Evergreen Styrene for side mouldings.

[drodg]

I am going to start working on a Fujimi Porsche 356C that I have a had for a few years. I want to add side mouldings to the body and I am planning on using Evergreen strips but questioning what is the best way to apply them? I would assume Super glue? Has anyone had success with applying these as a moulding down the side of a body? The 356 speedsters had the side moulding and it was an option on the 356 B's and C's. Thanks for the help

[Art Anderson]

I am going to start working on a Fujimi Porsche 356C that I have a had for a few years. I want to add side mouldings to the body and I am planning on using Evergreen strips but questioning what is the best way to apply them? I would assume Super glue? Has anyone had success with applying these as a moulding down the side of a body? The 356 speedsters had the side moulding and it was an option on the 356 B's and C's. Thanks for the help

I second that. I've used more than my share of Evergreen strip styrene to make chrome spears on the sides of model car bodies over the years. A good, fast drying liquid cement would be the best--super glue or "CA" will stick the stuff to your Porsche body shell, but it also has a tendency to stick out a little bit around the edges--hard to clean that up.

Art

[ScaleDale]

Super glue sets too fast for stuff like this and is unforgiving once it sets Tube glue like Testors sets too slow and runs or squishes too much. Stick with thin liquid cement like noted above. Either Tamiya Extra Thin or Plastruct Plastic Weld. Both set quickly but still give you time to wiggle parts in place. Plastruct is stronger and more aggressive, but be careful with either as you are applying it to the body of your car. Brush the strip, brush the body and hold them together for around 30 seconds and it should tack up tight.

Dale

[Tom Geiger]

I use Zap A Gap, a slow drying ca for stuff like this. It gives you enough time to position your part before it's final. And any mess sands at about the same rate as kit plastic.

[DrKerry]

Or Bondene or Tenax7

[Harry P.]

The best way by far is liquid cement. I like Ambroid Pro Weld because it works on several types of plastic besides styrene.

What I would do is tape the molding in place with a few small strips of masking tape (do not tape down along the whole length of molding, just a few spots spaced apart). The use a tiny bit of the liquid cement to tack the molding in place in a couple of spots between the tape strips. Once that glue dries, remove the tape and run a brushful of the glue along the entire length of the molding. The glue will flow by capillary action... you don't need a lot. Liquid cement will give you a clean joint... no glue showing or squishing out.

[Ace-Garageguy]

I'm curious. Are you planning to make the strips and shoot them with a chrome-like finish and apply them AFTER the car is painted, or are you planning to put them on BEFORE paint and foil them later ??

[Harry P.]

I'm curious. Are you planning to make the strips and shoot them with a chrome-like finish and apply them AFTER the car is painted, or are you planning to put them on BEFORE paint and foil them later ??

If it was me the strips would go on before painting, and they would be foiled after painting. Way too risky to try and glue them in place on a finished, painted body.

[zenrat]

My method is to use round rather than half round styrene rod and to score a groove on the side of the body into which the rod sits.

I find it easier to align the groove (and you can use a template to ensure both sides are the same) than to align a thin flexible piece of half round that ends up being obscured by masking tape in places and keeps trying to spring back straight whilst simultaneously flopping around.

It's a bit nerve wracking though taking the scriber to the side of the body for the first time...

While i'll glue the trim on before paint this method could be used for alcladded trim after the paint job with a lot lower risk of disaster.

I suppose if you wanted to be really true to life you'd drill holes in the body & put pins onto the back of the trim piece...

[Ace-Garageguy]

Fred, the scribed-line idea is interesting, ...kind of like the molded recesses the Lindberg '53 Fords have for the chrome side trim. Your groove idea got me remembering I'd come across some various small diameters of full-round carbon fiber rod recently. Though flexible, it holds its straightness much better than styrene. An Alcladded side molding made from the stuff could conceivably be attached to a scribed and shaped groove with a poly-vinyl-acetate glue ( Micro Kristal Klear, etc.) after painting with no potential for disaster.

[drodg]

Thanks everyone for the input on the install. My plan was to put them on before I prime and paint the body and using bare metal foil after I paint and polish. I was concerned about the body curve on the 356 and having a good fit against the body. It isn't the same as installing say rocker mouldings on the side of a 1960 muscle car that the wheelbase is nice and flat. I think all of you answered that for me. I was also concerned about placing them and being able to adjust somewhat before they dry and not having damage to the plastic from the glue. I believe the answer is liquid cement. I appreciate all of your input.

[zenrat]

Fred, the scribed-line idea is interesting, ...kind of like the molded recesses the Lindberg '53 Fords have for the chrome side trim. Your groove idea got me remembering I'd come across some various small diameters of full-round carbon fiber rod recently. Though flexible, it holds its straightness much better than styrene. An Alcladded side molding made from the stuff could conceivably be attached to a scribed and shaped groove with a poly-vinyl-acetate glue ( Micro Kristal Klear, etc.) after painting with no potential for disaster.

Thanks Bill. I got the idea from the Trumpeter car kits which have moulded in slots for the separate chrome side trim. I've got a Lindberg '53 but haven't got to it yet.

If using a template to scribe a body then a tip I picked up from somewhere is to use superglue to stick it on.

When you've finished scribing it can simply be popped off with a bit of force (for use on the other side) and the glue residue can be sanded off later.

[Scale-Master]

I use Zap A Gap, a slow drying ca for stuff like this. It gives you enough time to position your part before it's final. And any mess sands at about the same rate as kit plastic.

Agreed. It also speeds up the time it takes to do the job.