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1934 Chevrolet Master 5-Window coupe.


landman

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  • 8 months later...

A couple of days ago there was a photo of two 1934 Chevy's on facebook. The photo was taken in my old hometown in 1942. My uncle purchased the subject of this thread in 1943 in the same town. Do you think it could be........?

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Edited by landman
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  • 7 months later...

Models of the cars we own sometimes seem the hardest.  I'll make you a deal. You get back on this one and I'll get back on the long-dormant 30 Packard Victoria project. What do you say?

I am still waiting for the roof someone is making in Australia. I can't rush him since he's doing it for free.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Your 1:1 is a real head turner and I'm sure it's a pleasure to drive as well.I'm anxious to back my '48 Chevy sedan out of the garage and get on with some street time myself.

Thank you sir. It will be a pleasure to drive later. Currently we're dodging potholes and puddles. The local constabulary might think I spent the afternoon at the bar.B)

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After well over 2 years it is a bit of a challenge to figure where I was at. I'm looking at a few issues that will have to be attended to before I proceed.

The Ford windows still fit in the roof but won't go in once the roof is attached  to the body which will have to happen before the paint. I feel that installing the "glass" before the paint is a risky proposition.So I made patterns for acetate windows.1467285802_Toit(25).JPG.fa471edd3355d0fb58642d1eb651126a.JPG

On October 14 2014, Gary Cook (impcon) suggested that I may have enough room to "correct" the shape of the rear quarter window. Here are the two profiles. I'm going to have to stare at this for a while before I touch it .

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Finally the 1:1 has a distinctive "crease" along the top of the windshield (see Thursday's post). How do I go about copying that?1377678549_Toit(24).JPG.b41b9a7ad7e5dcd2a0d93480b6b22dae.JPG

Edited by landman
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Decided to add and shape rather than try to dig & gouge that "crease" above the windshield.

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Started to reshape the rear window. will need to reconstruct the window reveal usin small rod. will need to redo the drip rail as well.

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Meanwhile, the chassis sits patiently in the shop.

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Edited by landman
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Added more reveals the upper front corner of the passenger side proved a bit much for styrene so I used #20 wire. When I shortened the roof and lengthened it again I mangled the window surrounds pretty good. I pulled the other '34 Ford body to see if I'd rather use it but I have too much work into this one. So fill, sand , file until it is presentable. It is going to be a tedious affair. At least the quarter windows will be more Chevy like even if there is less "roof" behind them.

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Edited by landman
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Window frames and drip edges have always been a problem for me too.I have already ground them off completely from the inside where is was feasible and made whole new separate pieces and inserted them from the inside.Stick with it.This is going to be very nice when done.

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Looking at the 1:1 to get a feel of how far down the dripo molding goes I noticed that the rear roof quarters are smooth. So I filled in the ones on the model.

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Turns out my upper windshield reveal is more pronounced than the real one. May have a long filing & sanding session.

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Edited by landman
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Attached the plastic roof to the diecast body after making sure I can install everything that goes inside from underneath. I had to cut the rear compartment interior pieces in three because it was designed to go in from the top. There is an odd groove/gap where the top meets the body. A look at the 1:1 shows a small belt molding at about that level, so I decided to hide that with some half round which will mimic the molding on the 1:1 if not exactly the same.

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Great looking body work on this coupe. The paint finish on your 1:1 is outstanding.

There's an example of someone who does what he likes and does it well. So much so, that he sold his body shop and works at one where all he does is shoot paint. He couldn't stand the admin and management B.S.

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