Erik Smith Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 I agree - black washes add the scale shadowing 1:1 cars have that can't be seen on a scale car. Another great looking model so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Like every one of Harry's builds, this should be pinned in Tips, Tricks and Tutorials in how to do stuff. Unfortunately, it's stuck below the opening page in Big Boyz, which many members don't even know exists. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramfins59 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Oh yeah, after seeing Harry's builds and several others in Big Boyz, I definitely know it exists. I don't always comment on them all but I know they're there. Great work so far Harry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Lots of progress to report. I got the fenders mounted to the chassis, and have started building up the interior. In my never-ending quest to do stuff "on the cheap" , I've tried yet another way to create "carpeting." This time I tried plain old table salt. First I "painted" the floorboard with white glue, then just sprinkled on the salt (just like flocking): Then I painted the "carpet" and installed the floorboard to the floor. I also added the rear seat, the lower cushion of the driver's seat, and the two fold-away jump seats in the back: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brudda Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Super! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoparWoman Jamie Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 I love it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 I don't know if it's relevant, but this partly built AMT 1/25 version doesn't show frame crossmembers either. http://www.gasolinealleyantiques.com/kits/images/CarAMTErtl/amtertl6513-2.JPG This member apparently has the AMT kit and may be able to tell from the instructions... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=95700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 I don't know if it's relevant, but this partly built AMT 1/25 version doesn't show frame crossmembers either. There are no other crossmembers besides what I used. The kit is simplified, there is no brake system, either. No problem... once the car is built and on display, you're not going to see the bottom of it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitro Neil Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 (edited) No idea. Never saw a layout like that before. Cadillac V8 engines of this era had the same set up, with the exhaust manifolds in the valley between the heads. Edited November 12, 2014 by Nitro Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 The doors in the kit are separate, but they aren't hinged and aren't meant to actually open (which makes me wonder why they were molded as separate pieces in the first place. Plus, there's no way to positively locate the doors... they fit into the cutouts, but just sort of float... there's no real way to align them flush. Anyway... the question was do I paint the body sides panels and doors separately, then glue the doors in place after everything has been painted, or do I glue the doors in first and paint everything as a unit? After weighing the pros and cons of each method, I decided it would be better to glue the doors in place, then paint. Trying to paint all the pieces while still separate, and then trying to glue the doors in place seems like asking for trouble as far as messing up the paint, getting glue smears on the paint, etc. At least this way, if I do get glue where there shouldn't be any, I can still sand smooth and fix it before I paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Mr. Pristovnik, Two questions: Are the clamps the hold the ignition shielding scratch built? If so, how? With washes, how are they applied. Cover the whole part then wipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Pat, the clamps were molded onto the kit pieces. The entire distributor/ignition wire shielding was molded as one chrome-plated part. After I cut it apart and added my drilled tubes, I glued everything back together and painted the assembly silver except for the distributor, which I painted black, and the clamps, which I left chrome-plated so they would stand out and look like separate pieces. A little painting trickery... With washes, the way I do it varies with the part I'm applying it to and the effect I want. In some cases (usually upholstery with separate lower and back cushions, for example), I will cover the whole piece and then wipe. In most cases I use a small brush and apply the wash specifically where I want it to go... like on the engine, for example. I dab the wash on and let it flow into the cracks and crevices on its own. It really depends on the specific situation and how best I think it'll work. Here's an example. I applied the wash overall to the seats and the top boot and wiped off the excess, but I used a small brush and applied it around the brass hardware on the wooden storage trunk. It all depends on the specific part, and how best to get the effect I want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 I was hoping to see how you'd devise hinges for the doors -- the same issue of separate doors but no hinges also applies to the 1/16 Rolls Phantom II Continental and Jaguar SS 100 kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 What do you use to attach your "holding sticks" to the parts before painting, CA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 What do you use to attach your "holding sticks" to the parts before painting, CA? Yes, a tiny drop. When the parts are dry I can just snap the "handles" off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 I was hoping to see how you'd devise hinges for the doors -- the same issue of separate doors but no hinges also applies to the 1/16 Rolls Phantom II Continental and Jaguar SS 100 kits. No way am I going to try and scratchbuild hinges for four doors and try to get the doors aligned. That's just asking for trouble! I had enough problems getting the doors to line up on the Mercedes, and that kit had opening doors engineered into the kit. This is going to be an open-top car, so opening doors would be overkill (and a lot of unnecessary work). The body side panels on this kit are really flimsy... without the doors in place, there's just not a whole lot of "sheet metal" there; the doors themselves make up most of the surface area. So by gluing the doors into the body sides and handling the sides as a unit, building (and painting) will be much easier than if it had opening doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Unlike the dash on the 1928 Mercedes I just finished, which has a ton of gauges, switches, buttons, and warning lights, the dash on this big Lincoln is Model T simple... just a small gauge cluster in the middle of an otherwise blank blank panel. No glove box, no nothing. The gauge cluster is a chromed piece that's supposed to be glued into the panel from behind. The problem is that the dash panel is so thick that when you glue the gauge cluster in place, the raised rim around the gauge cluster doesn't even make it to the surface of the dash panel. No good. So I used a grinding tip in my Dremel th thin down the dash panel from the back side, to allow the gauge cluster insert to "stick out" from the surface of the dash panel: Another problem is that the dash panel has molded-in woodgrain detail, but none of the photos I gathered up from the internet show the dash on this car to be wood... they all show a stamped steel panel. So I sanded off the wood grain and painted the dash panel black: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 Working on getting the various body subassemblies ready to go... The windshield and the "glass" panels in the secondary cowl unit have been replaced with Lexan. And unless that wiper works by magic, I'm going to have to scratchbuild some sort of wiper motor. Some of the more clever among you can probably figure out the car's color scheme by now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Looks good. Like the color choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 Thanks. There will be red pinstripes between the light and dark blues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 I ordered the red pinstriping tape yesterday, it'll take a few days to get here. Because applying the pinstripes to the body sides before the sides are glued in place will be much easier, I have to wait until the tape arrives before I can assemble the body panels. In the meantime, I'm keeping busy with some other bits and pieces. The kit has a plastic trunk, but I don't like the looks of it, so I decided to scratchbuild my own. Trunks on cars of this era were manufactured by many companies, and there were a lot of different sizes and styles available. I built a generic looking trunk based on my reference photos. First step was to determine the size of the trunk (again, based on reference photos), and build the basic box and top out of scrap pieces of wood ("sprues" from previous laser-cut wooden kits I've built plus left-over wood from various ship kits). The curved top was framed in wood and then covered with card stock to give me a smooth curve: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Next, I upholstered the trunk and top with a vinyl material that looks exactly like leather (found it in the sewing dept. at Hobby Lobby). I used contact cement on the back of the material and on the trunk surfaces, then applied the material to the trunk and lid... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 I painted the trunk to match the car's upholstery, and made the straps out of strips of paper painted the same color but with some Future added to give the straps a slight gloss and make them stand out from the trunk. The buckles are brass wire bent to shape, and the brass hardware is leftover PE pieces from a trunk kit I bought (I used that kit to build the trunk on my 1904 De Dion that I posted a few weeks ago). The trunk handles are heavy cotton thread, also painted to match the rest of the trunk. I altered the hardware that the handles attach to (it was originally flat and meant to be corner reinforcements on the trunk kit... I changed the shape to make it look more like hardware used to hold the handle straps)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DynoMight Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Trunk looks great Harry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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