'58 Fairlane 500 Semi-Custom! Finished at Last!

[Geno]

Thanks, Geno!  Gotta say these last few operations have felt kind of risky but it feels good to push things a little further on this one.

You're welcome John. It's cool to see one of these, I've always liked the '58 Fords.

[Erik Smith]

This thread is worth every minute. 

Awesome work John. 

[John Goschke]

This thread is worth every minute. 

Awesome work John. 

Thanks, Erik!

Amazing!

Thanks, Greg!

Like how you even kept the antenna in scale.

Thanks, Bruce!  That old yellow and black from 1979 - 1980 was one of the first models that I did a lot of work to in an effort to add detail, correct inaccuracies and keep details in scale.

[John Goschke]

Recently decided to take another step to enhance the curbside view of this model by opening up the space underneath the molded-on rear leaf springs to give the parts some visual separation from the frame. Hogged them out with a Dremel tool and finished up with knife, file, and sandpaper. I added the missing portion of spring over the axle with the appropriate piece from a Revell '59 Ford Skyliner rear end.

Also, as usual with AMT's 1959 kit chassis, this one has large C-notches that need filling in the frame behind the front suspension where custom lake pipes were meant to be attached. A section of sprue, a piece of square rod, and some cyano did the trick. The photos show it compared to an unmodified '59 Ford chassis in another '58 Ford.

[MrObsessive]

John! That's a neat trick!

I'll have to try something like that whenever I'm not in the mood for fully detailed chassis'!

This is one beautiful creation you're bringing together John, and it's funny---------I've been seeing '58 Fords turn up on eBay somewhat regularly for a while, and now I'm tempted to pick up one!

[ChrisBcritter]

Niiiice! Did the same thing to my '61 Comet and '60 Chrysler (used a '62 chassis under that one). Really adds a lot to the look. Will you be dressing up the lower A-arms too?

[espo]

Excellent idea. That adds a lot visual fidelity since this area is noticeable on the 1:1 car.  

[John Goschke]

John! That's a neat trick!

I'll have to try something like that whenever I'm not in the mood for fully detailed chassis'!

This is one beautiful creation you're bringing together John, and it's funny---------I've been seeing '58 Fords turn up on eBay somewhat regularly for a while, and now I'm tempted to pick up one!

Thanks, Bill!  Give it a try, Bill – embrace the simplicity!  Everybody needs at least one '58 Ford!

Niiiice! Did the same thing to my '61 Comet and '60 Chrysler (used a '62 chassis under that one). Really adds a lot to the look. Will you be dressing up the lower A-arms too?

Thanks, Chris!  On the lower A arms I usually let the difference between gloss and flat black, and careful painting, define the shape of the piece. When viewed from the front the shiny A arm pops a little and the flat black lays back in shadow. The oil pan will also get some gloss color.

Excellent idea. That adds a lot visual fidelity since this area is noticeable on the 1:1 car.  

Thanks, Dave!  It also helps the illusion of detail in an area that one's eye might be drawn to due to the chrome tailpipes that I'll add later.

[John Goschke]

Been a busy time since the last update on the Fairlane, but I have been working on it!
Painted the chassis in my customary dual-texture black with touches of color (looks like I skipped the oil filter!)

[John Goschke]

The main project was detailing the interior side panels. I burnished some ribbon solder over the outside trim so it could be repeated inside. This worked reasonably well, though the solder's softness, which is a virtue for copying the necessary detail, is a liability during the cutting fitting and fitting process. Then I added the trim moldings from styrene strip, and marked out, scribed, and carved a tuck & roll  pattern into the panels. The front arm rests were carved from ABS, while the door handles were robbed off of Revell Skyliner door panels. A member of the MCM forum copied a set of power window switches in Bondic from a Revell '57 Country Squire (Thanks, Chris!) Most recently I scribed and carved a tuck & roll pattern to match that on the seats into the top of the dash. Final details will be a turn signal lever, '57 T-bird auto shifter for the console and an inside rear view mirror. I'll also drill the redundant heater control from the console and replace them with a tach dial.

 

[John Goschke]

Some more work on the interior details. Created a shifter for the console using a straight pin, and turned a knob with a lock-out button on top from a piece of ABS rod.  The base plate was built-up and shaped from styrene strip. The idea was to replicate a '57 T-bird automatic shifter.  Also made a turn signal lever with a shaft from a dressmakers' silk pin (which is thinner than the typical straight pin) and a turned styrene rod knob.

 

Also agonizing over paint!  These two spoons are where I'm at for the body color (roof will be pearl white).  The color on the left is a mix of tried-and-true Tamiya paints. The spoon on the right is "Plum Ice" by Bob's Paints, which I think has a lot more punch, with a great shift in tone from highlight to shadow.  The problem is I have no experience shooting Bob's on a model. It needs to be thinned with lacquer thinner and I hesitate to risk all the work I've got in this car with a new paint regimen.  Yikes!

