tbill Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) Me again. Those brake lines will probably look OK as you've got them set up, but not everybody will be convinced that they're meant to represent tubing. I'd suggest you get busy this afternoon and get them drilled out all the way through. hahaha, is the master cylinder cap going to be removeable as well? sorry, couldn't help myself, awesome work Joe, keep it up Edited January 21, 2015 by tbill
mustang1989 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Posted January 21, 2015 I could display a build with the cap off and use brown color with epoxy to simulate brake fluid in the reservoir! LOL Thanks guys!! I needed a chuckle or two tonight after the day I had.
1972coronet Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 hahaha, is the master cylinder cap going to be removeable as well? sorry, couldn't help myself, awesome work Joe, keep it up If the cap is removable , he may as well be certain to make it a correct , assembly line cap ( ) . In 1970 the SAE standard for brake fluid was J1703 , and the caps were stamped as such . Prior to that it was SAE-70 R3. The now-common "SAE DOT 3" stamped caps didn't come along until c.1975 . and not one of the replacement pieces
mustang1989 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) Now THAT would be small!! lol Edited January 21, 2015 by mustang1989
mustang1989 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) Folks I'm going to try something totally new to me today as it's been weighing on my mind about how to replicate a mummified (a.k.a. tapped/wrapped) wiring harness. It's all in the experimental stages now and I may have to switch to a slightly smaller gauge wire to accommodate the scale thickness to my build here but here goes. First I start with two strands of wire clamped at one end by my table vise and two strands of much thinner wire. Then I gather my tools and materials. I didn't get pics of the initial process but I think you'll get the jist here. I used the lockwire pliers to put neat wraps in the wire and took the two much smaller pieces of wire and inserted into the wraps at about the midpoint and continued the wraps until it was fairly tightly wound. I then applied a bead of super glue along the length of the wrapped wire set. At that point I cut a strip of the teflon tape and started wrapping the twisted wire set like I would with electrical tape. To get this: I continued on until I ran out of tape and, unfortunately, time this morning but this is where I'm at right now. Will continue onwards tomorrow morning and have the four wires as breakout circuits for the ballast resistor and the wiper motor. Again I'm probably going to have to go with smaller gauge wire but I've got the thought process from inside my head to application now anyways. a little closer......... I do see myself adding more super glue to the wraps to keep it from looking so much like wrapped twisted wire but we're getting there. When done it'll be getting a treatment of semi gloss black to simulate that black tape color. Edited January 21, 2015 by mustang1989
Mopar - D Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 Wow Joe you just keep coming up with new stuff everyday it seams here. Great to see you sharing your talents!!
mustang1989 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks Dan! Hopefully, once I come up with the correct wire size , I can pull it off to at least resemble a wire harness in order to route it all at the drivers side of the firewall area. We'll see....
rsxse240 Posted January 22, 2015 Posted January 22, 2015 I have only one question about your wrapping tape. How are you going to make it black? Nothing will stick to teflon. A while back on Automotiveforums' model car section, someone had explained the procedure on doing this and I'm pretty sure it's the same as what you are doing, but the tape was something that was paintable like bible paper or something, I can't recall. I'll see if I can find it again, if I do, I'll share a link.
tbill Posted January 22, 2015 Posted January 22, 2015 Joe, I gotta stop looking at this thread, cause you keep putting ideas in my mind for my Camaro builds........just stop already would ya?? lol I am not doing wire harnesses for 6 cars, not gonna happen....... keep it up man, you're a detail animal, I love it!!
mustang1989 Posted January 22, 2015 Author Posted January 22, 2015 (edited) Thanks Ken and Tom for your encouragement and support. It's much appreciated fellas. This, I found out today as somewhere along the line I forgot about that! Sometimes we miss the very basics as I've been working with this stuff for years! Jeez! I come up with "bright idea" and then at work I get "reminded"........................but............I have another idea !!! Edited January 22, 2015 by mustang1989
mustang1989 Posted January 22, 2015 Author Posted January 22, 2015 No real benchtime this morning. It was mostly research as to how I can pull the harness replication off. I may move on to other things right now with this build but rest assured, I will be re-visiting and re-vamping this idea.
taaron76 Posted January 22, 2015 Posted January 22, 2015 You are nut, Joe! But, there is some great detail in this build and I can't wait to see it. Have you figured out a way to make the horn operational? Tim
rsxse240 Posted January 22, 2015 Posted January 22, 2015 Glad I can help, Joe. I messaged you back. Here's that link for anyone else who wants to see it. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=905115 I hope this doesn't violate any forum rules. I'm sure it will be ok because I'm HELPING hahaha
mcandela Posted January 22, 2015 Posted January 22, 2015 This is crazy KOOLLL!!!! Keep schooling a lot of us here.
