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’73 Camaro


Scale-Master

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I made a copy of the graphic equalizer. To give some depth to the shifter plate area I put the gear selector lettering and the blue plastic dust cover in the recess of the console. I made the shifter plate to sit flush above with some space between like the real car.

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After looking at the headers while playing with the wire looms I did some minor reworking to bring the rear pipes in tighter.

Despite warnings of fit issues especially since I attached the rear panel to the body, it seems to fit quite well with all the interior parts and glass temporarily installed. The firewall is a little tight to install, but once I modify the kit part to match my car it should provide a bit more wiggle room.

I doubt this one will be done for the next GSL, I'm not sure it will even be done this year. It's done when it's done...

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  • 3 weeks later...

I started making a GM HEI distributor for it and when I mocked it up on the engine block I realized I’d better check for clearance under the hood before getting too far along.

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That meant I needed to first address the transmission cross member since on my car the factory one is modified and installed 180 degrees to accommodate the 700R4.

I sawed the cross member out of the subframe and filled the two holes. I drilled and pinned it for a positive fit. I also began filling in the top of the subframe with filler. (The orange one is the way the kit comes.)

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After test fitting this subassembly into the body/chassis I can see it does have enough clearance and is similarly tight like the real counterpart.

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I put an HEI distributor in my '68 Firebird, it's an ignition upgrade that gives a lot more "bang for the buck" than most people realize.

I even figured out a way to use an HEI module and external coil on a Ford 2.8 litre V6, never have to worry about spark on that car. :)

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This is just the first round to fill the frame. Often I'll use CA, but these are deeper than most others I've encountered.

I used Evercoat polyester filler (two-part). I'll give it another skin coat of the same stuff then soften the frame corners a bit.

Any decent two part poly filler will work.

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I decided to work on the front suspension since I was tinkering with the sub-frame. I installed a C4 Corvette fiberglass monoleaf set up on the real car. So to add it to the model I made a brass insert for the cross-member where the spring will be mounted.

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The upper control arms and spindles are the factory GM units, but the lower control arms are special made items. I made this pair from sheet styrene.

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These will become the front (Koni) shocks.

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Before assembling the main suspension parts to the sub-frame I figured I should make the sub-frame connectors. They are built up out of sheet styrene and brass. I also had to open the rear of the front sub-frame rails to accept them, like the real car.

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I installed the mono leaf back in 1988 partly because even though I had the OEM part numbers for the front springs, no supplier would guarantee the car would sit right. (My main guy said I could swap springs as many as I wanted to try, but for those of you who have changed front coils in a home garage you'll understand what pain that can be to test fit.)

One of the benefits of this set up is I can adjust the spring rate to three settings and the ride height is infinitely adjustable.

It handles incredibly well, like a giant go kart. But it also has a 1-1/4 inch front sway bar, 1 inch rear sway bar and traction bars that balance the rear leaf springs to match heavier spring rate I set up on the front. And even with the sub-frame connectors, the suspension is very hard on the car, not to mention the ride is harsher than my C/10.

The only downside other than the aggressive ride is the inherent shudder common in C3 Corvettes when driving on very rough or uneven roads. Manageable, but grating, and not a real problem if you pay attention to the road.

It was worth every penny and only took about 1/2 a day to install and align. I took to the alignment shop and was a little surprised I nailed the settings just using a tape measure, level and a square. But then being a brake & front end mechanic for several years beforehand probably helped...

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I installed the mono leaf back in 1988 partly because even though I had the OEM part numbers for the front springs, no supplier would guarantee the car would sit right. (My main guy said I could swap springs as many as I wanted to try, but for those of you who have changed front coils in a home garage you'll understand what pain that can be to test fit.)

One of the benefits of this set up is I can adjust the spring rate to three settings and the ride height is infinitely adjustable.

It handles incredibly well, like a giant go kart. But it also has a 1-1/4 inch front sway bar, 1 inch rear sway bar and traction bars that balance the rear leaf springs to match heavier spring rate I set up on the front. And even with the sub-frame connectors, the suspension is very hard on the car, not to mention the ride is harsher than my C/10.

The only downside other than the aggressive ride is the inherent shudder common in C3 Corvettes when driving on very rough or uneven roads. Manageable, but grating, and not a real problem if you pay attention to the road.

It was worth every penny and only took about 1/2 a day to install and align. I took to the alignment shop and was a little surprised I nailed the settings just using a tape measure, level and a square. But then being a brake & front end mechanic for several years beforehand probably helped...

Thanks for the info. Nice to hear for someone with first hand experience.

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