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Posted

From my experience, I Used purple power before with great success. But on my last paint stripping event purple power did nothing and after about 3 days of a hood sitting in it the purple power jelled right up like Jell-O. I went out and got a quart of brake fluid from Walmart for $1.48 and within a few hours the paint and primer were stripped.

Posted

Last night I first tried a model train body. It started taking the paint off in about ten minutes.

I soaked the Vega last night, and when I get home from school I'll pull it out of the Purple and see how it worked.

Let's us know how it went. I've use the stuff with great success. I hope it works as well for you, as it has for me in the past.

Scott

Posted

I use it straight and sometimes still takes time to remove paint. Really depends on how thick the paint (repeated scrapings) and whether the paint ate into the plastic.

Posted

I use it straight and sometimes still takes time to remove paint. Really depends on how thick the paint (repeated scrapings) and whether the paint ate into the plastic.

Depends greatly on the type of paint used. Occasionally I get an old kit that was painted years ago with model paints, whether sprayed or with a brush, & the stuff will strip right to bare plastc in the matter of an hour or two. If it's a lacquer or some oddball stuff, it may take a lot longer. It won't even touch some kinds of primer or flat enamels. Flat black is particularly bad. Steve

Posted

So it worked good. I stripped a couple train bodies (both Santa Fe Warbonnet cab units, ugh), a Vega drag panel wagon, a Nomad, and a Vega coupe funny car. Didn't dilute it, stripped all in less than a day.

Posted

Whatever you do, NEVER put anything die cast or aluminum in it. You will not get it back, as the lye in it will dissolve the aluminum in the alloy.

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