cazxr2 Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 Hi there. I always seem to have the same problem kit after kit. I seem to always get glue on the windows when I'm gluing them in. And can never get it off. Am I just dumb or is there a: an easier way of gluing to prevent this happening or b: an easy way to remove the glue? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highway Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 Hi there. I always seem to have the same problem kit after kit. I seem to always get glue on the windows when I'm gluing them in. And can never get it off. Am I just dumb or is there a: an easier way of gluing to prevent this happening or b: an easy way to remove the glue? Thanks Easiest way to both prevent and remove goof ups at the same time is use Elmer's white glue or any other white glue that dries clear for your windows. I have used both Elmer's school glue and Testors window glue (that looks the same as school glue) for windows for many years and have no problems with it. If you get some on the window itself, it will wash off with water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Buck Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 Easiest way to both prevent and remove goof ups at the same time is use Elmer's white glue or any other white glue that dries clear for your windows. I have used both Elmer's school glue and Testors window glue (that looks the same as school glue) for windows for many years and have no problems with it. If you get some on the window itself, it will wash off with water. X2 Pacer "Formula 560" Canopy glue is my favorite for gluing clear plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cazxr2 Posted June 17, 2010 Author Share Posted June 17, 2010 Cool thanks al have to get on eBay looking for it. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 Microscale Krystal Klear - dries clear, cleans up with water and is flexible but strong. Great stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmodeler2 Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 I was going to post this as well, but you beat me to it. It's much thicker than normal white glues, and stronger than most once dry...but because of the viscosity it has more "grip" prior to it drying, so the glass won't slide around. There is a lot less chance getting fingerprints on it from handling to keep the glass in place or from having to keep installing it after it falls out again and again. Also, don't forget (and this is why I use it for all my windows, emblems, lenses, and such), if you don't like what is glued, just put it in water, and the water will resoften it back to glue. Also, if you glue an emblem on and a little bit squishes out from under the emblem, use a wet q-tip to wipe away the excess. Leave the streak and let the part dry. When it's dry (I usually wait till overnight, but it's not necessary), use a q-tip dipped in hot water. Touch you hand first to get off most the water so you don't have water, with it's capillary action, going under your part. For cars painted black, or dark colors, I boil water on the stove, did the q-tip in the water, press it against my palm (there is not enough water or surface area to burn you) and then wipe the model. The warm damp tip will remove ANY residue and your stuff will look super clean. I use this especially when I remove the molded in windshield washer nozzles from the hood, prime, paint, clear and polish and then put them back. It makes your paint look that much nicer and you did not bury them under all that paint and clear. Then take a toothpick. touch a small drop to the hood (a speck really) and put your nozzle back. Let it dry and then clean as directed above. I use it all the time. Great stuff. Sorry for the hijack Mark, but needed to add some positive things since we have been accused of not doing that in other "locked" threads!! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cazxr2 Posted June 18, 2010 Author Share Posted June 18, 2010 No hijacking. It's all good and helpful. Hopfully next model won't have smeared windows now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Sumner Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 After attaching many an airplane canopy, here is what I now do. I dip all "glass" in Future Floor Finish. Then when dry, I attach the "glass" with tiny drops of superglue. The Future prevents the fogging normally associated with using superglue on clear parts and makes for a strong bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 good tips all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1hobby1 Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Going to have to give the Future Clear trick a try as I ruined a window today due to super glue getting on the window. luckily I had a small stash of extra "windows" and was able to shave one down to similar size. Wish I saw this thread earlier A lot of great tips here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Going to have to give the Future Clear trick a try as I ruined a window today due to super glue getting on the window. luckily I had a small stash of extra "windows" and was able to shave one down to similar size. Wish I saw this thread earlier A lot of great tips here. Did you know you can use SuperGlue on windows? Just make sure you buy the Gold (foam safe) type, and for accelerator... "InstaSet" works with the foam safe stuff. Both made by Bob Smith Industries, and I have used both successfully to install windows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I've ruined enough windows, & paint jobs, in my day to give up on super glue for a lot of things. If it's any part that's coming anywhere near the finish, I use glue designed for clear parts. I use Testors, but there's any number of others. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 For years I've been using Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy for most of my gluing and also glass too. It has a strong bond and dries clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I've ruined enough windows, & paint jobs, in my day to give up on super glue for a lot of things. If it's any part that's coming anywhere near the finish, I use glue designed for clear parts. I use Testors, but there's any number of others. Steve Yup. Microscale Krystal Klear - dries clear, cleans up with water and is flexible but strong. Great stuff. Yup yup... or any of the similar PVA glues (polyvinyl acetate) work beautifully. They dry completely clear, and excess cleans up with a damp wipe. No crazing, no fuming, no hassle, no solvent damage, no little kid fingerprints, no BS. Get your clear parts to actually fit. Then tape or otherwise fixture them in position while the PVA glue sets up. The stuff is perfectly strong enough to keep windows, lenses, and other clear parts firmly affixed to a model that's handled by adults with brains, forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1hobby1 Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I have the tamiya ultra thin and it dries clear but, it takes a while for it to dry. Plus it comes with a very convenient cap/brush. So I was impatient, thought I had super glue mastered, and I lost another battle. Next time I'll take my time with the tamiya, or purchase the testors since it's readily available at hobby lobby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I've been using the Testors clear parts cement for a while and I really like it. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Hi all I started using the Micro Liquidtape a while back. It looks like, and applies. same as the Krystal Kleer, except that you apply to only 1 surface then let dry (usually only a few minutes) and you are left with a tacky but dry surface. For window, apply to the window frame and let dry, then press windows in place. Since the adhesive is dry/solid, there is no ooze to clean up. Also it allows you to reposition the windows to get them just right. The stuff has more than enough tack to hold the windows in place. Theo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10thumbs Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Good topic here. Strangely enough, the biggest fear I have in building models is using the glue! I mess up everywhere. I will follow the advice here. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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