woodsnake Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 Hey guys, I know I am a newbie here, and I haven't had a chance to read all the previous posts about some of my questions. But, there are a few things I am particulalrly interested in finding out. For example, what is the most prefered method of paint removal for a barnfind? Who likes brake fluid over purple power paint stripper, and why? What do you guys use for detail stuff, like spark plug wires? I have three "real" Mercury Cougar's that I am in the middle of working on. Two are serious restomods, the other will be a cosmetic restoration, with upgraded drive train bits. I would like to perhaps make a copy of my 67 Cougar XR7, to show with the real car, instead of the XR7 GT-E I was thinking of. Tough call for me. I spent a lot of time while I was deployed planning engine build and drivetrain variations, I guess I will have more of the same with the kit restoration! Also, what are some of your favorite tools to use on a barn find restoration? Other than an exacto knife? I was enjoying the read on using soap and water to freeze apart a built kit, I never would have thouhgt of that. Dremel tools seem like they would spin too fast to be a viable option. I also was reading about using automotive body filler and paint primer for plastic kits. That seems like it would be much harder to work with, than some other plastic filler. But? Curious what you all have to say, and I aplolgize if I have missed a previous thread on these topics. If so, mods please let me know and delete this thread.
1930fordpickup Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 Brian the first post in this topic is all you need for now. It will show you how to search for things. I like purple power . and I use two part Bondo brand filler. The package with the hardener in it. Just try local parts store.
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 Brian the first post in this topic is all you need for now. It will show you how to search for things. Like the man said...click here...http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79627
Casey Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 I seem to do just fine with the forum's advanced search function, but to each their own. As far as a forum FAQ is concerned, it has been discussed, and I would agree having one would be very helpful, but nobody has volunteered to create/write it yet, so no FAQ exists. Take a look through the topics in the Q&A and Tips, Tricks & Tutorials sections, Brian, and especially at the pinned topics. Most of those should address a few of your questions and hopefully will be of some help to you.
LDO Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) I'd like to add that two-part catalyzed putty is great. I prefer Evercoat Euro Soft glazing putty. It is very fine grained. It seems to work best over a lacquer primer. Many "tube" type putties cure by a solvent evaporating out, allowing it to shrink and crack. Look for a book on customizing model cars by Mark Gustavson. He also had a series of articles called "Custom Clinic", In Car Modeler magazine. He tells how to do custom body work like chop tops, sectioning, channeling, etc. Well worth it to find the magazines and/or the book. Edited March 3, 2014 by LDO
crazyjim Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) Hey Brian. I mostly use Purple Power but have recently tried brake fluid with great success. Larger areas I use professional Bondo. It comes in a tube with a separate hardener tube. Small jobs I use Squadron putty. Spark plug wires are Kynar wire and boots are telephone wire insulation. I carry both in a variety of colors at Crazy Scale Auto Parts. Edited March 3, 2014 by crazyjim
woodsnake Posted March 5, 2014 Author Posted March 5, 2014 Thanks guys! I recently started my first decent day job in almost two years, and so I don't have as much free time as I would like. However, I will be puting the 427 in the Cougar body! I am still debating painting it like my 67 Cougar XR7, which is a one of two by color combo, or if I will go with the primer gray of my hotrod 68 Cougar. I will try and do some more reading....
woodsnake Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 I have had my cougar now soaking well over night, in a sandwich bag with purple power degreaser, straight. It doesn't look like the paint has been touched. So if I go buy a bottle of brake fluid, what do you guys do with the old fluid? Just throw it out in the trash after the paint has been disolved?
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 So if I go buy a bottle of brake fluid, what do you guys do with the old fluid? Just throw it out in the trash after the paint has been disolved? NOOOO !!! A little respect for the planet we all live on, OK? Seriously, either leave it in a container that has a cover so you can use it again, or strain it with a paint filter or old stockings, and funnel it back into the original can. You WILL need to strip something again. Also, if your stripper isn't working, you may have lacquer paint, which may require a different stripping technique, or you may need to use oven cleaner. All is covered in previous posts.
1930fordpickup Posted March 23, 2014 Posted March 23, 2014 I have had my cougar now soaking well over night, in a sandwich bag with purple power degreaser, straight. It doesn't look like the paint has been touched. So if I go buy a bottle of brake fluid, what do you guys do with the old fluid? Just throw it out in the trash after the paint has been disolved? It this sitting in the house or outside? If it is in the garage purple power does not work as good in the cold( I have found it works best in the summer). The brand I use is ZEP (purple industrial degreaser) and it works fine on most paints. If I get a some that does not want to come off I use Easy Off oven cleaner (yellow cap) as Bill said. You might need to let it sit more than over night for the purple power to work . If you use oven cleaner do not forget your gloves and eye protection when spraying the body and such . Good luck and do not forget to wash with soap(Dawn) and water after you get the paint stripped. Nice Cougar sitting on the trailer, are you bringing it over to me? If you are in need of parts for your model -The Modelhaus - http://www.modelhaus.com/ They make a great product.
woodsnake Posted March 30, 2014 Author Posted March 30, 2014 Well, after a few days, I am seeing some real signs of paint failure. Underneath the red color, is an ugly 'Dukes of hazzard" orange....The interior is coming back to clean white plastic. I guess I will just let it soak for a few more days. I am not in a hurry at this point in time. I am glad that the purple power won't weaken the plastic! That was my fear with the brake fluid, that it would melt the plastic.
woodsnake Posted May 14, 2014 Author Posted May 14, 2014 Just to let everyone know, I haven't given up on the car. I let it sit for a total of two weeks, and the paint came off enough that I can now get back to work on it. I also got a copy of "custom car modeling" on ebay. Lots of tips, yes but mostly black and white. Oh welll. Once I get some actual progress pictures, I will post them up.
Tom Geiger Posted May 14, 2014 Posted May 14, 2014 I am glad that the purple power won't weaken the plastic! That was my fear with the brake fluid, that it would melt the plastic. I don't think either would hurt plastic much. I used to do brake fluid in a small plastic loaf pan the shape of a small loaf of bread (same shape and size of a model car body), with an opaque plastic top so I could seal it between victims. I'd put the body / parts etc in there and put the lid back on to keep the fumes in and keep the liquid from evaporating. Worked well. After about six months I went to dump the very used brake fluid and found some parts in the murky bottom, still good! Over time it can make parts brittle but won't melt them.
Ramfins59 Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 Hey Brian. Welcome to our plastic playground. Check out the Long Island Auto Replica Society if you're in the mood to join a good model car club. http://www.liarsmodelcarbuilders.com/
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