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Posted

I don't remember who mentioned it.....but now I'm noticing how much I see them...now it bugs me. :unsure:

This is a good thing....I joined this forum to learn, so I can improve my work, this is my first attempt at rectifying this obscurity.

I used spare parts from an old detail master kit.

I will be trying the masking tape trick to simulate a fan belt once I sand the plastic belt off the pulleys. B)

68GTO003.jpg

68GTO006.jpg

Posted

Now I am noticing how unrealistic that bracket looks :D

The top bracket looks fine, as one bracket should be slotted for adjustment, but the rectangular block sandwiched between the brackets and cylinder head(?) looks totally out of place.

Is that the Pontiac engine from a Monogram kit?

The problem with adding these brackets is that most are specific to the engine and specific options the vehicle has- A/C. air pump, etc. You also have to trust that the cylinder heads are positioned and/or molded in place correctly so that when you attach the scale bracket to the scale engine, the pulley offests are correct.

Posted

Alternator and accessory brackets do improve the look of the pulley system greatly - and ANY (well, within reason I guess) looks better than the "floater".

I agree that the block looks a little odd. It will be somewhat hidden on the completed engine. On Pontiac (I think this a 455???), the alternator bracket is attached to a couple bolts on the water pump and I think it is one piece bracket (depending on model) - one arm goes to the top with the elongated hole for adjusting tension, the other arm goes to the bolt location on the bottom of the alt.

They are not easy to make and sometimes even difficult just to research if you don't have a 1:1 sitting around as most people don't focus shots on the fan belts.

Posted

That looks 1,000% better than a "floating alternator" that keeps the drive belt under tension by magic!

I couldn't agree more, I know I've only just gotten back into the hobby and have only built one with an engine so far, but I have seen some with the floating problem and it just doesn't look right...

Posted (edited)

It's a 68 GTO.......spacing the bracket was awkward because of the alternator being so far out from the engine block.

The use of the block was to make up for a pretty big gap.

I'm sure I'll get better at it with practise. :)

Edited by tim_g
Posted

I think Model Car Garage had a photo etch fret with brackets at one time. Does anybody remember what part number it was? It does not seem to be on the website anymore.

joe.

Posted (edited)

The top arm is held in place by one of the water pumps bolts usuallt but nobody will notice once the water pump pulley is on. Oh and also for anybody building a chrysler motor, the alternator is held on with one long bolt that threads thru the alternator and right into one of the heads. The alternator pivots on this bolt. One arm is used to adjust the tension at the top. What I do is drill a hole in the alternator and glue a piece of stiff wire into it and drill a hole also for the block super easy. Small block cheverlots much more complex

Edited by sak
Posted

I already have the carb kit..............just wanted to see if someone has all ready done it........and how it looked?

Posted

Lol!

Glad I'm not the only one who thinks kit alternators defy the laws of physics!

I've used those DM brackets. They might not be 100% correct on my builds, but to the casual observer, they look alright, which is good enough, especially as I'm the only one who knows they are there.

You look like you've nailed it with your solution.

Posted

Lol!

Glad I'm not the only one who thinks kit alternators defy the laws of physics!

I've used those DM brackets. They might not be 100% correct on my builds, but to the casual observer, they look alright, which is good enough, especially as I'm the only one who knows they are there.

You look like you've nailed it with your solution.

Thanks :)

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