mustang1989 Posted January 22, 2015 Author Posted January 22, 2015 Tom:Thanks for the good word man and I don't blame you on the not doing wire harnesses for 6 builds. That would drive me crazy too. (Hell this one here is almost doing that!) Tim:No operational horn yet! lol . Hopefully I can start making some real progress on this thing. I've still got a little ways to go here in the engine compartment and then hopefully I'll be able to get underway. Ken:Thanks for the link dude! I'll be using that for sure in future builds. Mike:Thanks for the encouragement! Believe me when I say I get a lot more from you all than I bring to the table. I just started in automotive builds for all practical purposes (since around the 1st week of November) and am still in my infancy skill wise here. I do appreciate what you said though. Tommy:No thanks! There's gotta be an end to this all somewhere. I think this build is running itself at times! lol
gtx6970 Posted January 22, 2015 Posted January 22, 2015 To be correct there are about 4 different color finishes on the master cylinder setup. Some restorations show it all black but that's not quite accurate. Booster should be semi gloss black, resivoir should be an iron grey, cap should be a anodized gold and the cap clip silver. Some cars the check valve is white, some painted and on these cars there is a round orange paint daub above the check valve on the booster if you really wanna get serious. My recommendation is if you are not going to do all the paint daubs and chalk mArks throughout the car don't do any. I tend to do them on my mudtang and torino builds but I know the cars inside out through my other more expensive hobby so it's easy for me lol Sorry but this info is wrong . All Challennger TA's had power disc brakes. All power disc brake cars in 1970 the booster, master cylinder , bale wire and ck valve is painted as an assembly in a cheap gloss black paint. No exceptions Any other make or model I cant say as to how they were painted,,,but On mopars 1970 and prior they were black.,,trust me . 1971 is a different story , then it becomes a question of booster supplier ( be it Midland Ross or Bendix )
freakshow12 Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 (edited) I can accept that answer. So several well restored cars are not correct then? What I did was look at several sources and there were differences. I am a Ford guy and have a good grasp on most muscle cars but some of these finer points are good new info. Thanks I should put up some of the pics I have of T/As with the setup I described. I have learned that nothing mopar is set in stone either. Lol Edited January 23, 2015 by freakshow12
microwheel Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 I have only one question about your wrapping tape. How are you going to make it black? Nothing will stick to teflon. A while back on Automotiveforums' model car section, someone had explained the procedure on doing this and I'm pretty sure it's the same as what you are doing, but the tape was something that was paintable like bible paper or something, I can't recall. I'll see if I can find it again, if I do, I'll share a link. Actually you can paint teflon tape. just use Tamiya ultra fine white primer to coat it with first and then use any brand of black or grey paint you want over it. I've done it a ton of times. If you get the least little bit of cracking in it from bending it in place, just touch it up afterword with a fine tipped paint brush with your color of choice. By the way outstanding work so far Joe.
mustang1989 Posted January 23, 2015 Author Posted January 23, 2015 I do appreciate the input you guys give and it's all good stuff so thanks Bill and Fred for taking the time to contribute all the information you do to my build. I run into these issues all the time with the RLM colors when building Luftwaffe subjects(the only thing is that muscle car information is a lot more recent and available! lol). Thank you both for all you contribute in here. Jim: Thank you for that information because I had decided to scrap the initial idea and was working on something to take it's place. I do have a bottle of Tamiya liquid primer in gray. I may give it a shot with this stuff and see what kind of result I get. If it doesn't work I'll find a bottle of the Ultra Fine White Primer you speak of. Thanks buddy!
microwheel Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 (edited) I do appreciate the input you guys give and it's all good stuff so thanks Bill and Fred for taking the time to contribute all the information you do to my build. I run into these issues all the time with the RLM colors when building Luftwaffe subjects(the only thing is that muscle car information is a lot more recent and available! lol). Thank you both for all you contribute in here. Jim: Thank you for that information because I had decided to scrap the initial idea and was working on something to take it's place. I do have a bottle of Tamiya liquid primer in gray. I may give it a shot with this stuff and see what kind of result I get. If it doesn't work I'll find a bottle of the Ultra Fine White Primer you speak of. Thanks buddy! Hi Joe. sorry I should have told you the type of tamiya pimer I use.. it's the type in the can.. the bottle is acrylic and wont stick as well.. the can is a lacquer base and is what I use. But if you use the acrylic and it works, let me know and I'll make a note for future use myself lol. Edited January 23, 2015 by microwheel
mustang1989 Posted January 23, 2015 Author Posted January 23, 2015 Thanks for the heads up Jim. The stuff I'm using is about the same as the can. Check it out:
Mopar - D Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 Joe it sure will be nice if the primer will work for you. I'm very interested in seeing if you can make it work.
microwheel Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 Thanks for the heads up Jim. The stuff I'm using is about the same as the can. Check it out: Yup that's pretty much the same stuff as in the can.. sorry I had forgotten about that bottle lol. It should work fine.
mustang1989 Posted January 23, 2015 Author Posted January 23, 2015 Dan:It ended up sticking so I'll be using that idea after all. I'll have to do the wraps on a piece of wire that's not twisted though. After sitting back and looking at it a bit , it looks like wrapped twisted wire. As far as today's updates go , I ended up installing a hose for the windshield washer reservoir and I've been working on the chassis a little bit. I ended up just starting over because I'm going to have to change up the ride height a little bit to get the wheel/ tire combo that I have to work. So with that.................. Here we go..........
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