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Marc @ MPC Motorsports

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Posts posted by Marc @ MPC Motorsports


  1. I think Gregg reviewed this spray booth in the mag last year. Supposedly a great value as the price is very attractive but keep in mind that the blower motor in some of the other units on the market cost more than this booth does!

    I think Micro Mark offers this booth along with several others and this one is the cheapest by far. One of the features of this unit over some of the others is the portability of it. Lightweight and easily moved, this is ideal for someone who does not have a dedicated spray area and has to set up and tear down to spray models.

    I have been thinking about this one but am leaning more towards a Pace unit as it is sturdier and more to my liking.

    I'd save my money and get something like a Pace or Paasche, a "real" paint booth. Quality and safety wise, you'll be money ahead.


  2. its price. same amount of money for 3 oz of testers or model masters or 12 oz of krylon. looking at duplicolor online i dont see any colors in their lacquers. do you mean their enamels? i didnt like the testers enamel, it went on thick , ugly , and took forever to dry.

    Yes, it is "4 for 1" price wise, but if you ruin a model with it, what have you saved?

    Testors enamels, unless you have an airbrush and use their thinner or lacquer thinner, stay away from them too. They never dry. You can use a thermostatically controlled food dehydrator to force dry Testors and other paints too. Another tip is to warm the can in hot tap water before painting. It helps the paint to fully atomize and flow better.

    You want Testors Model Master lacquers, Testors One Coat lacquers, or Tamiya TS spray lacquers.

    Testors spray lacquer colors

    Tamiya spray lacquer colors

    Duplicolor Perfect Match colors are not shown visually on line that I can find. I HIGHLY recommend spending a little more money and trying the Testors and Tamiya lacquers. They are safe for styrene, dry fast and are easy to apply. Do you have a Hobby Lobby near where you live? They offer 40% off coupons about two times per month and you can use them to purchase the Testors lacquer paints.

    There are numerous online sources for Testors and Tamiya lacquer sprays that will save you money as well. If you really want to use Krylon, proceed with caution. Cheaper is not always better.


  3. Do you have access to hobby paints like the Testors and Tamiya lacquers locally? If not, order some online. Otherwise, skip the Krylon and go to your local auto parts store and get some Duplicolor sandable or filler primer and some Duplicolor spray paint, both color and clear.

    What is your reason for wanting to use Krylon? Availability? Price? Color selection? Some people have good luck with the stuff but it is more for household applications like painting wood, metal, and plastics other than model kit styrene. Even though it is called and enamel, the solvents are too hot for model car styrene. Do not use Krylon primer. Use the Duplicolor primer before you shoot Krylon as it will provide a better barrier. Krylon tends to spray too heavy for model car usage as well.

    If Krylon is all you have access to, then use it with caution. There are better choices out there IMHO. