1/16th Promod Duster

[jmpsebring]

I spent the money, I have most of the parts, I'm starting the 2012 promod racing season. Someone's gotta battle all these up-coming Camaros. Actually, I would be building a Camaro too if this wasn't around. I'm starting with a Revelloution body because it looks pretty close to Andy McCoy's Duster design. The chassis will be brass, the motor is still a question. Most of the builds here take a long time. I'm thankful that many have paved the way allowing all of us to pick up and copy their ideas. Also.... no way would I be building (buying) a 1/16th high detail drag car, if it wasn't for the list of guys well known by builders here. This is 98% $$$ after market model building. So I would like to thank my ex. She has made all of this possible. Let the frames begin!

[tyrone]

I'll be tuned in for this one,,,, good luck battling the Camaros....lol...

[jmpsebring]

I don't really use drawings, but I've always built frames that fit tight against the body by building inside the body. At least the first part of the frame. So I'm cutting 3/32" rod to lay down along the a-pillars. I'm just barely tacking them in place with super glue. It's gonna look a lttle strange, but it will fit well when it's done.

This is where and why I'm going with the plastic (or printed) body. It's all the same thickness. If you going full detail, right away you need to battle the uneven thickness of the best resin bodies. I think they are perfect for every thing except these kind of builds. Unless of couse you spend the time grinding.

[Dragracer]

I pretty much started the same thing a little while ago, only I'm using the 1/25th scale Revellution body & I'm keeping it as a Dodge Demon, I got some of the bodywork done, moving the front wheelwells back to make it a 115" wheelbase instead of the 125" of the F/C, I put it on hold for a while I work on 2 ADRL P/N cars. I have the pics on my Photo Album on Facebook & I'll be posting them here in a few days.

[eviltwincustoms]

I really like that duster, I wish I wasn't working on so many different projects I would add that one to my list as well.

You say you don't like to use Drawings, but I sure hope you are using some sort of Reference Photo's especially since this is your first Pro Mod build. Just free handing away may not be the best way of building one, since you are going to the expense of using brass.

Are you just starting out on the Chassis and you happened to just start with the Windshield/A-Pillars? If so, that is kind of an odd place to pick a starting point. Usually you want to start with the main floor shape (Pics of an actual 70 Duster Pro Mod build up):

Then build up the Main HOOP:

Then move forward into the A-Pillars. Most chassis builders will make the A-Pillar all one piece running from the main hoop to the front. Here is a Pic to show what I am referring to.

Some will even go as far as to build out the floor first then go up with the main hoop, and then put in the cross braces last so you have room to put all the interior details.

[Mooneyzs]

Jack... I will be following along with this build for sure man. This duster is going to be awesome, I can't wait to see it come alive. I know you are going to do an awesome job on it. I really need to start my Pro Mod build like the rest of you guys. I already have my Kit I will be starting out with and I have picked up some parts from TDR as well as having Jim at Micro Nitro turn up some parts for me. So I am acquiring parts so I have them and ready to put into the build but I have to finish up my Funny Car build before I think of starting this Pro Mod.

[Prostreet]

Can't wait to see what you do with this Jack, will definitely following along. We can line them up when your done lol.

[jmpsebring]

I know it's a strange way to do things, but I'm doing what the pictures are doing Bart... but I don't fit inside the setup table. I determined where the bottom rear bar would be, and glued it in place. Then I placed the roll bar right up to the roof and mark the bottom of the tubes where they cross the plane of the floor(minus 3/32" to rest on top of the bar. They were cut to length and then attached to the bottom(top) bar. With that angle set and knowing I am right at the top and bottom of the body, I can lock the front and back angles together forever. I soldered four temp runners from the front to the back . They are in the center to keep heat away from the body. Once they were installed, I quickly as possible connected the windshield parts with a touch of solder. I then popped out the whole thing.....and there you go! a completed frame!!

[jmpsebring]

So here is the front /rear sections that will fit the body "perfectly" . Now I will solder the real top roof tubes to connect the front and rear together.

