horsepower Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Yes, I used graphite impregnated urethane bushings throughout when I first set it up, including the sub-frame mounts, but except for the upper control arm bushings. Because I set the front spring rate to "Competition" (instead of the "Sport" or "Street" options) those bushings are standard rubber to provide a manageable "weak link" I could easily monitor from under the hood since I expected it to be harsh. They are still the same ones (and in fine shape) from back then.I also shaved the lower control arm bushings to move the lower control arms forward and gained about 1/4 inch in overall wheelbase, also visually centering the front wheels in the wells. The resulting added caster was dealt with in the shims at the upper control arms. I run a bit more camber than stock to maximize the wear on the tires and to get the best contact patch on moderate to hard cornering. The rear sway bar uses lead bushings on the bar since it will blow out the urethane ones in less than 500 miles of good use. I custom cast those myself and have had zero problems since I started using them about 1992.The real current trick set up is to replace the urethane subframe bushings with aluminum, or steel. This is to make the subframe a virtual part of the body when combined with the connectors. It stiffens the suspension points and cuts out the majority of chassis flex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nova-ss Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Dude..smokin work.I enjoyed seeing all the work,details and changes made.the sub frame extender you made was a surprise to see.really nice work all the way around....Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 nice !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 This is gonna be so cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 (edited) Thanks guys. Del - This at the time was current/leading edge tech. I'm fine if new stuff comes along, no need to try to fix this one, it works. The real car is so harsh (even without solid motor mounts) that swapping beefier subframe bushings on this one is past overkill. It was built to be a daily driver. This car has been "done" for over a decade; suspension and current set up is about 25 plus years old. I drive the "it" out if it; it's what I built it for. (It was a good daily driver for a twenty-some years.) Now a door ding in one of our plastic cars is much easier to deal with than this one getting carelessly damaged, so grocery shopping in a Corvette is safer... I didn’t like the way the headers fit under the car after mocking it all up with the suspension and wheels. So I stripped them and shortened them. First I cut the three tubes that were closest together. Then I snipped the single tube and re-bent it to fit after cementing the three back together. Time for reshaping… Primed … Edited December 21, 2015 by Scale-Master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 I tried TS-30 Silver Leaf instead of the Chrome Silver I used before thinking it would go on thinner and still be bright enough. But decanting and airbrushing did not give the desired look. Rather than build up more paint I opted to strip the headers as I had done in the past. Unfortunately this time the plastic disintegrated, not just at the glue joints, they crumbled like rice. Set number three came from a Revell ’69 Camaro and were also significantly modified to fit the engine/sub-frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 I made wire looms like I have on the real car and wired the engine before permanently installing it into the sub-frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 I turned the top of air cleaner from aluminum and milled the filter element from a chunk of raw resin I cast. The pleats are a bit heavy looking, but once it is all painted I think it will be OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louie Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 You Think it will be okay, It's awesome. What a nice air cleaner, what a nice build. Been following your build for a while now and just love it. I had a 73 Type LT. It was a real nice car but the ending wasn't so nice ( ouch! ). Thanks for sharing this with us and I can't wait to see more. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DumpyDan Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Looking good, sweet looking model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 You Think it will be okay, It's awesome. What a nice air cleaner, what a nice build. Been following your build for a while now and just love it. I had a 73 Type LT. It was a real nice car but the ending wasn't so nice ( ouch! ). Thanks for sharing this with us and I can't wait to see more. Jeff This one is a Type LT as well. Just rolled over 275,000 miles on the odometer. I'll be taking it out for a romp tomorrow too. And thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 (edited) The rims are almost done. Two different offsets, but the same width. I machined the valve stems/caps from aluminum. Half surprised I didn’t lose any of them… Still need to add the center caps/knock-offs. Edited February 25, 2016 by Scale-Master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exesivefire Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 excellent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 The knock offs have been added. The tire sidewalls will be reworked, I just needed to test fit everything again before I decide if I’m ready to paint the body. The little red bowties in the centers of the knock offs were fun to apply… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted April 2, 2016 Author Share Posted April 2, 2016 I made copies of the Kicker 6X9 speakers for the rear… Rubber Heartbeat floor mats for the front… And the velour dot pattern for the three factory seats… The dash still needs the gauges, but most of the painted details are done. The stereo is a Kenwood KRC2008 and the face is a custom decal. The burl wood trim is hand painted. The silver paint had worn through the dash trim on my car so I repainted it blue (and the Camaro script) to go with the exterior. I also added the A/C vents and made a non-manual transmission brake pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemodeler Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Continue to be impressed with the build Mark, the details really make this seem like we are looking at your real car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CelticModeler Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Currently working on a 70 myself. Seeing this makes me feel like im barely doing anything to mine. Your whole build is sick. Wish i could make custom parts like this. Where did you get the floor mats from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 Thanks guys.I made the floor mats from scratch. They are a combination of painted vinyl and custom decals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belugawrx Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Nice Nice Mark,...tell us more about the 'dot pattern velour'..This is a cool camaro Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrecker388 Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Very nice Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Nice Nice Mark,...tell us more about the 'dot pattern velour'..This is a cool camaro ManI wish I knew more about it. It has the original factory interior still except for the driver's seat (I have the factory driver seat in storage) and the minor details like trim color and gauges. The dots are actually recessed on the real car, but not enough to try to replicate in this scale.I've never seen another '70-'73 Camaro with the same pattern/material, and thankfully it wears like iron. The car was built during the last week of the '73 production run (according to the VIN) and I found other minor quirks like '74 door locks in side the doors. So I'm guessing it was a late in the year option, (or maybe new one for '74?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belugawrx Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 ....or should I say "how did you reproduce it in 1:twentyfourfifth scale ?..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65slotcar Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 great details and nice work ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Wow. I suck so bad at detailing the dashboards. You have a fine steady hand it seems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 ....or should I say "how did you reproduce it in 1:twentyfourfifth scale ?..... I made decals for the pattern and applied it over a coat of grimy black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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