Walt's Puffer Too T-Bucket Altered

[gasser59]

Thanks Mike. Post #22 of this thread shows the filter and its location. It looks fairly large to me in that picture. That is what I was basing my comment on regarding it being a bit undersized.

[Speedfreak]

Beautiful!

[gasser59]

Thanks Gene. Glad you're aboard. Hope to get a bit more done this weekend.

[gasser59]

Progress has been slow but detail always takes time. Got a water crossover piece made for the water jackets on the front of the heads along with a filler. Went to take a few pictures this morning and the camera battery was dead. Hopefully will get some posted tonight.

[Speedfreak]

We'll be waiting.

[futurattraction]

Very, very nice work, Brad. I'd have zinged half that front end across the room if I'd have been doing it... LOL

[gasser59]

Thanks for the comments Gene and Scott. Well, here's a pic as promised although i didn't realize until I enlarged the picture that it wasn't seated all of the way. Oh well.

Its made from aluminum tubing that i polished and I had a photo etch radiator cap in the parts box. The timing cover will get painted engine color once an adjustable bracket is made for the tensioner pulley.

Thanks for following along.

Edited September 24, 2014 by gasser59

[Mooneyzs]

Brad... Very nice work. That water filler set up looks killer. Love your work keep doing what you are doing its turning our great.

[MikeBoyle]

Do you solder your aluminum joints or glue? If solder what do you use?

[gasser59]

Thanks Chris and Mike. Your comments, along with others, keep pushing me to get back to the bench.

Mike - I use Zap-A-Gap for most everything and it holds to aluminum quite well. As you can see on the far side of the water cross-over piece, I pin almost everything. It allows me to test fit things together and gives more surface area for the glue.

[10thumbs]

Hi Brad, things are progressing and looking good!

Question, Zap a Gap, does it dry clear? If I overshoot the connection, will it be visible later? Just a question since I haven't used it yet, but I'm ordering soon.

Michael

[gasser59]

It does dry clear but if you get the tube extenders, you'll not overshoot. You'll get just the amount you need.

[gasser59]

Work has really slowed down on this build. The weather has been a bit crazy here with all of the rain, flooding, power outages and downed trees and limbs. Now that most of the clean up on our acre has been taken care of, I hope to get in some time this week.

Next up is the fuel pump that goes on the back of the blower as mentioned earlier in this thread. Kind of tight back there with the magneto but I'll get it to fit.

[Speedfreak]

Don't worry , we're still here. Sorry to hear about all the mess you've had to go through Brad.

Edited September 30, 2014 by Speedfreak

[10thumbs]

It does dry clear but if you get the tube extenders, you'll not overshoot. You'll get just the amount you need.

OK, I have yet another question about Z-a-G. Which one do you recommend for aluminum and plastic? I see several different kinds, I can imagine the thicker stuff is better, not the super thin glue. Am I right? Could you tell me the exact type you recommend? I see there are a lot of different types.

Michael

[gasser59]

I use Zap-A-Gap on metal to metal and Plasti-Zap for any type of plastic. I've not used any other type of cyanocrylic adhesives.

[10thumbs]

Yes I understand, but what is the number on the bottle? Bottom right on the label? PT02?

Is the label green or red?

Michael

[gasser59]

The orange label Plasti-Zap is PT-19 and the green label Zap-A-Gap is PT-03. I pretty much use these exclusively as my adhesives.

[iBorg]

I've been rather involved in other issues and just had a chance to go through this build. VERYYYYY nice.

Hopefully, someday soon I'll be able to return to the hobby.

[gasser59]

Thanks for the kind words Mike. We miss you around here.

[gasser59]

Since I haven't been able to source any reference for the front part of the engine, I've been utilizing the photo posted below as reference since its probably the same shop and builder that put together both of these cars.

I didn't realize until I was studying this photo that the Walt's Puffer too is in the background with a cover over the scoop. I don't know how I missed that before. I'm usually more observant than that. LOL

I can see the same water crossover pipe and fill cap as on the one in the foreground.

Edited November 4, 2014 by gasser59

[gasser59]

Engine is finally painted, blower is attached, water crossover is glued on( although I broke off the filler tube) and tensioner pulley bracket and pulley are glued on. also painted the injector hat and valve covers with Alclad.

Here's a few pics:

I just had to set up a mock up just to have a look.

Progress is slow but its still progress. As always, comments welcome.

[Nitrozilla]

Thanx for the mock up Brad. Awesomeness On Wheels.

[10thumbs]

Hi Brad, hey....it's me again with them questions.

What adhesive material do you guys use for mocking up? I've had trouble with my last two models (well my first 2 since the mid 70's), and I got into serious trouble with fitting issues. Please don't tell me brand names (I'm in Europe) just what the stuff is that works.

I tried today with my new project a quick drying wood glue that I diluted with water. I used to use this method with securing tackle on all of my wooden tall ship models.

So, what would you recommend?

PS: I'm watching every one of yours moves, so don't flub up! lol. I like the progress.

Michael

[gasser59]

Well, in this instance, nothing is temporarily glued. The rear end/axle is held on with a small rubber band, gravity is holding the front axle in place and the engine is just sitting in the motor mounts without the piano wire it will eventually get.

On other builds, I've used Elmer's (sorry...its a brand name) that been diluted but whatever it is you're temporarily gluing needs to be washed off with warm water when done so keep that in mind.