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Glue Bomb 32 Ford Is Done


gwolf

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Last night I finished up my month long project of rebuilding an old AMT glue bomb 32 Ford I bought in a lot from my friend Pat. What I learned along the way is this: 1) kitbashing and restoring old kits is a lot of work, but fun as well. 2) I am not a contest builder. I build what I like and how I like and do it for myself and not for a blue ribbon.

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This is what I started with, a box stock, old AMT 5 Window 32 Ford. There was plenty of glue used on this kit. As I began to take it apart, the immense amount of glue used was becoming apparent.

I initially scored and cut off the front fenders and running board with a hobby knife then decided not to use the one piece construction in favor of channeling the body over the frame.

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The existing engine is what I planned to use but was so covered in glue that only the chrome parts could be removed without breaking anything. This engine stopped just before the transmission as it continued as a molded part to the chassis.

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A new donor engine came from my parts box but had to be heavily modified, cut and sanded to fit in the old AMT chassis. I ordered a pre-wired distributor (my first) and installed it based on photo references of a 1:1 flathead engine found online.

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The headers were drilled out for spark plug wires using a Dremel tool then painted Testors aluminum. This was my first pre-wired distributor.

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The firewall would need to come off as it would be a different color than the body of the car. Most of it came off in pieces, except one part near the top. Using nippers and a blade it finally got removed. The cowl was then sanded smooth with fine grit sandpaper.

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A firewall from my old parts box from the 80's fit perfectly. Using Swiss files I notched out the firewall so it would match up with the rails that were now channeled under the body. It was later modified to accept the new, larger engine.

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I ordered two sets each of AMT's new Custom & Competition Firestone Champion whitewall tires and whitewall Racemaster Dragster Slicks. Piecrust whitewalls slicks on the rear and whitewall Firestones on the front, mounted on parts box steelies just how I like it. The steelies were primed then painted Testors Dark Red Gloss. Thanks to MCM members for letting me there was a difference between front and rear steelies. I would not have known otherwise. Later I was able to salvage the caps fromt he original kit's spoked rims and they fit nicely on the steelies.

The axles that came with the built kit must have been from a die cast kit as they were a little too long, but I got new ones, a whole pack of them, from Jerry at NNL this past Saturday in Severna Park, MD.

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I measured then drilled new holes for the radiator shell with a pin vise so it sits at same height as the cowl and makes front look even lower. This ended up being a better solution than cutting a portion of the radiotor shell out.

The front suspension was replaced with a chromed one from my old parts box. This one looked better and allowed the front end to sit lower. I altered it by shaving off the top three leaf springs and mounted it on the crossmember. I don't mind a bumpy ride.

The windshield frame was broken and since I didn't have a replacement, I just fixed it. It ain't pretty but it's there. The windshield had a lot of glue on it from the original builder of the kit and I cleaned it up as best as I could since again I didn't have a replacement. I can live with that. It's not road legal as a 1:1 and doesn't have any headlights or exhaust system, but I dig it anyway.

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This is what was left over from this project.

On to the finished product:

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Edited by gwolf
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Neat little rod.

PS: The front axle is on backwards. The metal axle should pass behind the spindles and the big holes (facing forward on your build) are for the pins on the radius rods to fit into.

Still a neat looking retro-rod!

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Neat little rod.

PS: The front axle is on backwards. The metal axle should pass behind the spindles and the big holes (facing forward on your build) are for the pins on the radius rods to fit into.

Still a neat looking retro-rod!

Thanks Danno. I know the front axle is on backwards, but that's how it had to be to so it sat sturdy.

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Thanks Danno. I know the front axle is on backwards, but that's how it had to be to so it sat sturdy.

Okay. Didn't know ... sometimes people misread the parts or the instructions. Meant entirely constructively.

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