Harry P. Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 I own exactly four full bottles of Testors green enamel, and have no idea what to do with them. I know what you mean. I have one of those sets of "basic" colors from Testors... the one with the little bottles of blue, red, yellow, green, white, etc... and the little bottle of thinner. I don't remember why (or when) I bought the set, and I never thought I'd need that green either. But the day has finally come! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 The spark plugs are made of three pieces each. The body (the insulator part) of the plug is aluminum tubing. The hex-shaped part is hex-shaped styrene rod that I drilled out and slid over the aluminum tubing. Then I painted the hex-shaped part silver and the insulator of the plug off white, and of course finished with a Future/acrylic black wash. Finally, the electrode is brass rod slipped into the aluminum rod (the "insulator" part of the plug). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer1 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 That's some really neat "History" Frank shared ! Nice spark plug Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nacho Z Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 You have got to be kidding! I hope you gap that thing correctly . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Spark plugs installed. The engine is starting to take shape... more still to add, but it's looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 You need to find a museum to donate this to. Check with aaca.org. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeeBee Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Spark plugs installed. The engine is starting to take shape... more still to add, but it's looking good. A slight under statement there Harry, it looks superb ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 (edited) A slight under statement there Harry, it looks superb .....Geoff did a terrific 1/24 (25?) and thoroughly researched Bearcat a year or two ago and he knows what he's talking about, for sure. Edited February 11, 2014 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Geoff did a terrific 1/24 (25?) and thoroughly researched Bearcat a year or two ago and he knows what he's talking about, for sure. The white one with the red stripes? I remember that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flat-top Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Awesome stuff , museum quality modeling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 The highly simplified Lindberg engine doesn't have a water pump, so I again raided the Fuman Mercer kit. However, while the highly-detailed Fuman Mercer kit had the water pump driveshaft, it doesn't include the actual water pump! Looking at the Fuman instructions, the end of the shaft where the pump would attach just sort of hangs there in space! The only online photo I could find that showed the water pump was of a Mercer engine, but since the Mercer and Stutz engines are so visually and mechanically similar, I copied the Mercer pump and scratchbuilt one. The lower radiator hose, that connects the radiator and water pump, will be added later, once the engine and radiator are installed on the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1ford48 Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 very Sharp-I think you made the right choice using the Lindberg engine. heres a real one to compare......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 To me, this is heaven, from a long-anticipated dream. This basically scratch-built engine exceeds the quality of your other brass-era cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Because the Aurora Stutz is a curbside kit and has no engine, it also has no "back side" radiator detail, just the outer shell. So once again I raided the Fuman Mercer kit. The Mercer radiator fits the Stutz shell with just a little trimming along the sides. I added some scrap styrene as spacers between the outer shell and the radiator: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 The engine is sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1ford48 Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 thats the first time ive seen a radiator with the motometer intact. all the kits I have the radiator cap is broken . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I know what you mean. I have one of those sets of "basic" colors from Testors... the one with the little bottles of blue, red, yellow, green, white, etc... and the little bottle of thinner. I don't remember why (or when) I bought the set, and I never thought I'd need that green either. But the day has finally come! I recently scored a whole box of paint at a thrift store, and there were three bottles of Testors green paint, all unopened. Somewhere else, I had found another bottle of Testors green, making my total stash of 4 bottles. Of all the Testors colors, this green must be the slowest seller of them all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grayghost Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Wow Harry thats some outstanding work.I hate to ask after your this far along but.How did you get the bend in those leaf springs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PappyD340 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Over the top already Harry and you've only just begun!! AMAZING!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Just wonderful work. Really enjoying this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Beautiful engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Wow Harry thats some outstanding work. I hate to ask after your this far along but. How did you get the bend in those leaf springs? Good question! I first cut all the leaves, using the kit springs as a guide for the lengths of the leaves.Then I centered the second leaf on the first (longest) leaf and glued just one end of it to the lower (longest) leaf. Then I put those two leaves in place between the mounting points on the chassis. Because the longest leaf is longer than the distance between the front and rear mount, it's forced into an arc shape when you place the leaf between the front and rear mounts. So now that I have the correct arc of the spring created "automatically," I glue the other end of the second leaf in place on the first leaf, using liquid cement to flow the cement between the two leaves. Once that sets, the arc of the spring is "locked in".... so I can take it off the chassis and add the rest of the leaves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grayghost Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Good question! I first cut all the leaves, using the kit springs as a guide for the lengths of the leaves.Then I centered the second leaf on the first (longest) leaf and glued just one end of it to the lower (longest) leaf. Then I put those two leaves in place between the mounting points on the chassis. Because the longest leaf is longer than the distance between the front and rear mount, it's forced into an arc shape when you place the leaf between the front and rear mounts. So now that I have the correct arc of the spring created "automatically," I glue the other end of the second leaf in place on the first leaf, using liquid cement to flow the cement between the two leaves. Once that sets, the arc of the spring is "locked in".... so I can take it off the chassis and add the rest of the leaves.Thanks Harry you da man.I would of never thought of that.Your skill are extraordinary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 Got the frame and rear axle assembly painted, and the rear axle installed. This is the Aurora Stutz frame, the Lindberg Stutz rear axle, and scratchbuilt springs. I still have to do the wash on the rear axle and springs to bring out the molded-in detail: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 I've also been working on the dash. The kit gauges are flat in front... no detail, and no gauge decals. So I added bezels by slicing thin rings off a length of brass tubing, painted the gauge faces white and drew the details on with a superfine sharpie. Gauge "glass" is 5-minute epoxy. I also added details to the odometer, and other details, following reference photos: The back side of the dash is very visible when you open the hood, so I detailed that, also. The various wires will be routed once the dash is installed: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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