[jmpsebring]

I've cut one bar to length and soldered it in place. As a serious slot car racer, I have a Hako 936 soldering iron. Great iron! I'm using "lucky Bob's" soldering acid. This is what we use to solder pinions to a motor shafts. It works so fast and well, it ends up needing way less time...therefore way less heat to work. This is the magic stuff that makes this way easier than cutting plastic. The solder simply blends around the joint. Seconds later, it's dry and strong. Plus at any time , I can come back and move to bar if needed . once both sides were soldered together, I unsoldered the runners.

Edited March 22, 2012 by jmpsebring

[jmpsebring]

The last step was to put the frame back in the body to double check and then solder a temp front "stand" to set front frame height. I soldered the tube to the center and let it stick out past the floor of the body. Laid a ruler flat across the floor to establish where the runner should be trimmed to. Cut off the extra...and poped out the frame a there it it is. Best of all, the frame pretty much locks into place because it fits so well. Next I will do the outide bars, then connect the A-pillars to them.

[Dyno Davo]

Nice workmanship Jack. Nice to see a Mopar getting the ProMod treatment.

[jmpsebring]

I have in fact spent 100s of hours looking at everything Promod for the last month. Having said that, I'm more the closet engineer than a builder of models. I build to pretend I'm designing my own stuff most of the time. This frame is no different. I know that i prefer the style of the front rear hoops to be at an angle instead of vertical. Plus while there are things all these frames have in common, there are also many different designs out there too. I did notice that many of the tubes running besides the Lenco's tapered in towards the rear.

I'm using tubes to the firewall in order to remove the front section while building. Plus it allows a final length adjustment just in case all this 'perfection' ends up being too short or too long ! Once I got this out of the car again, I placed it back on the graph paper and did in fact adjust a couple of the angles. Again , because I soldered everything together, it took only a few minutes to make adjustments. One important note was the use of rod instead of tubing when possible. Tubing is hard to solder the final 'end' closed. the air inside blows the solder away. If using tube I have to cut a vent hole when closing both ends up to allow air to escape.

One good side effect was the melting of the plastic at the rear bar. It allows the body to go back into place time after time. Repeatability is so important when prototyping any car..any scale. I had to start with this bar in place to spread the rear roll -under part of the body out a little. It gives the body a touch more modern look .

[jmpsebring]

I need some more tri angle shaped plastic to make my bottom edge of the body. That's why the body's bottom edge is uneven. The closest Hobby shop is a hour away. It will have to wait.

Thanks everyone for the replys. Bart, your build is awsome. Thanks for the photos. It was all of you that had me drop a major project and start building dragcars again. (that's my story anyway.) this is what I was building. It's a Lotus 77 transkit from Model Factory Hiro in 1/12th along with a scooter for cruising the paddock area.

[stump]

Hey Jack, this is one kooooool project mate. Would never have thought about converting an old Funny body.

And I can understand the point of view by building upside down, so to say.....it's a good way to make sure it all tucks in for sure.

And the project you stopped for this one......Looking very nice too.

Subscribed.

[Romell R]

im gonna join in the fun here too thanks for sharing Jack and keep up the excellent work!

[Jantrix]

Wow. That's looking awesome.

[jmpsebring]

A few more bars in place. That's enough for one days work...I need to dig out. I can really trash a workspace table.

[Romell R]

Good job! Cant wait to see more,

[Romell R]

this is what I was building. It's a Lotus 77 transkit from Model Factory Hiro in 1/12th along with a scooter for cruising the paddock area.

This looks like its gonna be an awesome build would love to see more of it.

[futurattraction]

That's coming along great, Jack. You've got an excellent idea by building upside down. Fitting the roll cage into the roof as tightly as possible is a real trick but you've got that handled no sweat! Sweet build so far...

[Mooneyzs]

Jack... this is looking superb my friend. Very nice work on this so far. going to be a great build.

[Mister Twister]

You're off to a real nice start....I' ll be watching to see this come together.

Edited March 23, 2012 by Mister Twister

[Prostreet]

Looks great so far Jim, One suggestion. Your upper roof bars, You may want them to be more straight and square with the tops of the windows otherwise it may throw off The funny car cage part.

[jmpsebring]

Day two and more bars