have to use additional thinner to make the stuff airbrush--airbrushes require a much thinner viscosity in order to spray properly than does any production spray gun (like are used in auto body shops) though.

Art

I have some o this paint but I haven't tried it yet. It is pretty thin as i opened a can to just look at it. i don't think it will need to be thinned. I wouldn't have bought what i have but advance auto had it clearanced for $7 a quart

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"I have to decant my Duplicolor clear, as my arthritic hands make cans any larger than a Tamiya/Testors size difficult to hold and spray."

Get one of the many holders that snap on top of a can,large or small and make it like a spray gun. I've been doing that with 12OZ. cans of primer and it works great.

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"I have to decant my Duplicolor clear, as my arthritic hands make cans any larger than a Tamiya/Testors size difficult to hold and spray."

Get one of the many holders that snap on top of a can,large or small and make it like a spray gun. I've been doing that with 12OZ. cans of primer and it works great.

I do use those, I have a few of them. i've found though that occasionally, usually with my Duplicolor cans, that the spray doesn't clear the spray gun, causing it to spit from time to time or collect in and around the cans reservoir. I do use it for my hobby paint.

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I've used it on some 1:1 projects- about all you need to do is strain it before running it through a spray gun. It doesn't say you have to, but I have a habit of straining all paints before spraying them. You probably would have to thin it to use in an airbrush. It's pretty good stuff, especially for the price- the local Advance sells it for just under $23 a quart.

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I bought a can of the clear about a year ago and even though it sprayed well without any thinning needed I wasn't impressed with it at all. I sprayed at least three coats on a test body and I couldn't see any buildup or shine at all. Wasn't happy with the results so the can sits on the shelf never having been touched again.

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