addicted2modeling Posted October 24, 2014 Posted October 24, 2014 i am about to apply clear coat on my model truck with Testors WL and i want to know if I should apply just one wet coat or do light coats and then a wet coat?
martinfan5 Posted October 24, 2014 Posted October 24, 2014 The name is some what misleading, its not really "One Coat", the best way to go about it that will give you the best results is to build up the coats by doing mist coats, you have to keep in mind that its a lacquer based clear, and with any lacquer based paint, as it dries, its going to shrink a little bit if I am not mistaken. Do about two/ three mist coats, enough to cover the entire body, then go ahead and do a wet coat, but if you build up the mist coats, you may not have to do a wet coat.
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 24, 2014 Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) You should really test on a model you don't care about FIRST. Develop a technique that WORKS FOR YOU. You can get 100 opinions, all slightly different, and they are not a replacement for learning how to handle ANY new material BEFORE you commit to painting a nice model. "Mist coats" are fine, but they're also a sure-fire way to get loads of orange peel if you shoot them too dry. "Wet coats" will give you a nice gloss, but they are a sure-fire way to get runs and sags if you shoot them too wet. TEST and PRACTICE FIRST. Edited October 24, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy
Snake45 Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 TWLC goes on fairly heavy, and will dry thicker than other clearcoats, and thicker than other lacquers in the Testor line. In my experience with the stuff, what's worked is to go for a just barely wet coat, no more. If you get more orange peel than you wanted, do the same thing again the next day. The stuff polishes out beautifully, BUT it's harder than most paints and even plastics. I ended up buying some "heavy duty" coarse polish just for WLC. Cuts down the polishing time by half or more. And if you screw it up, it comes right off with rubbing alcohol.
High octane Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 I apply the Wet Look Clear just like any other clear. I paint the day after the color coats are applied and do two mist coats and one wet coat 'bout 20 minutes apart. I always warm my rattle can for 'bout 6 minutes before spraying.
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) I have a little experience with the stuff. This is Testors Wet Look Clear. 2 coats shot medium-wet, one last full wet coat. The paint has NOT been sanded or polished in this shot...it's just as I laid it down. That's the value of practice. (If you look closely, you can see just a touch of peel in the corner of the decklid. It all went away with a wetsand-polish process. Sand it right and you barely even need to polish, and very fine machine-glaze will usually get it.) Edited October 25, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy
angelo7 Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 Excuse the newbie question. What do you mean by "orange peel"? Thanks.
Ramfins59 Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 Orange Peel is almost exactly that...... When the paint on your car looks "bumpy and uneven" similar to the outside of an orange.
StevenGuthmiller Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 I use WLC the same as any other clear. between 2 & 4 fairly wet coats. A lot depends on how much polishing your going to do. If you're a little heavy handed with your polishing, like I am, more coats are better to cut down on the possibility of grinding through the clear to the color coats & beyond. But, as Bill said, every builder on the planet will most likely give you a different answer. Just like most things, trial & error will eventually get you to a system that works for you. Steve
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