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Everything posted by fseva

  1. What's not to like?! I wish my builds were as good as your "four day Chevy adventure"!
  2. No, sorry... but the color chip can be found at http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive-Paint/House-of-Kolor-Paint-Kandy-Basecoats-KBC/...
  3. Floquil was the main line of paints for The Floquil Corp. before they were sold to Testors. It was their solvent-based paint... guess you could have referred to them as "enamels" - they were all flat. Several companies have been in the process of releasing replacements: Tru-Color Paint, Micro-Mark, and even Testors has brought some of the generic colors back under either the Testors or Model Master brands.
  4. Yes! I recently tried Brandywine over white primer, and it worked great! This is one of their basecoat Kandies, which I think means that they don't absolutely need a metallic base first... they're a combination of Kandie and Pearl.
  5. I saw on the website that they were working on one. I did some testing of a clear that Jameston sent to me with an order... Had a lot of trouble with it - several coats over a pearl or metallic and I started to get what looked to be "frost" in patches - not all over. I eventually just went back to good old One-Coat Clear by Testors.
  6. I can only speak about White, but I've gone through a few choices and have found that Lifecolor is the best - they make a flat and a gloss, and they're the only ones I'll use for brush painting. Same goes for 3 blacks (matt, satin, gloss). BTW, I really love Lifecolor's paint packaging... they have a small round "plug" molded into the cap, that keeps most of the paint away from the rim when you shake the jar. I usually work right out of this little "dimple" - it's like a little palette. Sure wish Testors would upgrade their stuff.
  7. So, would you say that if you have Micro-Solv, it will do the same job as the solutions by Mr. and Tamiya?
  8. I personally don't think you'll have much choice... in other words, these are all produced independently, and because there's so much expense involved in designing and making them, if there's already a set out there, no one will attempt to do a competing set that will just have its potential for future sales already inhibited. Regardless of the situation, imho if you can find a set by Model Car Garage, you should probably just buy it... you can be assured that it is a very good set, because MCG does not make garbage.
  9. Don't start to think that a 50:50 ratio will ALWAYS do the trick for craft paint... it's a good starting point, but I have tried 50:50 and found that I still needed more thinner, to get it through my airbrush and atomize well.
  10. I just thought of an interesting point... last time I checked out Micro-Scale's website, I could not find "Micro-Set" anywhere! It seems as if the company has retired it, and now they're only making Micro-Solv! If you can find Micro-Set at your LHS, it's probably older stock...
  11. I picked up some Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, thinking that it would be stronger on the tough decals, but to be perfectly honest, I didn't see it doing anything at all. I was at first worried that it would dissolve the decals, but after using it several times, it isn't any better than Micro-Sol. BTW, Micro-Set is a "before decaling" application, that's supposed to set up the surface to receive the decals. I don't think it does anything after applying them...
  12. Wow - now there's something you won't see every day!
  13. Here's a "tankless" compressor that has the specs... according to Amazon.com... This tankless airbrush compressor delivers excellent power (1/5 horse) with very little noise (55 db) thanks to its precision-forged piston. Sensitive, diaphragm regulator with integrated pressure gauge and water-trap allows precise control and delivery of clean, dry air. On-demand operation; the compressor runs until its pressure reaches approximately 58 psi, then it cycles off until the pressure drops to 40 psi, where the unit restarts. This auto-start/stop feature saves power and reduces motor wear & heat wh
  14. That's pretty good! I'll have to check out their website and see if I can find a printed statisic... Well, that was disappointing - you'd think such a thing would be at least mentioned by the mfr! Here's all that Paasche had to say, "D3000R 1/8 HP Compressor with Tank, Regulator and Moisture Trap. 1/8 H.P. tank mounted piston compressor with regulator & moisture trap. The tank fills to 40 PSI and shutoff. Will deliver up to 20-30 PSI depending on airbrush being used. Noise level is 47 dbs." I would have liked to see "fills to 40psi and then refills again at 20psi"... that is what seems t
  15. Not always... setting solutions are helpful when "flat" decals are not conforming well to "curved" or "uneven" surfaces. You can try other things first... such as applying a towel soaked in warm/hot water to the area. Some folks swear that Future, when applied before decals, will help them adhere/conform better, but I've never tried this one myself. Recently though, I found that even after many applications of Micro-Sol, I still had parts of a decal that simply would not conform, and I wound up slitting them so that they could fold over themselves, and that way they conformed, but with an obvi
  16. I just put some wheels/backers together - they're the type that have alignment holes which are then matched to "dimples" on the backer. This alignment process can take a couple seconds, but Weld-On 3 allowed that, and after a few seconds more, they were ready to be inserted into the tires.
  17. Just curious - from a full tank of air, how long will it stay off - just guesstimate...
  18. I have found Tenax the very best of the hobby solvents. The mfr just recently brought the product back out of "retirement". Another great deal is Weld-On 3 which is available in 4oz cans on Amazon. I personally think it works faster than Tenax, and it has become my go-to solvent. However, the metal can it comes in can be a hassle. So, I invested in a metal funnel so that I can pour from the can into the smaller glass bottles I saved... and I also have a brush in one that makes applying WO3 an easy process. (It's one of the larger bristle brushes).
  19. The filters can't catch everything or they'd be so dense, no air would go through either!
  20. Bill, I was able to do this in "my signature" and "about me", but when I copied the link to "Personal Website", the link code was automatically translated into text so that either I got "My Gallery" with no link or a 3-line truncated address. I believe that this is something a moderator would have to fix, to make this URL look at an entry as "rich text" rather than plain text. Regardless, thanks for trying!
  21. This is a part of the edit profile feature - my personal website URL is truncated over 3 lines, and is not clickable (to allow a user to click on the link and go right to the site). Is there any way that I can make this a link rather than requiring users to copy the entire 3 line URL and enter it into the address bar of a browser?
  22. I have used Model Master and Testors, which start out in spray cans - I decant for airbrushing, and sometimes will spray direct from the can after the hard-to-reach areas have been hit with the airbrush. I have also used Duplicolor Perfect Match in spray cans (again, I decanted them, but I do believe they are available in larger quantities if you want to spend the money (this is what pro shops would use). However, I recently had another disaster with Duplicolor and have decided there are just too many things that can go wrong with them, and have moved on. My most recent experiments were with H
  23. Were you aware that some of these products are enamel-based? They do have an odor that can be offensive to some users, and I have a feeling that this odor is a good sign of a higher level of toxicity. So, if you spray them outside, you'll be OK, but in a confined space, this might be more harmful than other types.
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