Edited January 22, 2018 by John Goschke

[mecklm]

Can you simulate the materials/fillers/primers on a scrap body to confirm compatibility before you shoot the real one?

[John Goschke]

13 hours ago, mecklm said:

Can you simulate the materials/fillers/primers on a scrap body to confirm compatibility before you shoot the real one?

Yeah, Mike, I'll definitely be conducting another one or two paint tests before proceeding.

[Keesee17]

Personally, I like the Tamiya color but if you decide to go with Bob’s paint I’ subsistute acetone for the thinner. It should lay just fine but you’ll need to make sure to use good sandable hard drying automotive primer first.

 

Edited January 22, 2018 by Keesee17

[High octane]

Bob's paint is great stuff as I belong to two model car clubs with Bob and he sells a lot to other club members, and their paint jobs are just awesome. Try it and you WON'T be disappointed.

[Carmak]

I like your direction for color. I painted my 1:1 57 Cadillac amethyst over bright white.

Carmak

[James2]

John, it's an absolute pleasure to watch you build. And this Ford does not disappoint... 

[espo]

While I think either color would look great I would use the Tamiya color if it was my choice. One of the reasons is recalling a '58 Ford from years ago with this very same color combination and it looked outstanding. The car was a few years old and I have know idea if the colors were stock or not, I just remember how it stood out among the other cars.

[geewhiz]

I echo what James2 said.  You have perfected the art of illusion and absolutely makes your builds outstandingly gorgeous!!!  Whatever paint you choose it will be the correct one!!!

[John Goschke]

On 1/22/2018 at 6:03 PM, Keesee17 said:

Personally, I like the Tamiya color but if you decide to go with Bob’s paint I’ subsistute acetone for the thinner. It should lay just fine but you’ll need to make sure to use good sandable hard drying automotive primer first.

 

THanks, Mark.  You're not the only who told me they preferred the Tamiya shade!  The acetone is an interesting idea. In any case I'll be using the recommended Plastikote T-235 grey primer.

On 1/22/2018 at 6:24 PM, High octane said:

Bob's paint is great stuff as I belong to two model car clubs with Bob and he sells a lot to other club members, and their paint jobs are just awesome. Try it and you WON'T be disappointed.

Thanks, Nick.  I've seen several models done with Bob's stuff an they're always beautiful so I really want to make this work.

On 1/22/2018 at 11:10 PM, Carmak said:

I like your direction for color. I painted my 1:1 57 Cadillac amethyst over bright white.

Carmak

 

 

Thanks, Craig!  I've wanted to a car in some shade of amethyst for awhile. Nice Caddy!  Looks kinda cool with the muscle car stance and wheels.

[John Goschke]

On 1/23/2018 at 9:34 AM, James2 said:

John, it's an absolute pleasure to watch you build. And this Ford does not disappoint... 

Thanks, James!  I hope it continues to not disappoint!

On 1/23/2018 at 10:15 AM, espo said:

While I think either color would look great I would use the Tamiya color if it was my choice. One of the reasons is recalling a '58 Ford from years ago with this very same color combination and it looked outstanding. The car was a few years old and I have know idea if the colors were stock or not, I just remember how it stood out among the other cars.

Thanks, David!   Another vote for Tamiya -- you guys are confusing me!  Decisions, decisions....

17 hours ago, geewhiz said:

I echo what James2 said.  You have perfected the art of illusion and absolutely makes your builds outstandingly gorgeous!!!  Whatever paint you choose it will be the correct one!!!

Wow, thanks, Greg!  I don't know what to say....

[krassandbernie]

I like the warmer shade of purple that the Tamiya paint offers as well John!

[Keesee17]

John, I have a custom ‘62 Impala project to rebuild and I would like to know the name or number of the Tamiya color you posted. It is very close to a color I hand mixed the first time around. 

Edited January 26, 2018 by Keesee17

[John Goschke]

On 1/24/2018 at 10:02 PM, krassandbernie said:

I like the warmer shade of purple that the Tamiya paint offers as well John!

Thanks, Ed!  Finally, I think I'm going to remain true to my original vision and go with Bob's.

5 hours ago, Keesee17 said:

John, I have a custom ‘62 Impala project to rebuild and I would like to know the name or number of the Tamiya color you posted. It is very close to a color I hand mixed the first time around. 

Mark, the Tamiya paint is a mix of Mica Silver, and Clear Red and Clear Blue.

[John Goschke]

Finally got some primer on this thing!  Some little spot repairs to make, but soon we'll have color I think.