Looking For Your Thoughts on Mounting Wheels

[FloridaBoy]

Since I build my cars for close inspection, I usually add a working feature and/or a method to get a better look at the interior. So, I open doors, trunks, and even make sunroofs even on sectioned models. I have taught myself over the years to make a quick strong, virtually hidden hinge that allows entry and visual inspection of the insides and trunks.

But my other approach and hang up is much more work. I try to have rolling wheels on all my cars. My older cars just had my wheels glued on and in a fixed state, except for my favorite '40 which I lowered quite a bit, but wanted to ensure the wheels cleared the inside wheel housings. So I used some brass tubing and rod and made mini-axles on the aftermarket wheels and after many many hours they came out ok.

Now, when I glue a wheel on a car, it is only for mock-up and one of my last functions (I am a major procrastinator) is to make the mini rolling wheel contraptions on each axle. My wheels roll independently. But the car does not roll, and you do not push them to prod them along. But the wheels do roll when held, only to demonstrate they do not bind against the wheel housing and to add a minimal and now required level of functionality to my finished cars.

So, guys, what do you do, glue the wheels in place or use the factory applied methods of wheel/tire installation or make your own, I submit to you guys as to me you are the experts in this country. Just take a look at the work under glass or in progress, and the level of the playing field is very high.

I am looking for your opinion and practices.

Thanks in advance,

Spending way too much time on a minor function, but stuck on the inclination.

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

[patrol52]

Most of my cars do not roll, but only due to the fact that most of the factory parts do not work out well for the purpose. My 40 ford however uses a clever mechanism from the 97 corvette model. They have the disc brake rotor as the part that glues to the suspension capturing the inside of the wheel and allowing it to rotate freely. I also have some large diameter wheels from the revell 59 corvette that will roll by a similar piece on my 60 Impala.

[mikelo]

While I usually mount the wheels to the suspension, I do not make mine roll anymore. I have had too many instances where they have rolled off tables, stands and even my 1:1 car (from the roof!). It takes me long enough to build a car once, let alone twice!

I would like to see your plans for your hindges. Always looking for other ways to do that.

Edited October 3, 2007 by mikelo

[Dave in Seattle]

While I usually mount the wheels to the suspension, I do not make mine roll anymore. I have had too many instances where they have rolled off tables, stands and even my 1:1 car (from the roof!). It takes me long enough to build a car once, let alone twice!

I would like to see your plans for your hindges. Always looking for other ways to do that.

I CERTAINLY agree with the "no roller" approach, but mine was born out of a personal experience with an earthquake that cost me a lot of time and effort to repair damage both to models I built as well as an extensive diecast collection. I have pictures, but they are enough to make a grown man cry softly....

[mr moto]

I've moved in the direction of "no roll". It's just the practical thing to do and it doesn't affect how good they look when displayed at all. So far I haven't had any disasters with rolling wheels like some of the other guys but I've gotten close enough to see it coming!

[Zoom Zoom]

I keep things as simple as possible, the majority of my models have the wheels glued into place. It's rare that a model's stance is correct out of the box, so I correct that by attaching brakes to wheels as a sub-assembly, then fitting them to the suspension with the body held in place at the correct ride height. I'm not paranoid if the wheel center isn't the centerline of where the kit mfg. intended. I rarely look at or scrutinize my suspensions; they're merely a vehicle to hold my models off the table. The majority of my models are curbside. Personally if I take too long on a model I often lose interest. As they say, everyone builds to their own level of satisfaction. I think it's great you make the wheels roll in a fairly prototypical way, if that's what makes you happy. Especially if the model doesn't roll on it's own off a desk or display. Working handbrakes might help that

[FloridaBoy]

Appreciate your comments.

I do want to clarify that my wheels turn not roll freely. Even if they roll loosely, I add a slight film of silicone to slow them down. I just want to ensure my wheels do not bind with the inside of the fender, wheel well, and show some operational integrity. I tried adding working lights and found them too gimmicky, and have approached that my models have working features only for a particular function.

Right now, I am struggling with glues and strength, and now using drill holes and pins for maximum strength. It used to kill me to see a great model being touched up on the table by the builder because a piece fell off in transport. Always not the perfect arena to make such a repair.

Our contest on Nov 9-11 will be held at the Deerfield Railraod Museum, which boasts several model railroad layouts, and the cooperation between the two sets of modelers is at an all time high. I am fortunate enough to be member of both clubs, and there is a terrific work area for guys to make repairs with the maximum affordable workspace available to ensure comfortable workmanship. We want to give eveyone a chance.

Learning from those calamities, I try to make my models super strong, even to side mirrors and the such.

Since my available attachment space is taken up, I will try to rectify the situation and start posting pictures of my almost completed work in progress that I will unveil at our November contest. Hope you guys like them.

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

[FloridaBoy]

Appreciate your comments.

I do want to clarify that my wheels turn not roll freely. Even if they roll loosely, I add a slight film of silicone to slow them down. I just want to ensure my wheels do not bind with the inside of the fender, wheel well, and show some operational integrity. I tried adding working lights and found them too gimmicky, and have approached that my models have working features only for a particular function.

