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Posted

Lots of good work here. On your 1:1's front spoiler, If you want to try to add one, Chevrolet used to have a replacement center section for the '73 - '77 year model. It was the very short style to replace the ones that everyone was ripping off. It used a simple "pop rivet" type attachment. Your hood moldings look right on, are you going with the tall or short rear spoiler ?

Posted

The front seats in the ’70 kit are not the same style as in a ‘73. I used a seat from an old built up MPC ’76 Camaro in my collection as a base to convert into the passenger seat in my car.

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I will make resin copies so I can restore the interior of the donor car. I’ll add the velour texture after casting.

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The back seat is also different, but I used the ’70 piece and modified it into a ’73 pattern.

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Ready for the velour, after I make the rear speakers for the package shelf…

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Posted

Your Build is coming along nicely, love the mods your doing. If you don't mind, I thought you might like to know, that with the rear valance in place, your going to have a fight on your hands to get the interior and chassis to all slide in under the body. Not long ago, I built the 70 1/2 Baldwin Motion Camaro which shares the same body, interior and chassis with the Z-28 kit, and learned the hard way to leave the rear valance out until I mated up the interior and chassis. It just goes in easier when you slide it in on a upward angle from the back of the car forward. That, and the top and bottom edges of the glass need to be sanded just a tad as well as the front body edge of the dash, otherwise, with everything in place, the interior won't sit up into the body far enough to allow the chassis to sit where it is supposed to. AMT made the clearances on these kits so tight and close that these are issues that alot of us have found when building these 70 1/2 based Camaro kits. Hope the info can help you out and help you to avoid the dreaded fight to mate it together.

Posted

Thank you for the tips on the fit Jim.

Right now I can get the "guts" into the body without a fight, but I don't have the engine and trans in the mix yet either. I was planning to install the front subframe/suspension/engine/trans to the unibody after the interior had been installed.

Posted

Thank you for the tips on the fit Jim.

Right now I can get the "guts" into the body without a fight, but I don't have the engine and trans in the mix yet either. I was planning to install the front subframe/suspension/engine/trans to the unibody after the interior had been installed.

Yup I know what ya mean.. but have you tried the fit of the body, interior and chassis, with the glass and dash mocked in. Its with the glass and dash that the interior and chassis fit show their ugly heads. When I was mocking things up, It all was going good and seem to have no fit issues, then I installed the glass and went to set the finished interior and chassis, and that's when the fit issues showed up. A few modifications, and fixing damage from modifying already finished sub-assemblies, and a lot of paint touch ups later, and I learned my lesson. I'm sure others who have worked with these kits can share a few horror stories of their own as well.

Posted

Again, I appreciate the heads up on this Jim. I'll check out the glass fit while I play with the interior. I just threw one together slammer style recently and the glass fit fine, without an interior...

For the driver’s seat I cast a copy of a somewhat similar style seat from a Tamiya kit (maybe from a Skyline?) to make into the Flo-Fit I have.

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I reshaped the bolsters and made the center cushions out of sheet styrene. I had to shave the cushion areas of the cast seat down before adding them.

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The reshaped headrest was mounted on a couple steel pins.

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Posted

Thanks José!

The dash on the AMT kit is closer to being accurate than the one in the ’76 MPC kit, so I will use it. The first step was to drill out the holes for the gauges and thin out the bezels around the gauges.

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Posted

My car has ’92 Trans Am GTA wheels. They are 16 x 8s. The front wheels on the TA were offset by 16mm making them a little deeper dished. On my car I put the “fronts” on the rear and vice versa to give it the appropriate look of a ‘70s car.

I cast two sets copied from the Monogram ’89 Trans Am wheel. They are close, but they do not have the proper offset, (or even different offsets), the offset appears to be an approximate average of the front and rears.

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From one set I made the outer rims with the proper depths. This is a front and a rear.

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The other set also had the outer rims removed so I could use the centers. I found a set of tires that look about right size wise; the rears are larger than the fronts.

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Posted

Again, I appreciate the heads up on this Jim. I'll check out the glass fit while I play with the interior. I just threw one together slammer style recently and the glass fit fine, without an interior...

For the drivers seat I cast a copy of a somewhat similar style seat from a Tamiya kit (maybe from a Skyline?) to make into the Flo-Fit I have.

DSC04492_zps7e1176d1.jpg

I reshaped the bolsters and made the center cushions out of sheet styrene. I had to shave the cushion areas of the cast seat down before adding them.

DSC04514_zps7b7c1ca1.jpg

The reshaped headrest was mounted on a couple steel pins.

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I would love to have a few sets of those flo-fits so bad. Change you're headrest to a halo style and they'd be perfect for fox body mustang builds. Nice work all around on you're build.
Posted

After blowing up the car’s original 3 speed automatic back in the 80’s, I installed an (at the time) “exotic” 700R4. For the model I sourced a 4L60E from the Monogram Impala SS. I cut the transmission from the engine and the torque converter/inspection cover from the pan and assembled the trans and pan so I could fill the seam above the pan because of the way it was molded. I cast that and the plastic cover as two pieces for easier painting.

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Posted

Your work is really nice as wel as you 1:1. Gonna follow this closely,I love it when people get an opportunity to build a replica of their car.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I made the headers from a pair out of a Revell SuperTruck kit. I cut some of the tubes apart and made the flanges from brass. I cut off the long collectors and made new ones to match mine from brass and then added P.E. flanges.

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Posted

Thanks guys.

This is the kit supplied ’70 console. ’73 Camaros used a different style.

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I filled in, built up and reshaped the kit part.

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Then I cut out the opening for the shifter plate in the correct location, added the console door and textured it.

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