1/16th 69 Camaro ProMod 7/22/14 motor painted

[Romell R]

Hey thanks fellas for all the positive support .....I was able to get a lil work done on the motor today, I made a valve cover and it only took me 4 hours LOL! anyway I hope you enjoy.

mounted on the head

Thats all folks! Cya again real soon......

Edited May 23, 2012 by Romell R

[comp1839]

lookin' awesome there romell. keep at it!!!

[W-409]

It looks very good, I like the engine. It may look bit rough now for someone's eye, but I know that since I've been working with same methods and I've built one Tube Frame and rear frame from brass. Once primered, everything looks so smooth and much nicer. I can't wait to see for more.

[Romell R]

lookin' awesome there romell. keep at it!!!

Thanks Dave, a lil here, a lil there....well you know how it works LOL! I will do just that, keep at it.

[Danno]

Great looking valve cover, Rom! This whole project is very impressive!

[Dragracer]

Just keeps on ticking!, lookin' good Rom!

[Casey]

Thats a great Idea!!!

You probably will not want to have cured, expanding foam meeting liquid mold rubber. The rubber will seep into the foam's pores and at the very least, your molds will be heavily damaged when you attempt to remove the parts. Think about the foam and rubber meeting (and bonding) in every depression, cylinder bore, water jacket, etc.

Do you plan to make the second engine out of brass, too? I don't envy all the sanding and polishing you'll need to do to make the parts smooth enough to cast, especially in between and around the runners on the tunnel ram. You might also consider making the tunnel ram as two pieces instead of one so it's easier to cast.

Is there a specific reason you used tubing instead of rod stock to make the crank journals?

[Romell R]

You probably will not want to have cured, expanding foam meeting liquid mold rubber. The rubber will seep into the foam's pores and at the very least, your molds will be heavily damaged when you attempt to remove the parts. Think about the foam and rubber meeting (and bonding) in every depression, cylinder bore, water jacket, etc.

Do you plan to make the second engine out of brass, too? I don't envy all the sanding and polishing you'll need to do to make the parts smooth enough to cast, especially in between and around the runners on the tunnel ram. You might also consider making the tunnel ram as two pieces instead of one so it's easier to cast.

Is there a specific reason you used tubing instead of rod stock to make the crank journals?

.Thanks for the insight on the casting , I will take it all into consideration. Im no longer making a second motor. And the sanding and polishing is the easy part when you have the right tools. The reason I used tube instead of rod is because tube heats faster than solid rod does therefore I can solder a part on faster and not have to worry about over heating or heat spread and other parts comming apart.

[comp1839]

whether you guys know it or not. the cranks in these motors have hollow rod rournals and hollow mains. so the piece you modelled, romell, is actually quite accurate.

Edited May 23, 2012 by comp1839

[tyrone]

NOW THATS A BIG CRANK THERE...

[Romell R]

whether you guys know it or not. the cranks in these motors have hollow rod rournals and hollow mains. so the piece you modelled, romell, is actually quite accurate.

Thanks Dave good to know I was accurate with that piece, its always good to have guys around who know thier stuff. Edited May 23, 2012 by Romell R

[Mooneyzs]

Rom... awesome work on the Valve covers man... You just keep trucking along with this project.... Looking sweet man. looking forward to more pics!

[Casey]

]The reason I used tube instead of rod is because tube heats faster than solid rod does therefore I can solder a part on faster and not have to worry about over heating or heat spread and other parts comming apart.

Ah, that makes sense.

Are you no longer planning to make copies of the engine?

whether you guys know it or not. the cranks in these motors have hollow rod rournals and hollow mains. so the piece you modelled, romell, is actually quite accurate.

Yes, it is, but just to clarify, my comment was made in regards to Romell planning to cast copies of the engine parts, as those hollow passages would be very difficult to pull off with traditional rubber molds. If he's no longer doing that, nevermind...

[Romell R]

Are you no longer planning to make copies of the engine?

Yes i'm going to make copies but the man handling the molds for me will deal with filling the parts so now I don't have to make two separate masters.

[vintagedragfan]

the cranks are hollow because its all about weight and less rotating mass I am guessing, and tubing is stronger than a soild rod in most cases, great work Rom!

[Kanedge]

So will this run when finished? Cant see any reason why not.

[bobthehobbyguy]

Rom,

Have you stalled out on this? I've was enjoying following this build.

bobthehobbyguy

[Romell R]

Man! I did not mean to be off this project so long , im gonna get back on it as soon as the shop is up and running.

[Mooneyzs]

Rom... it great to hear that you be getting back to this build soon. I have missed seeing progress on it but know you are doing killer work on your 1/8th scale build.

[Dragracer]

Hey Rom!, from what I've seen, the Camaro is looking pretty good , guess I'll have to check out your 1/8th build.

[envious8420]

Looking "real" good there Rom! Waiting on your next progress report.

[EnviXR8]

mate, that is absolutely amazing. Hat's off to you.

[Romell R]

Hey fellas im back on this one and should have pics by tomarrow. Had lots of oxidation that needed to be cleaned up because I didn't prime the parts but a quick soak in white vinegar fixed that. see ya tomarrow.

[Romell R]

Here's a few pics of the cleaned parts

as you can see theres plenty of corrosion in the bath

but the parts cleaned up fairly well after a scrub with a toothbrush

[Dragracer]

Looks great Rom, boy, I bet that suckers gonna be heavy!