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Posted

This originally started life as a different project that I stalled on. A Revell 29 ford pickup rat rod kit, I started the basics and quickly lost interest. Then the other day as I was looking through my stash I found a few resin bodies, I pulled one out and cleaned it up, the next thing I knew I stole the parts I liked from that pickup project and a new project was born. Here is where I am so far.

29' ford chassis, Z'd rear with a parts box center rear axle center section and some aluminum rod and parts from the 29' kit. The front has the spring and axle from a Revell 40" ford kit mounted on the start of a suicide setup. I also cleand up the chassis and moved the transmission cross member I made forward (I had had the body and engine pretty far back on the pickup) I will have to extend that drive shaft a bit too.

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sitting on the wheels and tires from the 40' Ford kit (not sure these are the final ones, but I like them so far)

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mockup with the body on

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Posted

This was one of the things I liked about the project this started as, I wanted to use a different powerplant than the normal, so I went with the turbo 4 from the monogram SVO Mustang kit. I love the way it looks in there size wise and is really different, but I'm debating putting something a little more traditional in?

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Posted

I really like the general proportions, and the work you've done so far looks great. Just a word though...if you channel a car this deep, the frame rails end up running through the hips of people in it. To keep this look and still make it believable, you'll probably need to Zee the rails to put them parallel with the bottoms of the body shell. You may have to deepen the reach of your suicide front spring perch, as well.

Looking forward to seeing how she progresses.

Posted

I really like the general proportions, and the work you've done so far looks great. Just a word though...if you channel a car this deep, the frame rails end up running through the hips of people in it. To keep this look and still make it believable, you'll probably need to Zee the rails to put them parallel with the bottoms of the body shell. You may have to deepen the reach of your suicide front spring perch, as well.

Looking forward to seeing how she progresses.

Agreed with Bill. Overall looking good, but that channel is a bit much. I dig that SVO 4 banger. Heres a link to a bunch of vintage mills, perhaps you can find some inspiration and adapt some vintage parts to the block.

http://nwvs.org/Technical/Engines/EngineModelABThumbs.shtml

Posted

I've been considering it.. Looking back I probably should have started over instead of trying to change an existing project. The Z was done before this body came about, but I agree, the channel is a bit much.

Posted

Has a little reverse rake, I am not to worried about it right now though, I want to make sure I dont end up with smaller wheels and tires on the front first and I think I have a few options if the front still needs to come down.

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Posted

Looking good. A dropped front axle would put her down, but if you want to stay with that one, just raising the top of that front spring perch will do it. Cool build. You can go pretty tall and radical with a suicide perch in 1:1 if it's designed right, with thick enough stock, and welded well.

Nice work. Frame is exactly what you'd find under a 1:1.

Posted

eh.. decided to Z the front, not sure I like it...

Kinda wish I did it farther back and would have cut into the firewall. That front spring was pretty attached, so I went this route, now I'm not sure.

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Posted

still forging forward, might as well keep building till I like it right? Made a transmission cross member so I can start locating the engine, Hopefully I left enough room up there..

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Posted

You could always add just a little bit of plastic to the back edge of the front z to fill the gap between the upper frame rail and the firewall. It would take some of the visual gap away and make it look a tad better. Plus to after you get a set of headers in there depending on what you use, they may cover some of it as well. Other than what you're mentioning it looks danged good!!! Love the stance, looks better with the nose a touch lower.....

Posted

True, I learn from experience, instead of scrapping the whole sub assembly. I just do what I need to do to make it right. Only hard thing on a hot rod is that the frame is out in the open and sometimes it can't be hidden to easily!!!!

Posted

well this was what I was afraid of.. measure three times, cut once only works when you put everything on the front of the motor in the first place..

so I need to either do a remote radiator, try and shove one up there, or cut this chassis apart yet again.

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Posted

You lost a gnat's azz worth of material when you cut the frame for the Z. It shortened it just enough to cause these issues. Me I'd add cut her again and space the front out a tad.

Just my 2centavos.

G

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