The Forums will be down, Friday, November 24th starting 8 AM PST for upgrade.We'll probably be down until 1PM PST, but it might be longer. I'm doing a major forum software upgrade, so I expect the forums to operate somewhat differently when we come back online.
Hey Dan, my experience with wood lined trailers, is pretty much dry vans, but thier doors do have wood cores, but aluminum skins on BOTH sides. My thoughts are because of the increases in exposure to weather, when open, the wood core needs to be protected, as much as possible. Dry vans frequently stand on docks, for extended periods of time, in all weather conditions, and exposed plywood would begin to degrade quickly. It also adds to the rigidity of the door, which flex a great deal more than refer doors, with all thier insulation. As far as moving vans, I can see arguments for both. Wood, being softer, absorbs impacts from large home furnishings, lessening the chance of surface damage to the cargo, and will not transfer aluminum residue from abrasions. But, all the same reasons for dry vans still apply, but a lesser degree concerning the weather rot. Beg bug trailers are only open when loaded and unloaded. My first choice, for what it is worth, would be to go with wood. It would be both functional for the trailer type, and look way cool on the model. Builder's choice best applies here.
Just adding the monthly check in. I want to thank all for the kind words of encouragement and interest. They are greatly appreciated. I have made some progress, The White drop rail frame, with the correct cross members, and corrected front springs is together. This weekend, the cab floor / doghouse is being constructed. Took one of the Revell snap 3406 engines and built an aftercooler, removed the molded in starter, and made belt pulleys for individual belts. Hope to have pictures soon. Happy modeling.
Rick, go for it! There are some great reference photos on any image search, and there is valuable info at Whiteroadcommander.de, the form of many brochure scans. If you have a KFS resin kit, it makes it so much easier. I found, at the website, the BBC measurements for all three hood lengths. The long hood version I am doing, is 152 inches. That calculates to 160 millimeters in 1/24th scale. The cab itself, has a 88 inches, front to back, and 15 mm narrower. The sides of my hood measure 72 millimeters, and the trailing edge is about 3 to 4 millimeters away from the cab front /firewall. Add 2 mm to the front and if I remember, 14 or 15 mm to the rear of the wedge, added to the AMT Road Boss hood. Add 6 mm to the side, above the fenders. The longest sections of the AMT hood, will need to be shortened a little over 8 mm. This is the paint job mine is going to get. Oh, FYI, Detail Master has a photo etched, rectangular grille mesh that is super close to the grille on the RB, and RB2. Good luck, keep us posted!