Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

Question: Many of our members curse the weather conditions in their areas – heat, cold, humidity, etc - and say it makes it very difficult to do paint work. Yet you live in the Chicago area with some of the most extreme weather conditions in the country, but you keep on chuggin' along, all year long, doing beautiful work. Do you have a secret?

No secret. I spray in the garage. Unheated. I spray and get the heck back in the house ASAP!

Posted

The Aurora kit has front shocks but no rears. I used a pair from the Fuman Mercer kit. First I had to change the angle of the shock arms... stock on the left, altered on the right:

57_zpseb7af14c.jpg

Then, following the only reference photo I could find of the Stutz rear shocks and their mounts, I scratchbuilt the mounting brackets and added the Mercer kit's adjustable friction disks:

58_zps519e9509.jpg

This will make more sense once I post the photo of the shocks after they are installed.

Posted

You know, I've never been to a contest, and keep telling myself I will never get involved in that side of the hobby... but I have to admit the idea of showing up for one is starting to tempt me, if for no other reason than to meet some of you guys in person.

It is not a contest unless you consider people's egos. :angry: It is an NNL. :D They have a handful of popular vote awards. It is a good time. There are a bunch of people on this forum who attend. We would like to meet you in person. Please consider it.

Posted (edited)

Hi Skip- that is a rear wheel you posted- the Mercer is similar. the bulges in the spokes are only found on rears in this era. they were like lug nuts fastening the brake drum.-you can see a carriage bolt going through each spoke.the front axles had no brakes so employed a lighter spoke in the wheel.

most cars of the teens had pneumatic tires. however heavy trucks had solid rubber tires till the mid to late 20,s

Edited by f1ford48
Posted

The wheels, rims and mounting clips are all molded in one piece, but a little paint detailing works wonders. The valve stems are brass rod, the nuts on them are hex-shaped styrene rod painted brass:

56_zps2e014c1e.jpg

Lower left is a front wheel, lower right is a rear wheel.

Posted

Here are a couple of shots of the rear shocks (modified Mercer units with scratchbuilt mounting brackets) and the scratchbuilt brake system (the Aurora Stutz kit has none of these parts... no brake system at all). I could have pirated the brake parts from the Fuman Mercer kit, but the brake rods were the wrong length, so rather than reworking the Mercer kit parts I just went ahead and scratchbuilt the whole system using brass rod, styrene tube, and the old standby, hex-shaped styrene rod for all the nuts. I didn't have much photo reference to go by, so the brake system is pretty much copied from my built Mercer kit, more or less.

59_zpsc64fe36c.jpg

60_zpsa77d33ec.jpg

Posted

"You know, this is not a contest winner, just a model with a good level of detail"

Yes Harry. I'm very sorry to say, but that has came and gone.

If this Stutz won't win a contest I'll eat all my '57 Fords.

Posted

All minus pin stripes... :wacko:

what if he just glued a piece of hair down instead of trying to paint a pinstripe that small... ;)

Posted (edited)

I'd say it's already a winner if only the chassis was displayed.

By the way, you may find better detail than I supplied for a radiator emblem at this link; it also shows a Bearcat with tufted/pleated pattern on the seat bottom only, not even on the side bolsters.

http://www.cartype.com/pages/1682/stutz

I don't know that all wooden-spoke Stutz cars had pinstriping on the wheels, and based on the car photos on this link, you don't even have to pinstripe the hood or fenders! :D

Edited by sjordan2
Posted

A lot of my reference photos show no pinstriping on the body at all. As far as the pinstripes on the wheels... that's just not gonna happen! :lol:

Posted

I posted this on the Mercer thread, but I think it's also appropriate here...

Here's a very interesting article on what is said to be the most accurate Stutz restoration. It was the basis for the Hudson Miniatures Old Timers kit. I think it opens up the question of what's original and what's authentic. I think they're equally valid.

http://www.autoworldmobilia.com/stutz/stutz.html

Posted

I just got an email from ebay... my ITC Mercer has shipped!

Woo Hoo! B)

Man, we've been having quite a little "brass age" revival around here lately. I love it!

Posted

I have lost it..............I wanted to do a different Stutz Bear and did not want to use the same kit, so one was snagged off of eBay yesterday............you got it, a Hudson Miniature........I will of course use the Aurora for the detail pieces and wheels. But this will be a way in the future project......so I'll just keep ogling Harry's :blink:

Rick B)

Posted

OMG! Actual progress!!! :lol:

Got the front fenders installed. Running boards, tool boxes, steering wheel. It's beginning to take shape now. The tool boxes are molded in one piece, so I used a razor saw to cut the tops off, then glued them back on. Madness? Nah... it just gives a more convincing look... now the tops look like they could actually open because there's a defined gap between the box and the top.

62_zpse659b399.jpg

The toughest thing to do was the brass trim around the firewall/dash. It's real brass, so obviously it had to be bent to shape. Let me tell ya... it took me quite a while to get the bends exact enough to follow the shape of the firewall without gaps. In hindsight, it would have been easier to bend the brass trim first, then shape the firewall to fit the trim (easier to sand wood than bend brass to a precise shape). In fact, the one in the photo is the second one I did... the first one looked just about perfect, but I cut too much off one of the vertical "legs" and was left with a big gap where there should be none... so I had to make another one. All in all, I probably spent a good hour or more just bending that darn trim piece to shape. :rolleyes:

BTW... that unconnected bit of tubing sticking up behind the horn is the horn's electrical line. Still have to locate that to the side of the body in that triangular-shaped area just aft of the firewall.

61_zps9b5d0a84.jpg

Once the glue on the fenders really sets up good, rear fenders are next.

Posted

Nice, very nice.........and too think what kit or kits should I say, you have made this master piece from. Just goes to show, no matter the material, with proper care and work, art comes to life.

Rick B)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...