Making a "wash"

[JTalmage]

Hey folks, I've tried to search thru pages of the forums first before asking, but with no luck... but how can I make a good blackwash?

I tried my hand at it last night, but it pulled the paint off the part I was working on once I wiped it away no matter how I mixed it.

What is the ideal mixture and ingredients? I'd like to keep it in a small glass testors paint bottle to use whenever I need it.

Thanks! and sorry for a question that I'm sure is asked a lot!!

Jesse

[Jantrix]

I use regular acrylic craft paints thinned with water. You can't hurt anything with that.

[JTalmage]

Ahh good point. I was trying to thin testors flat black and stuff like that. I think thats what my issue was. Any particular ratio? Or just thin it til I like how it looks?

[fatkidd]

I've used Tamiya Smoke.
Use a microbrush, dip it into some of the smoke paint, dip in a small container of alcohol and apply.

[Jantrix]

Ahh good point. I was trying to thin testors flat black and stuff like that. I think thats what my issue was. Any particular ratio? Or just thin it til I like how it looks?

Yep.

[Harry P.]

I use a mixture of Future and acrylic black craft paint. Can't give you an exact ratio, it depends on what you're washing and how obvious you want the effect to be. The models in these photos have all had the Future/acrylic black wash applied in many places...

Rear wheels, front wheels, "brass" parts, bolt heads...pretty much everywhere:

Lanterns sprayed Rustoleum Metallic Brass, then blackwashed:

Wheel backs, springs, headlight mounting hardware... again, pretty much everywhere:

On all the engine:

[JTalmage]

Sweet! I'll have to find some of that stuff and mess around with it! less ingredients than I thought!

[Tom Geiger]

As others have said, acrylic paint is the way to go. Flat black and dark gray will give you some variations that will work in different situations. The ratio of paint to water depends and is more of a preference thing. One suggestion... instead of 'wiping' it off, blot it off. Weathering and toning on a car doesn't have brush strokes.

[robiwon]

Another tip for you if using acrylic and water for a wash. Add just a drop of ordinary dish soap to your mixture. This will break the surface tension of the wash and let it flow better, otherwise you may wind up with droplets instead of a wash.

[Quick GMC]

I use oil paint diluted with turpentine, works pretty much the same way as above. I tried the acrylic paint but it didn't work for me. Try a couple things and see what works.

[Mike_G]

Another tip for you if using acrylic and water for a wash. Add just a drop of ordinary dish soap to your mixture. This will break the surface tension of the wash and let it flow better, otherwise you may wind up with droplets instead of a wash.

I use dishsoap also but I don't use a whole drop, I just wet my brush and lightly rub it in the dried dishsoap that forms around the nozzle of the dishsoap bottle so the brush picks up a tiny bit of dishsoap then use the brush to stir up my mixture.

[JTalmage]

I mixed what I thought was a good consistency of "wash" that flowed well, and wasnt too thick, nor too watery... but I found that its' rather hard to wipe off of white paint!

I was able to wash my door, trunk, trim recesses, but it didnt wanna come back off, no matter how thin I got it or how much soap I added... not very happy with it, but the experiment continues I guess.

Although after several layers, I've got my engine looking just about how I want it.... since it doesnt wipe off super easy.

[JTalmage]

Anyone have any suggestions as to why it doesnt wipe away like I would think it should? It's really thinned and still difficult to wipe away residual color.

[crazyjim]

You always try The Detailer. No mixing and comes in several colors.

[Tom Geiger]

Anyone have any suggestions as to why it doesnt wipe away like I would think it should? It's really thinned and still difficult to wipe away residual color.

Are you still working with enamel or lacquer? If so, your wash is attacking the color under it since the way these paints bond is by softening the layer under them to adhere. So the reason you can't wipe it away is that it's already stuck into the paint. One way to work with it would be to wait for the wash to dry and then do the wiping with some lacquer thinner. This is the reason that we use acrylic for washes, it sits on top of the lacquer or enamel and is easly wiped away since it's not has 'hot' as the paint you've put it on top of. Also, I don't wipe, I blot. That leaves a much more realistic pattern.

[JTalmage]

I am using acrylic paint now. Mixing with water, and a bit of soap. Leaves a residue, and specks. I have to lick my finger to and rub the car to "break it loose" and then try to wipe it down to get it off the car. I'm going to have to just look in to getting some detailer. This is kinda frustrating.

[vypurr59]

I am using acrylic paint now. Mixing with water, and a bit of soap. Leaves a residue, and specks. I have to lick my finger to and rub the car to "break it loose" and then try to wipe it down to get it off the car. I'm going to have to just look in to getting some detailer. This is kinda frustrating.

Mix VERY well, it did this to me when I first started making a wash. After mixing real well, it was comparable to the washes commercially available.

[Tom Geiger]

I am using acrylic paint now. Mixing with water, and a bit of soap. Leaves a residue, and specks. I have to lick my finger to and rub the car to "break it loose" and then try to wipe it down to get it off the car. I'm going to have to just look in to getting some detailer. This is kinda frustrating.

I've never had this problem, but I don't use any soap. Just acrylic and water. How is your water? You may want to try it with a bit of bottled water if your local water has minerals or additives in it. Do you have any photos of what you are trying to do and your results?

Edited January 10, 2014 by Tom Geiger

[sjordan2]

What material or tool is best for wiping off the wash where you don't want it? This photo of the 1/1 car shows the effect I need to achieve for the kit's finely molded radiator mesh. I'll probably also hit the mesh with a dulling spray. On prewar Mercedes, the mesh was part of the radiator assembly and unlike later postwar cars, not part of the chrome radiator shell. Or I may start with painting the radiator mesh with an aluminum color, then applying wash.

Edited January 10, 2014 by sjordan2

[Cato]

A moistened cotton ball works well.

Test the Dullcote on scrap chrome sprue to make sure it doesn't 'eat' the chrome. If it does, paint aluminum then wash.

[JTalmage]

I've never had this problem, but I don't use any soap. Just acrylic and water. How is your water? You may want to try it with a bit of bottled water if your local water has minerals or additives in it. Do you have any photos of what you are trying to do and your results?

I'll try it w/o soap and see what I get. Water was straight from the tap city water, I'll try bottled as well and see if I can get different results. I dont have any pics at the moment. I do all my building in my friend's basement and our schedules vary.

[Tom Geiger]

I'll try it w/o soap and see what I get. Water was straight from the tap city water, I'll try bottled as well and see if I can get different results. I dont have any pics at the moment. I do all my building in my friend's basement and our schedules vary.

Since this was on my mind I just noticed something up on my bench. I have a small bowl I use for soaking decals. I had left it there with tap water in it and it evaporated. I noticed it left a white powder in the bottom of the bowl. That would be what ever is in my water... calcium, fluoride etc. Who knows what I'm actually drinking! But that may be the spots you are seeing.

Another tip, if you are adding Testors Dullcote to anything, make sure your CA glue is completely dry. The Dullcote will frost it if it has any wet left to it.

[kitbash1]

You can try a mix of India Ink and water. You can find India Ink at Craft and Art supply stores.