fseva

I haven't tried them, but I have checked out the website, and from what I can see, these are "acrylic lacquers" (they are referred to as airbrushable lacquers and they offer an "acrylic thinner" to go with them. I think they could be a competitor to Duplicolor, with their exact match to car offerings, but for imported cars only so far.

And if you don't want to spend the money, you can just use a fresh blade in your X-Acto knife on the seams - instead of cutting, you just hold it at a very low angle to the seam and scrape rather than cut.

That looks really nice and . . . texturey... Say, I notice you have a mat on top of the driver's side floor - the one thing I always missed was the nicely engraved mats that are in most cars (they are hidden by the EP - oh sure, you can mask around it, but then it looks like the mat is below the top of the carpet). Where did you get yours?

My Camaro's windshield had lots of reverse pressure against the bottom edge, because the top edge had locator tabs/dimples - that was a breeze just with Jewel-It. I tried Jewel-It alone on the bottom edge, but because of the reverse pressure, it kept lifting, even after 3 mintues of holding it down. So, I used Bob Smith's Gold CA and Insta-Set - absolutely no fogging, and the windshield hasn't budged, even after final assembly!

Stevenson's on eBay has the 16oz spray can for $22.95!

What would you dip it in to remove the unwanted paint? I haven't had much success with the stuff available in the house...

Gawd... I'm ready for the handcuffs, matey!

I use "removable adhesive putty". It comes in small quantities and can be cut to any size you like. Once you have a ball of this stuff on your part so that it's not obscuring anything you want to receive paint, just stick a toothpick into it and that acts as your handle.

I decided long ago to save some green by using EP for only convertibles... otherwise, you'd never see it.

If you notice some of the grains don't adhere because the glue dried prematurely in that area, just add some of the EP in the hole, and follow with a little bit of "wetted" glue... This is a model railroad term (used in "wetted water") that means a detergent has been added to the water to break up surface tension. This will allow the glue to flow throughout the damaged area. Also, if you start your project by painting the floor first, you can eliminate some problems with small divots loosening up later - when they do, the paint will show through, and it won't hardly be noticeable. Choose a color of paint that as closely as possible matches the color of the EP.

I think you have to use their "foam safe" (Gold or Gold+) CAs to get the no-fogging benefits...

I wonder... I've always had problems installing windshields, and nothing I'm currently using is that great if it could be replaced by something better!

Hmmm... I can see that the kit would not be referred to as a "new tooling", then. By the way, did Foose really design the wheels or did he just select a set that Revell had already used in another kit?

So, would the Foose version be considered a "new tooling"?

Not really... here is the exact wording from Model Roundup... "This newly tooled Revell kit features a highly detailed Turbo-Jet 396 V-8 with a four speed standard transmission. The interior is equipped with front bucket seats and center console. Unlike it's AMT predecessor of the same subject, the new Revell kit implements detailed front and rear suspension, and the tires are capped with stock-style wheel covers with spinners. The kit appears bone stock, however, decals with stock factory and custom graphics are included. The kit is molded in white, clear and transparent red with chrome plated parts and soft black tires." Here's what the nationally published review said,"Revell’s new 1966 Impala SS has been one of the missing links in our Chevy chain for a long time. I was pleasantly surprised when I heard about its arrival, and quickly grabbed two of the kits. As soon as I got them home, I checked them against Revell’s 1965 Impala and one of my personal original AMT 1966s; they aren’t the same. I thought maybe someone had used the 1965 molds and revised them. No sir: it’s new tooling." Hope this helps explain why I'm still scratching my head...

I was wondering if this little product could replace plastic putty for repairing models, filling gaps in models, etc. It is not a glue - it is "liquid plastic" that after application cures in 4 seconds with a tiny UV light (LED included in the device). Starter kit is around $22-$24.

Hmmm... Model Roundup says that the 66 is "newly tooled" (http://www.modelroundup.com/product-p/rmx-4250.htm). Robin Bittner's review (a subscriber's extra published 12/22/10) says it's "new tooling".

Remember, I said "less than 2oz"... as in at least 1/4oz! Oh well, it's still a deal compared to Testors Metalizers, which you'd have to buy 4 of to get 2oz. Testors should offer a 2oz bottle of their best lacquers, like they did for their Aztek acrylic line!

Oh, is that the way it works?

I just decanted a TS-38 Gunmetal and got LESS than 2oz of paint! The cans are supposed to contain 100ml (3.38oz). Did I get a bad can?

In reference to the 1:1 cars - is there any major differences between the 65 and 66 Impala's? (I am thinking of trying the 66 kit, because it's supposed to be a "new tool").

Hmmm... since the dash sits into the side panels and it fit perfectly there, I doubt that's the problem. There are 2 small dimples in the body that I had perfectly inset into holes in the package shelf extensions, and this didn't work - I had to remove the tub and lost the aligning dimples in the process. I'll check out the URL you sent. Thanks!

It's all been said, so I'll just add "a pat on the back"!

Yes, you did a very nice job on this one! I don't think anyone has asked about the "gold-tone" color you used, but consider it asked!