Hey Mark, thanks for the kind words. They are decals, my hands are not that steady anymore, They were the ones that fit the best off of the Can-Do wrecker decal sheet. One of the ones I have yellowed, badly, completely unsuitable for most colors. I figured, some real close trimming, and over black, they might work.
Richard, I don't think Anthony is nit picking, at least I hope not. I think he was expanding on another aspect of the trucking industry, as awhole. Air ride is, probably, the single, biggest game-changer to come along. So much so, Freightliner had to buy it's way into that game. I did not get into that because I was aware of how long winded I can get when hisory and trivia start rolling, and that is reall long post already.
You do make a valid point. Let's just enjoy the hobby we have managed to bring with us to this point. I just hope nobody decides not to participate based on their peticular likes and dislikes.
I may be wrong, and Clayton, please put me in my place if I am, but when I read "show trucks" and "no weathering", I took that to mean, if it is old, make your build look like a restoration, not like it was rode hard and put up wet, or, if you like low pros, full fenders, and wild paint, go to it.
Personally, the variety would be welcome. Use your skills to build the best representation of what floats your boat, then show it off to the rest of us. Just my perspective.
I would like to take a moment to address the concerns Sam and Anthony posed. Personal preferences should figure into this type of situation. You also have to take into consideration that even geographical differences factor into preferences. West of the Mississippi, especially out here on the high plains,
dominant makes, on the east coast, like Mack, Brockway, and Autocar were just words and pictures in Overdrive magazine. The local Freightliner dealer had sales locked up in parts of 5 states. Only a stray bull hauler from Montana ever drove a Pete. I grew up in the '70s, around a group of Owner / Operators in a small fleet for a grocery wholesaler. Except for 1 Diamond Reo, everylast one drove Freightliner cabovers. To this day, the FLA is still my favorite truck. They were a competitive bunch, who ran the most miles, who's truck is the cleanest, who had the most bling on their new truck, and so on. What they found out, along the way, was that, things like aluminum wheels, tanks, and battery / storage boxes, replacing the heavy, steel components and spoke or steel disc wheels put more money in their pockets over the life of the truck. This fundamentally changed, especially for O/Os, what was acceptable regarding appearance. Reliable functionality was no longer enough. Think about it, it is almost human nature to like bling. I mean, everyone has a ...ooooo sshhhiiiiinnnnyyy.... Moment from time to time. All that being said, I would like you to take a look at KJ Humphrey's last couple of builds. They wear spokes, and are GORGEOUS. Ultimately, I think the voters would see that all the bling in the world can't save a model with horrible build quality. I say that, just because you march to the beat of a different drummer, does not mean you cannot be an important part of the parade. Personally, I do like fancy, working trucks, not show only, never hooked to a trailer, always sit on carpet trucks. That does not stop me from respecting the work that got it there. I will build what I like, and let the votes fall were they may. I hope you do the same. I think this endeavor would be the better for it.
I like the way you think. Some of us build much slower than others, the realities of life demands time away from the work bench, as we all know. As far as finished builds, there are two schools of thought. First, bring it on. Competition is always good. This could turn into a popularity contest of previous posts, however. Second, specifically for this contest gets more new builds posted keeps models that may have competed other places out of the running. It makes everyone have to do the same work. Basic assembly, paint and bodywork, detailing and final assembly. You could stipulate under construction as of your first post and set the deadline when ever. I personally like The end of September. Even that late, I will be hard pressed to make it, even as bad as I want to be in this. Not that I need motivation to build, but this could be the fire lit in the right place to keep me dedicated. You could limit the voters to non-contestants voting only. Straight up vote getting is a great idea. No categories to worry about, most votes
wins. Make the post the ballot box itself, 1 post / vote per member, easy to track. I got to quit typing and start sanding, darnit. Even without the calendar carrot dangling, which is a very cool, by the way, just the idea of this, has me chomping at the bit.
Just my 2 cents,
If the Euro trucks are similar to U.S. trucks, 1, the largest, is from the tank to the filter, or filters, then to the pump. Then one is the return line from the pump back to the tank. The injector pump operates at a pressure and volume level that the engine cannot use it all, so the extra fuel has to be returned to the tank(s). The last one could be representing the shielded section of the wiring harness for the sending unit to the fuel gauge. Without seeing this peticular set-up, hard to say for sure.
You're welcome. 1 last thing I should mention, if it is over-thinned, it will pull away from edges. Just make it a little thicker. Works like a charm. Oh ya, you can use it to seal hard to mask areas on bodies and cabs where tape does not want to conform, rivets, drip rails and such. Cuts with an xacto very well for crisp edges too.
The method I found to work very well is brush on mask. You can buy the bottle of MicroMask, or, go to the Dollar store nod get a bottle of Elmer's Glue. Thin the Elmer's with water or Windex until it is like enamel ready to brush paint. Then cover the painted spokes with the mask. Let dry thoroughly, and paint the rim. When the paint is dry enough to handle, just peel the mask off the spokes. If any mask is left, it comes off with just water and a stiff bristled paint brush. I have used this very method to protect molded in Peterbilt emblems on the Revell and AMT hoods so the will foil up with greater detail. To make the mask easier to peel, put on 2 or 3 coats. The thicker it is, the easier it will pull out of the nooks and crannies of the spokes and lug detail. It is super easy, cheap and quick. It works for enamel, acrylic, and lacquer paints. Protects chrome on grilles, small details on dashes, all kinds of things.
I think you will like this method as much as I do.