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Just that it stopped functioning the way it had been - Badger never tells you what the problem was; so, I can't be more specific. I never used Ammonia to clean any of my brushes. I use Lacquer Thinner and Simple Green. BTW, the Revolution is the same size as the Patriot (.5mm). I will have to check the inside of my Patriot and let you know...

Tell us more about Totally Awesome - what is it? Is it similar to Simple Green? Is it environmentally-friendly? etc., etc.

I tried Amazon for this lye and came up empty. However, they did list 1lb of "Pure Lye Drain Opener" at $10.20 which seemed a decent substitute, for those who are interested.

I agree! I recently got fed up with my Badger Patriot, which had broken down too often and too soon after repairs. Invested in an Iwata Revolution and have had no problems with it - for longer than my Patriot! Also, because it is a bit more expensive, you'll notice the difference inside the bowl - if you see chrome, you have a better airbrush that is easier to clean because paint has more problems adhering to the smooth, shiny finish, than it does brass. Also, in addition to the type mentioned by Bill (dual/gravity) I would also recommend dual/siphon feed - it is great when you need to spray more than a cup of paint at one sitting, and that happens to me when I want to do a body. With a gravity cup, when you run out of paint, you're adding paint to drying paint inside the cup, and that could lead to adding trash to your finish. The alternative is to clean after every cup is sprayed.

Are you sure you don't mean "Ceramcoat"? Regardless, it is an acrylic used in crafting and unless you use it strictly on interiors, it isn't going to be very durable.

That's what I do, except when the part comes out with some of the varnish already gone... then, I'm forced to remove the rest because the part has to be perfectly smooth to get a good final finish on it. I figure the manufacturer applied the varnish to get a smooth finish for their chrome.

Because it's really a 2-part epoxy... and there are many other types of products in JB Weld's lineup, but to me, the epoxy putty would be the way to go on this "fix". (checked their website for the info...)

Thanks for the info, guys!

Just curious but I noticed your answers about this product, and I honestly thought it was just a liquid cement... Is it more like a "liquid plastic"?

I'm one of those "some people"... I love my food dehydrator, and use it with all of my hobby projects - I make this distinction because I had found that when using real automotive lacquers or enamels, they were apparently not made to respond well to confined warmth - the top dries almost instantly, but leaves a barrier for the layers underneath so that they never really do cure!

Did you apply all 5 coats in one session? If so, I think you should give it overnight and check it for softness in an area where you won't notice if you leave a fingerprint...

Scale Finishes is "acrylic enamel"... MCW is "acrylic lacquer" - yes, both are used on cars. I don't think they are anything like Tamiya... or Testors, for that matter...

Do any of you guys know why Revell discontinued this kit - was there something wrong with it?

I thought the yellow coating was varnish! Yes?

I've stopped using my airbrush for priming - especially the ones with micro-fillers - they really gum up the airbrush. If I have to prime, I do so right out of a spray can. (I don't do a lot of priming because I use lacquers and they can almost act like primers on the first coat). I've used Tamiya and Model Master and they both work well.

Starting with an average size 1:1 spark plug wire (8mm), divide by 25 and you get .32mm, which is very close to 1/64th inch. Use 1/32nd for your boot.

Didn't know that... thanks for the tip!

OK - I've got about 5 of them on hand, and use them all during a big session (like framing a windshield and other trim)... as one seems to dry out, I take the next one, and they're all standing cap-down to keep the ink at the tip.

OK - I could do that! Thanks for letting me know!

Whoa... what's your secret? Do you apply only one coat? That's when I have the most problems - when I try to recoat - you would think it'd just take more silver and turn shiny again, but that's not been my experience...

And yet, I believe Testors Metalizers are also lacquer-based. By the way, when it comes to Alclad, I love their Polished Aluminum, but their Chrome just doesn't have the same durability.

I use a silver Sharpie all the time, for detailing the knobs on black dashboards, etc., but I hafta tell you - it may go on looking silver, but the metallic look doesn't last, and it rapidly become a shiny gray... aw... maybe just gray...

Testors #1451 Buffing Aluminum Plate comes in a rattle can. In regard to handling... I've never tried this before, but perhaps you could paint the body but wait to buff it until after it's fully assembled???

You know... looks can be deceiving... that perfectly smooth area might have a ton of very small scratches that aren't even visible to a casual look-see. That's why the guys recommend a thin primer coat - because that will reveal where the problems are. I prefer not using a scratch-filler primer though, because you want to see the scratches, not hide them. And scratch-filler primer is going to be thicker and could hide small details.

I'm still working on my AMT Camaro, and the header-to-tailpipes was fairly easy because the tailpipes had 2 pins that were supposed to line up with holes in the body - 1 connection had to be modified since the header wound up too close to the tail pipe. The problem that needed a different kind of fix was the other one - the header wound up being about an 8th of an inch from the tailpipe. I tried some Light-Cured Putty by Tamiya to fill this gap. The photo shows the cured putty between the header and the tail pipe. I was able to smooth and remove excess putty with a Q-Tip. The putty didn't start curing until I placed it close to a fluorescent desk lamp and left it there for a few minutes. Just needs some silver paint!