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Posted

Thanks Carl.

So I started on the trim work tonight. A few first layers. Very tedious. I dont know what I got myself into... :huh::huh:

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I ask myself that all the time!! It is looking stunning ao far!! Keep it up!

Posted

A bit disappointed today. I've attempted to pain the trim with a brush and I"m just not getting the look I want. With that, the contrasting wood panels and some scratches on the front right fender, I've thrown it in the pond. Going to start the body over.

:blink::angry::(

Posted

Joel,

First of all, very nice build, especially the engine.

A few thoughts on your colors and interior.

If you can figure out how to do this, it might be wise to fill in the gap on the front seat-back. Perhaps some small round or half-round rod might do the trick. As the white/turquoise isn't stock (Straw (light tan) and Mahogany (dark brown) was the sole color from the factory,)

For Glacier Blue, you can certainly get in the ballpark using Testors Light Blue. The non-metallic color might also make painting the wood easier.

Sandpiper Tan isn't too far off (at least to my eye) from Model Master Shell Beige.

With regard to the wood area, I would suggest using white primer for the body, and masking off the wood area to make painting easier.

Seafoam Green might be best replicated with Testors Gloss White with Gloss Green added a few drops at a time.

Testors Cream in the square bottles, mixed with a little light brown, will get to "maple" pretty well. Dry-brush some brown for graining, and top-coat with some thinned clear yellow to give the slightest cast without changing the color- play with the tinting a bit before application.

The mahogany Di-Noc decals are best simulated by starting with a brown-red mixture, and building up with brown mixed with black to darken it a bit and black, which will suggest the grain pattern. Take a look at some pictures of plain-sawn mahogany to get the grain pattern. Top-coat this with some clear gloss; even if using enamels, it might be safest to use acrylic clear, which will also not yellow. The clear acrylic should be applied over the entire wood area.

With regard to stripping, I've found it's safest to strip resin with Easy-Off, it's enough less potent to avoid damaging the resin. Whestley's Bleche-Wite also works well.

Good luck with this project. It's nice to see something different getting done.

Charlie Larkin

Posted

Sorry to hear you are into a redo on the body! You would be better dry brushing the wood than trying to cut the wood exactly. I have a PDF of a tutorial on wood graining that was done some time ago by Irv Arter. If you PM or email me your email address I'd be happy to send it to you. It's how I learned to do it.

Posted

Thank you so much for the help. I actually have all the stock colors coming in this week so I plan to use one of those. Glacier blue and ivory is what I used here. Not sure if the pics or the colors on each monitor capture that. I'm not sure I want to paint the wood panels though.

I'm interested in how the painted panels would look instead of the actual wood. I'm willing to try it. PM coming your way Tom.

Again, thanks for all the help gentlemen.

Posted

Im going to have to take a trip to the hobby shop and compare the colors. I'll check for some of those. I'm kind of glad I decided to strip it all. I finally got the paint I needed to match the factory color. Along with another 180 bottle is factory colors but that's a different thread. Here are some co,parison shots from the blue I was using to the new blue that matches.

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Gotta work on those pillars since they seem to have weakened when I stripped it. One is missing already.

Posted

Unfortunately, I'm not surprised you encountered the weakening issues.

SuperClean is much more potent than Easy-Off or Bleche-Wite, which is why most resin-casters recommend you don't use SuperClean.

Try replacing the broken window slider with a small piece of Evergreen or sprue.

Charlie Larkin

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
Ok, after a few tears, some blood, sweat and a few cuss words, this one seems to be back on track. I broke off another one of the pillars that I had to replace. Seems to be sturdy enough. Lots of sanding and dipping and sanding. Finally last night I sanded the layer of primer and today it seemed like it was ready to spray. Paint came out more smooth than before so I'm happy about that. I'm going to give it a few days to dry before I try to tape off and go for the trim. I'd hate to have to do this all over again and I dont think this can take it again either. I might end up with a semi-stock due to teh paint issues. Painted the trailer before cleaning the air brush as well. All ok so far.
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Posted

Nice save! Are you going to use laminate wood again, or are you going to try the wood graining technique?

Gonna try the technique, Tom. The only concern I have is the tape. Hope it doesn't peel. Paint again. Giving it enough time to dry. Wish me luck.

Posted

Gonna try the technique, Tom. The only concern I have is the tape. Hope it doesn't peel. Paint again. Giving it enough time to dry. Wish me luck.

Use Tamiya tape on the edges that matter. I'd first tape off the body outside the wood frame, then dry brush the lighter colors. Let that dry, then mask off the lighter framing pieces to do the center panels. Good luck!

Posted (edited)
Thanks guys. So I taped it all off again. Only used Tamiya tape and seems like it helped. Less places where the paint peeled but I should be able to fix it. At least one side came out perfect. The paint I just used was a mix of tan, leather, white and wood colors. I like it. Mixed some extra so I can spray it on other builds later.
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Edited by iceman-555

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