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Door & Hood Hinges - Different Ways to Make Them


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#41 charlzrocks

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Posted 04 June 2010 - 07:38 AM

Cool Tute! I'm gonna use it to hinge the engine hatch on my Olds Aerotech. :lol:

#42 Kaleb

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Posted 06 June 2010 - 10:51 AM

Thanks...really lol ive been pondering how these things work and they are as clear as relays when I tried to figure out how they worked.

#43 diymirage

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 06:47 AM

very nice write up


you know, if you would replace the solid mount with a second pipe you basically got a flip flop hinge

theres a how to here for flip flop hinges

http://www.modelcars...showtopic=28665

#44 JamesW

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 07:16 AM

Thanks kindly! I think that I have a grasp on the process so far. Now, would you be so kind as to get into how to actually construct the 3 dimensional door with the inner door panel attached? :D

X2, jambing the door is where I get confused.

#45 bob29579

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 06:04 AM

Very simple and easy to understand. Thanks. Greg.

#46 charlzrocks

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 05:33 PM

Wow, it works very good!! Thanks!!

#47 CustomFerrari

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Posted 14 June 2010 - 05:31 AM

about to try on a ford gt

#48 Janne Herajärvi

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Posted 14 June 2010 - 11:28 AM

Thank you, Very nice and simple way :)

#49 wayneman

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 04:34 PM

Great! This is good stuff and I an thinking of hingeing a camaro I am working on. I know most folks probably know how to cut the door out, but would it be best to use a scribing tool or just work slowly with an exacto knife. Yours was really clean. Thanks for the info!

#50 Romell R

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 05:29 AM

Great! This is good stuff and I an thinking of hingeing a camaro I am working on. I know most folks probably know how to cut the door out, but would it be best to use a scribing tool or just work slowly with an exacto knife. Yours was really clean. Thanks for the info!


Ive never used scribbing tools although I have heard the good and bad about them, its really a matter of personal preferance. the back of an exacto is what i use. And sometimes I'll use the two kit method but that gets exspensive (but I believe its the best way). thx for your question ;)

Edited by Aftashox, 18 June 2010 - 05:31 AM.


#51 MrObsessive

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 05:51 AM

Romell, that looks good! A little different than the way I do it, which is good because my method's more complex! B)

Yes, an exacto blade is what I use practically all the time, as scribing tools never work well for me (takes too long)------and I can't do the model between the knees bit with the string!

There would be nothing to build after it gets crushed! ;)


#52 bigmikevee

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 07:00 PM

Romell,

Thanks for the tip, clear and precise, I have to try on a future build, looking forward to seeing how you construct the door. I tried a scriber to open a project that got put away (for the time being) and it just seemed to cut wider as I cut deeper, so finished with the back of exacto blade, worked great, just have to be patient and let blade do the work. Would a variation of this work for hoods and trunks or do you do something completely different for those?

Did Mr. Obsessive do a hood & trunk hinge write-up, I have his article on the door hinges in my magazine collection. Thanks.

Mike

#53 Romell R

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:28 AM

Romell,

Thanks for the tip, clear and precise, I have to try on a future build, looking forward to seeing how you construct the door. I tried a scriber to open a project that got put away (for the time being) and it just seemed to cut wider as I cut deeper, so finished with the back of exacto blade, worked great, just have to be patient and let blade do the work. Would a variation of this work for hoods and trunks or do you do something completely different for those?

Did Mr. Obsessive do a hood & trunk hinge write-up, I have his article on the door hinges in my magazine collection. Thanks.

Mike

Hey Mike thx for your comment and compliment. as for the hood and trunk lids I still use the tube and wire but in a different setup its also very simple to do and works very well. Maybe I'll do a write up on it. :rolleyes:

#54 Romell R

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:36 AM

Romell, that looks good! A little different than the way I do it, which is good because my method's more complex! :lol:

Yes, an exacto blade is what I use practically all the time, as scribing tools never work well for me (takes too long)------and I can't do the model between the knees bit with the string!

There would be nothing to build after it gets crushed! :rolleyes:

I totally agree with you there would be no model left and that darn string is always breaking. When I want to get a super fine fit with doors I'll use the two kit method, where you use one kit to get the doors, trunk, hood, gas filler door ,and whatever other parts you might need. You basically trash that one. And do the exact opposite the the other body. Then sand all parts down to the kit scribe lines. Talk about perfect fitting parts. The draw back though is it can be exspensive. :P

Edited by Aftashox, 19 June 2010 - 06:38 AM.


#55 MrObsessive

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 05:43 AM

Did Mr. Obsessive do a hood & trunk hinge write-up, I have his article on the door hinges in my magazine collection. Thanks.

Mike


No, I never wrote an article on hinging hoods and trunks..........may do one in the future though! ;)

Using an Exacto blade should work just as well for cutting the trunk open----------patience is the key here however as with anything else.


#56 Karmodeler2

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 06:52 AM

--and I can't do the model between the knees bit with the string!

There would be nothing to build after it gets crushed! ;)


I use the string method and it does take a little bit of time, but it cuts a thin line. If you have the "Flex-O-File" "U" shaped sanding tools (available from Micro Mark), you can tie your string to the two ends, similar to a wood coping saw. I actually used a coping saw once, with the blade removed, and the string in place of the blade. It frees up a hand so you don't have to hold the model between your legs.

Also, to cut down on cost, instead of two kits, cut out your parts, and then use a strip of Evergreen of about .020 X .020 (Or more if you need it) and glue it flat to the edge of the door with Tenex7R or the like, let it sit for an hour or so and then you can file and sand it to fit the opening. I soak the joint in the glue so that it softens the door plastic and the evergreen plastic. The Evergreen will melt the quickest, so I focus the glue more on the door. As it softens, you can push your strip into the door and it will actually "squish" plastic out of the seam like glue from under a part when you press to hard. If you allow this to dry, you can sand it just like bondo and in most cases there is no seam, or one that will be covered in primer. You can do the same for the opening and file & sand it too. Much cheaper than cutting two kits. The gap does not have to be that tight because your primer-base-clear will add some to it. And you do need a gap.

If your door is curved and you can't get your 20X20 strip to match the contour, stand your door on it's edge on a piece of Evergreen sheet and glue it the the sheet standing up. Then trim and file away what you don't want using the same method above.
David

#57 sweptline64

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Posted 07 July 2010 - 02:08 PM

wow this is something i've been wanting to learn how to do for a long time. now my only question is how do you deal with the interior side of the door and the door jambs? have you writen anything on that subject yet? also what about trunk and hood hinges? keep up the good work and thanks for a good how to article.

#58 rdgracer71

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 08:47 PM

ive open the doors before and the trunk to.....

see take a look....

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they can be a headache at times ..but i think they make the model better...

#59 rdgracer71

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 08:53 PM

heres one im working on now

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#60 Romell R

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Posted 17 July 2010 - 07:34 AM

Glad to see that this has been a help. :rolleyes: