bobss396

Got it... how about Zinsser stain block primer? I've used it on water stained dry wall. Or silver paint? Practice on some scrap first.

I looked around my usual 3D printed sites for a 4-barrel intake manifold for a a Ford flathead with no results. Does anyone know if one exists? The alternative is to make one up. Which should not be difficult. Plans are to use a 3D Predator carb and a batwing air cleaner. Thanks!

Which is the basis of GT& D. Geometric Tolerancing and Dimensioning. I have taken a few courses in it... every single one is guaranteed to be close to a fist fight by the last lesson or 2...

I'm following the HAMB model car thread and ran across this astonishing build. Total killer. I have one in mind and am gathering parts for it. So far I have Modelhaus wide whites, some old Lancer hub caps, a Norm Veber Carson top, F&F cruiser skirts, a bunch of flathead goodies. I have to sift thru my lake pipes stash. I de-chromed the bumpers and will shoot them with Revell chrome spray.

I did one... well started one 15 years ago as a stock car. I took it out a few years back and stripped the paint, shot it in white... had decals adhesion issues... BACK IN THE BOX!! I was able to open the wheel openings so the wheelbase was not an issue. But the rest of it was a major fit exercise. The rear chrome bumper I have to revisit, now we have a decent chrome spray to help that.

Good question. Whatever you do, it will take more than one coat. Maybe start with a light gray like Tamiya has and then their white over that.

The old Modelhaus T170 is a very wide white. In a drag slick, the T130 is a good match up. Norm Veber had some great WW tires. I can take some pictures if it helps.

My buddy had a hot Bullitt Mustang that I eventually owned. So one night we went over to the Conduit in Queens, he figured on making a few bucks. We get there early.. it was already jammed with cars coming in on trailers... serious racers. We just sat and watched.

It was big by me into the late 1970s. The cops hassled it out of existence. After losing my license 2x, I discovered the world of stock cars and never looked back. Big buck grudge racing was a big thing in the early to mid 1990s. I live close to a big highway and they would roll pro stock type cars off trailers and run. Mostly around 2 or 3 am. They had blocker cars to slow or stop traffic behind them. We would hear them and watch from the bedroom windows. Every now and then, the cops showed up. Everyone split fast. There would often be 20 + cars just watching. The race cars went first, haulers and spectators were next.

I usually make up provisions to pin engines and transmissions in place. Or add something to the mounts or make my own.

No pictures but last night was OLIVE GARDEN! We beat the crowd, got there by 4:15 and were seated right away. Bread sticks, big bowl of salad to start and a 22 ounce beer for me. My girlfriend had a ravioli dish, I had spaghetti and sausage. They have those $6 to-go deals, I got 2 with meat sauce. Before the tip, the total was $68. And we had leftovers too.

I have some old stalled builds like that. One is a Lindberg '34 truck and another is a resin '30 Ford chopped coupe. I shelved them maybe 15 years ago due to not having enough goodies for them. Now with better parts available, like 3D stuff, I have to dig them out.

Thanks all! I picked up a smaller chain last night that may work. I'll keep in mind the Micro Mark chain and the ship one. I can stop at Michael's too. I have some small brass pins I use quite a bit. The pin part measures .020" and the head should be okay.

Got some junk parts to practice on? Of course those always come out perfect...

I have a couple of pick up trucks in the works and wondered if anyone has tips for making tailgate chains. I started making a set using Detail Master side-terminal battery terminals and some 30 awg wire... but it is hard to work with. I have some craft store chain, but I need something smaller. Or I can skip this Detail completely. Thanks!