unclescott58 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Question? Has anybody ever successfully built AMT's (old MPC) Display Case Trailer, in its complete clear form? And if so, how do you do it? The instructions are of little to no help. How does one line everything up, glue it together, and get it to stay in place, all at the same time? Tried Testor's Model Master clear parts cement and tape to hold it together. But, no luck. The parts are not warped and line up straight. Just a little baffled on how to put the clear parts together successfully. I hope someone can tell me how to do this. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Kucaba Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 That's good question!! How about assembling up side down and flowing in Future. It won't yellow and melt the plastic and might be strong enough to hold it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 I'm slightly disappointed that only Mr. Kucaba has commented on this one. Has no one out there ever had any success building this kit with the clear sides and top? I've got the three sides kind of glued together so far. I'm now looking at getting them mated up with the top. I'm going slow on this, and still hoping some more people out there may have some good advice. And thanks to Mike Kucaba for the advice given so far. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 How about using MEK or Tenax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 How about using MEK or Tenax? Tell me more Jim. Do they dry clear? And what effect do they have on clear plastic? I've used neither MEK or Tenax in the past, so I know little to nothing about them. One problem with Testors clear is does bond very quickly. This is OK in most circumstances. But in this situation it's a bit of a problem. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnwildpunk Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 (edited) In my experience mek or tenax both melt the plastic. And would disfigure the clear plastic also sadly I can Not suggest anything that will help other then the white glue and watch crystal glue. Maybe an expoxy? Edited July 4, 2014 by mnwildpunk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Watch crystal glue. How does this stuff work? And how does one get a hold of it? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Tenax & MEK melt plastic together - welding it. It's strong and can really mess up clear plastic. I use clear silicone caulk when I make display cases for some of my builds. That might work for you too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboo60 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 If nothing else, try a small tight bead of a hot glue gun? a really fine line may work ok,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1930fordpickup Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 The box art shows a black stripe painted around the top at the seam that must be to hide the glue seam . I pulled mine out and it is a bit warped. I will need to clamp it flat to start with. This will take a slow go at the gluing of this together. I see why not many are built. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 I still have two of those trailer kits sealed and haven't got around to building them as yet. One without the clear sides would look good with a mid-60's drag car on it , and period-correct also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 As long as you're going for the see-through clear look, I would suggest using one of the clear-drying hobby glues such as Krystal Klear or canopy glue, or Testors window glue. They all appear whit and milky but dry clear. They're great, but they all take hours to set and cure. I'd recommend using a flat surface and a couple of square uprights substantial enough to hold the trailer parts at a perpendicular position overnight. Place one side of the trailer on the flat surface, exterior down. Then run a fine bead of the white glue in the mating trough, position the front panel square and plumb, place your upright support in position to hold the front panel square and plumb while the glue sets, and then run a thin filet bead of the white glue along the interior corner of the joint you just created between the side and front panels. Or, for extra strength ~ and if you're REALLY careful ~ you could use clear epoxy for the interior filet. Just be cognizant of how it tends to 'string' ~ a few errant strands of epoxy string on your clear trailer would really mess up the overall effect. And, many clear epoxies yellow over time. After letting it set and cure unmolested overnight, you should have a pretty good anchor for the next step, which won't be quite as easy. Next, you need to repeat the first step with the other side (wall) of the trailer, but now you'll have to support the back end of the 1st side (the already glued side) so you can achieve the second square & plumb corner without breaking your first corner joint. Again, let it set overnight before you mess with it. Now you should have the two sides joined with the front panel, and everything nice and square and plumb. Fit the three-sided assembly to the platform/chassis and run a bead of glue around the base of the walls and front panel. Use low-adhesion masking tape to hold the walls in place tightly to the platform/chassis, then stick the rear doors in place (no glue) and hold them together with tape. Next, fit the roof (no glue) to tops of the walls and front panel and tape tightly. This will hold the walls and front panel in alignment while the beads of white glue or epoxy set and cure ~ again, overnight. Once those steps are complete, you should have a see-through trailer. Whether you glue the roof in place or not is your option. Obviously, everything will hold together with better structural strength if you glue the roof, but it should maintain well if you don't glue it . . . so long as handling is kept to a minimum. The key to it all is to let the glue set and cure thoroughly! Hope this helps and is what you were looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) Thanks guys. Basically what you suggested Danno is the route I'm going with on building this. The exception, I plan on have the three walls together and roof lightly tacked on. I feel the roof needs to be firmly attached before mounting to the base trailer. Scott Edited July 12, 2014 by unclescott58 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnwildpunk Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Sorry late to respond back sounds like you got things handled watch crystal glue is a clear glue made to well glue watch crystals someone already named one of them krystal klear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 Sorry late to respond back sounds like you got things handled watch crystal glue is a clear glue made to well glue watch crystals someone already named one of them krystal klear Still working on this Dave. How strong and clear is this watch crystal glue? Tell me more. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 Got talking with a non model building friend yesterday about this build. After much discussion my friend suggested clear bath caulk might work. So, today at Target I bought some Loctite Clear Silicon Waterproof Sealant. Thinking this might be tacky enough to hold the pieces together initially. The question. Will it work without damaging the clear styrene in any way? Anybody have any thoughts on this idea? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I suggested clear silicone a few days ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 I suggested clear silicone a few days ago. I'm sorry. That you did. I did not mean to discount your advice in any way. For some reason it didn't click until the non-modeling friend suggested it. I don't know why. So this stuff will not harm clear styrene in any way? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Doesn't hurt clear styrene in any way. Make sure you clean the areas to be joined well. Some people (like me) will sometimes use masking tape on either side of the joint. All depends how good you are at caulking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 Doesn't hurt clear styrene in any way. Make sure you clean the areas to be joined well. Some people (like me) will sometimes use masking tape on either side of the joint. All depends how good you are at caulking. Jim you must be reading my mind. Using masking tape in the way your talking about, is something I've been meaning to ask about. I was thinking about taping on outside of the trailer were two parts meet. Then laying in a small bead of clear silicone in the joint and folding the joining edges tightly together. Letting the tape help hold the pieces in place. Any thoughts on this? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I use masking tape on the outside to hold the sides together. Once square, I add the top and tape that down. Then I caulk the inside of the case. I cut the tip of the tube pretty small to get a fairly narrow bead ( about 1/8"). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldnslow Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I've used clear finger nail polish to attach clear parts for years. Easy to put on and dries quickly and completely clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dartman Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I suggested clear silicone a few days ago. Permatex sells a clear silicone that is "flow able". It is the same as regular silicone but is thinner.This may help and most auto parts stores should have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 What do you guys know about something another MCCM member suggested at the last meeting about a hobby canopy glue with the name of 560 something? Paul, the MCCM member who suggested it can be a little pushy with suggestions, but is a pretty good modeler. None of the other MCCM members seemed to know anything about this glue. But, none countered him. So what is this stuff? And would it work for this? I like the idea it's already designed for hobby use and will not damage clear styrene. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Canopy 560 glue. Airplane guys use it to glue in their canopy. I use it for gluing in headlights & taillights. I have no idea if it's strong enough to hold the trailer together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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