Right now, I am struggling with glues and strength, and now using drill holes and pins for maximum strength. It used to kill me to see a great model being touched up on the table by the builder because a piece fell off in transport. Always not the perfect arena to make such a repair.

Our contest on Nov 9-11 will be held at the Deerfield Railraod Museum, which boasts several model railroad layouts, and the cooperation between the two sets of modelers is at an all time high. I am fortunate enough to be member of both clubs, and there is a terrific work area for guys to make repairs with the maximum affordable workspace available to ensure comfortable workmanship. We want to give eveyone a chance.

Learning from those calamities, I try to make my models super strong, even to side mirrors and the such.

Since my available attachment space is taken up, I will try to rectify the situation and start posting pictures of my almost completed work in progress that I will unveil at our November contest. Hope you guys like them.

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

[Jairus]

Opening doors, hoods and trunks are great. All openings should have some sort of hinges or don't bother opening them! There is nothing worse than making a judge or friend feel stupid when he or she picks up the model only to drop the hood when turning the car over to see your "superdetailing"! Right?

So I always add a hinge... and latch if possible.

As for wheels, the first time a car rolled off the detail stand and onto the floor.... that was when I decided to glue the wheels solid!!!! Are we building toys here or "STATIC" scale models? Hmmmmm?

[lordairgtar]

I figure that to obtain the best possible wheel mounting that looks like a real car is all you can do. If the model allows you to make the wheels rotate, that's a bonus. I normally don't make my cars roll because of the accidents others before me have said.

[Modelmartin]

I am usually in the "no roll" camp but on occassion I will engineer the whole thing to roll and steer, etc. just for the "wow" factor on a contest model.

[FloridaBoy]

I am just finishing up 12 models as I prefer to build a bunch at a time rather than just one. After reading your posts, and really appreciate Jarius's input, as I consider him the premier car designer along with Chip Foose in America Today. Thanks for the attention, Jarius. A little memory blog came to me at the last 3 contests. More than one contestant participaing in our contest experienced wheel/tire failure. Even though every guy took great care to pack and transport his models, it seems that wheels are the first thing to break off. And it seems those guys never bring a rescue tool box with basic tools and gluesm then use Borrowed tools and glue to make the repair. And under the pressure of others looking on. he makes a "quick fix" and often glues the wheel on with less than the care he had in the comfort of his home workbench.

So, with that in mind, I took a tiny drill, some brass rod and tubing, and tap a small hole in the axle end, inserting the tube with 2 part expoxy. Then drill a hole in the wheel and insert the brass rod just ever so slightly, then mount the wheel to the axle just by pressing it on. If it is too loose, add a film of silicone and it will turn just like a real wheel with the brake pads providing the minor resistance.

I make very simple and strong hinges out of the same materials, and have had very good success with my models, warping and strength issues are not a factor anymore. I apply hinges to all of my doors and trunks, and do not hinge my hoods, as many of my cars are thirties with droop over hoods, and if hinged will cover the engine. If you want to display the engine, the hood would have to hinge way too much. So I am thinking of making a removable type hinge so the hood can be removed. Same for sunroofs. I do not hinge or slide sunroofs. I just put in a few pieces of plastic underneath to keep them from falling through. When I display my cars at a show, I put the hood and sunroof to the side, so the judge can pick up my car and look around it.

I try to build in enough strength to my models to minimize how fragile they are. I encourage judges to handle my cars, adn when you do pick them up, parts hopefully do not fall off.

I really appreciate all of your input so far, and if you see me at a contest, hopefully we can talk about our models. I have my habits, hangups, opinions, predispositions, and style so recognizable now that my fellow club members can tell my cars on the table. I am trying to break out of these and it is difficult for an older person who is so solid in their ways. I often look at a model kit and try to envision a model that I will build to "break out" and define a new style of mine. Just once, I would love to hear when someone is looking at one of my cars, "I wonder who built that"?

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

[bobss396]

I initially allow them to roll. I build some metal axle (through the OIL PAN sometimes, yeah!) cars which roll very easily. That used to be a sign of a successful build in my early modeling. Those I now "hobble" with a dab of CA glue in the right place.

The one benefit to having them roll, maybe not freely, is to be able to "adjust" the wheels to dial out a tripod condition. This is where one wheel is off the table for some reason, usually with a frankenstein build for me. Take a mix of kit bashed wheels, some resin tires, a home grown chassis and you may wind up with a tripod. If you firmly affix the wheels, they are impossible to adjust out.

If they still can be turned, you have 4 chances to get the car to sit with all 4 wheels on the table.

Bob

[Olle F]

I used to at least try to make them roll, but have started to glue them lately. First, I find it pretty convenient to hide that little spot on the tire or a chromed hub cap where the sprue has been attached by gluing the wheel in a position where it won't show. Much easier and better than trying to touch up, IMO. Second, I dont't play much with my models so the wheels don't really need to turn.

[jbwelda]

i think if you make them roll you need to add extra detail.

like being able to fill them from a mini-compressor. yeah now youre talking scale model.

in other words: no, i glue them, i dont want them rolling around and think it adds absolutely zero to what im trying to do.