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Posted

Flash on a new tool, unacceptable. Obviously a quality issue. On a repop from 20 years ago, I'm just happy to get it. On an out-of production for ages Johan (for instance) kit, I'll put in the extra effort. It's all a matter of degree.

Posted

I think it's a combination.

Sometimes, there is wear in the molds, and that should be addressed. Sometimes, I think there's impromper clamping, poor injection pressure, the plastic is too hot/too cold/too whatever.

When I got my Hornet, while I was very pleased with the quality of the detail of the parts, I was a bit shocked at the amount of flash and the heavy, heavy mold lines on the body and frame. There were a few warped parts, too. On a brand-new tool, especially with all that re-working, I thought it was a bit disheartening to see. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm having a blast building mine, even with those couple of hiccups, but for that tool to have that kind of problem I thought was poor attention to process control at best, and still more problems with the mold at worst.

I think we can do better as an industry. I think Tamiya, from the couple of their kits I have, also has the best molding quality out of all manufacturers. The Volvo 850 wagon I have, and the Jeep Grand Cherokee, for example, have 0 flash.

The Japanese learned long ago the secrets of quality from two Americans- W. Edwards Demming, and Philip Crosby. Perhaps the rest of the industry should begin to learn from them, too.

Some argue quality costs more. Perhaps a little initially, but it pays for itself in saved defects, repeat customers and your reputation.

Charlie Larkin

Posted

I think it's a combination.

Sometimes, there is wear in the molds, and that should be addressed. Sometimes, I think there's impromper clamping, poor injection pressure, the plastic is too hot/too cold/too whatever.

When I got my Hornet, while I was very pleased with the quality of the detail of the parts, I was a bit shocked at the amount of flash and the heavy, heavy mold lines on the body and frame. There were a few warped parts, too. On a brand-new tool, especially with all that re-working, I thought it was a bit disheartening to see. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm having a blast building mine, even with those couple of hiccups, but for that tool to have that kind of problem I thought was poor attention to process control at best, and still more problems with the mold at worst.

I think we can do better as an industry. I think Tamiya, from the couple of their kits I have, also has the best molding quality out of all manufacturers. The Volvo 850 wagon I have, and the Jeep Grand Cherokee, for example, have 0 flash.

The Japanese learned long ago the secrets of quality from two Americans- W. Edwards Demming, and Philip Crosby. Perhaps the rest of the industry should begin to learn from them, too.

Some argue quality costs more. Perhaps a little initially, but it pays for itself in saved defects, repeat customers and your reputation.

Charlie Larkin

Those heavy mold lines were a serious issue--AND Dave Metzner took the factory to task over that, trust me! The Chinese company who does model kits for Moebius is one that both Dave and I have a lot of experience with--to my mind's eye, the first run of the Hudson Club Coupe was an anomaly. Just opened my production kit of the Convertible (bought off the shelf, not my complimentary kit from Moebius) and the body shell in that kit is El Perfecto! Nary a mold alignment problem--in fact this body shell rivals anything done by any model company, anywhere, any day.

Art

Posted

Just opened my production kit of the Convertible (bought off the shelf, not my complimentary kit from Moebius) and the body shell in that kit is El Perfecto! Nary a mold alignment problem--in fact this body shell rivals anything done by any model company, anywhere, any day.

Art

Art this is what I would expect from a brand new tool from 2011/2012 to be . The best I have held in my hands .

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