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    • Dave Ambrose

      General Usage   05/10/2017

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  1. Past hour
  2. Lots of work done yesterday. I got the seats swapped out, cleaned up, and painted (found the 'correct' back seat in one of my Desert Rat CJ-7 kits). Also touched up some details on the dash, firewall, and the frame. Since the axles were 'narrowtrac' axles (as original to my Jeep as well, which I've swapped in 'widetrac' axles on the 1:1), and the Aoshima wheels mount with pins, rather than pegs & caps like the original wheels and axles have, I made some axle tube extensions (sleeves of a sort) out of sprue with small holes for the wheel pins, and larger holes for the axle-side pegs. That also took care of the 'narrowtrac' vs. 'widetrac' dilemma. Wheels are just tossed on for the pic - still gotta make the drums & discs to mount up with the wheels Still gotta paint the winch mount & fairlead, finish the winch, and figure out how to get the fire extinguisher on the roll bar. And finally, I freehanded the SuperSwamper tread pattern I'd masked and sprayed on 1:1 to hide my 'mesquite pin-stripes' from wheelin' out in the sticks over the years. Got some more work to do today. Hopefully get the engine plumbed and wired [maybe] and get it together. Then, I'll need to work out the windshield (and the all-important Mister 4x4 decal) along with the front & rear bumpers and nerf bars.
  3. Loosing Detail

    You probably lost it when you used that primer. I used a general rattle can primer and yeah there meant to give a high build coating. If you do have an airbrush you should spray your primer with that. My advice to avoid using two colors of primer would be to tint the white with some of your red paint, assuming you have compatible paints. One coat to sand an fix any issues then go back over with enough to cover your sand through.
  4. Mack DM600 Dump, Rescue Job, DONE aAfter 30 Years!

    Very nicely done !....your Mack is just full of great looking details all around !
  5. Loosing Detail

    That is what I am thinking also. I am not going for a factory color. I thought the Spaz Stix sounded good because it was "ready to spray" from the bottle.
  6. 69 Corvette 427

    Wow!you turned out a great looking vette!,you definitely picked out some of the details better than I did on my vette!.
  7. Ford LNT 9000

    Great idea for a project Brian !....looking forward to seeing your progress.
  8. What a great combination of colors!!
  9. Loosing Detail

    Personally, at this point, I'd strip and start over. I'd go with one coat of cheap Walmart white primer, then airbrush it with Testors #4 red (if you're going for a factory color). The Spaz Stix doesn't seem to be working for you. That paint buildup around the rear Pontiac nameplate is WAY more than you should have to deal with.
  10. Trade question

    Will start with these 2 lindberg 61 409 Chevy Impalas. One kit is the first issue the one they made the errors on. The other is the revised kit that was corrected. Trying to find my container with the decals for these kits still trying to find things after the move.
  11. Another deFoosed Caddy

    Thanks, Trevor!!!😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🏁
  12. Motorcraft Glidden T-Bird

    Nice build.Really like the red wheels too.
  13. ONCE UPON A TIME..... (game)

    with blackberry wine
  14. Darren The New Mexico state fair still has a model car display, Wow thats where I got the bug to building model cars when I was a kid in the 60's. There must have been over a hundred model cars there behind the glass neat. Tony
  15. How to make seat belts?

    The correct ribbon for seat belts is 1/16" width. I had checked the usual sources like Michael's, Joann's and Walmart and none of them had anything smaller than 1/8". Hobby Lobby wasn't around then so I didn't look there. So I went on eBay and found these. I bought a roll of black, brown, gray and white. I figured the white could be tinted to other colors as needed. This lifetime supply of seat belts was around $10 (my 65 Chevy Pickup) I'll give you two ways to make your buckles. You know those tacky plastic seat belts older kits came with? They may have usable buckles. Some of them are very thick, so carefully sand the backs down to a reasonable thickness. Then cut them off the belts, paint and use with the 1/16" ribbon. I always like to give my seat belts some character by gluing them down at angles that indicate use. (my 29 Ford Pickup) Again, another one using old kit belt ends. (My 29 Ford Roadster) Here's one using photo etch buckles. A bit more realistic results. One big tip- photo etch is really too thin for belt buckles (the female end). I use Evergreen strips the right thickness to add the necessary depth. Glue the buckle to the plastic strip, then cut the edge of the strip to match the photo etch part. Sand edges smooth, then color with silver paint, or best yet your Molotov chrome pen. For those of you who are going to try to cut the belt out of a wider piece of ribbon, ribbon will shred if you attempt to cut it. In order to be successful here, take some white glue, thin it out and cover the back side of the ribbon with it. The glue mixture will soak in. Once dry you can cut it without shredding. For those of you who will make belts out of masking tape, first spray the sticky side with Testors Dull Cote. It will neutralize the glue like it was never there. Hope this is helpful!
  16. AMT Nova from "Thinner" Novel

    Very nice! Looks like you managed to fix most of this kit's most egregious problems in the roof/window post areas. This might be the best build of the AMT Nova I've seen in a long, long time--maybe ever. Wasn't there a movie of this book? Was the car in the movie? ETA: There was a movie, but looks like there was nothing like the book's Nova in it. http://www.imcdb.org/movie.php?id=117894
  17. I am trying to get this Spaz Stix solid red paint on smooth. I put one coat of krylon grey primer and one coat of krylon white primer from a rattle can. Then I airbrushed a lite coat of the red, heavier coat of red, wet-sand, another coat of red, wet sand, another coat of red. This coat, although fairly smooth, has dust or lint in it and needs more sanding. By now I have lost a lot of the detail on the script, mostly from paint build-up, as I tried not to sand it! I have read somewhere on here that some folks sand the script off and just use the decals. I have also read that some put 12 coats of paint on? Should I strip the paint and start over? What do others do to preserve the details?
  18. Glue for thread ?

    Your right I am trying not to have to paint it after it is put on. I do use the Tamyia to soften it, that's how I bent the half round on the front seat. I will make a trip to michaels and see if I can find anything that might be an alternative to thread.
  19. ONCE UPON A TIME..... (game)

    to roast doughnuts
  20. I remember those Uniroyal commercials from around '73/'74. I guess they worked because when we came back from Vancouver Island to New Brunswick by car in '74, dad had put a brand new set of Uniroyal white wall radials on the '68 Electra. I'm wondering how well those Elcamino "Royal Knight" decals will fit the 1/25 MPC kit I have. There's one in the brochure for that year in dark red/burgundy with the red decals that looks great.
  21. ONCE UPON A TIME..... (game)

    a flame thrower
  22. Canadian Hobby Shops

    Yes Mike, the Hobby Depot. Got my streets mixed up.
  23. '61 Falcon Gasser

    Not to hijack neither, just some inspiration. JC, keep us posted, this is gonna be way cool. I love these old Falcons and you don't see them being built often. This is one I converted from a Franklin Mint model that had serious issues. The white stock one is what it started out as. I can't wait to see yours when it's done. I used several parts from the '57 Ford wagon gasser for this build.
  24. 56 300b mild custom

    A couple better pictures
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