bobss396

This looks great. My only complaint is the trim across the middle of the door. It will make it harder to decal a logo on it. I will definitely want at least 2 of them.

Got the wheel well fixed. Putty is next. Clearance the crossmember for the exhaust. Pipes are roughed out and made a side exit plate. I have to box off an area on the floor pan.

I saw it, awesome to say the least. I will post a picture later from my phone.

I'm working on 1 car at a time right now.. see how long that lasts. If I have some common tasks, I will combine the efforts. I'm adding some more bars to the cage on the '51 and decided to run the exhaust up through the floor and out behind the passenger door. I also have to fudge the rear wheel opening on one side, remove about .060" from the rear and add the same to the front. This is why I pin things together, imagine finding that after paint....

This was one class that permitted cow 🐄 catchers, to a point. Almost always angle iron and black pipe. I'm considering door bars and maybe 2 bars from the cage to the chassis rails.

Figure 8 drivers are another breed. We had one guy who looked like Barney Rubble. We pitted away from them, too much chaos when they would pit for repairs. A few guys became great modified drivers.

Back on the bench. The Chevy 6 fits well. I had to make more clearance on the floor. I made a mount for the rear bumper yesterday. And got a few things painted. I added 2 pieces of angle stock on the firewall as a stop. Also 2 mounting blocks in the trunk, these are pinned to the chassis so it goes back together the same way every time. I mounted the interior to the chassis to make assembly easier. Next will be final chassis prime, install the radiator frame and get some gauges going for the dash. I still may hinge the trunk lid.

VCG Resins has a Bronco upgrade kit, he has other Bronco items as well. A very god place to deal with. https://www.vcgresins.com/shop/p/revell-ford-bronco-upgrade-kit

I am a total crack 'ho for anything tow truck/car carrier related. It would be cool if someone just issued a complete bed. So far any resin or 3D printed ones I have bought and or looked at are not up to my standards.

I have one I put away 20 years ago, converted it to a tow truck. I had issues like you did with getting the roof to look decent. I will call the engine very well detailed for something that comes out of a kit. I recently dug it up again, it will be back in work soon.

I sometimes leave material for little tabs when I am making up "glass". This gives a bond surface away from what will be visible. Some plastics bend better than others. I'm now using something from Hobby Lobby that is .015" thick and will hold a bend. I just unwrapped a new dress shirt and of course saved the pins (great for shifters) and the little clear plastic part that supports the collar.

I used to have lathe access at work until 2005, I had a buddy with a Hardinge at his shop I could also use. He would run me things on one of his big CNC lathes at times. He would take my CAD drawings/files and make a hard task easy. I am at the point where I NEED a small lathe soon.

I hoard up any wheel-backs that I come across, they come in handy for adapting odd wheels on a build. On the one-piece wheels, I saw off that "factory" nub or cut it way down.

I have used the clear pearl (TS-65) over white primer with success. The effect is the same in the end.

I started using paper clips and staples, which are not even close to being round items. Then onto floral wire which is strong enough and cheap. I use a lot of .093" Evergreen tubing that has an .048" hole thru it. I can use plastic or brass rod to make strong joints. In general my go-to metal items are 1/32" and 3/64" brass rod. I have a few lengths of .031" stainless steel pins that come in handy. Most used lengths are 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4".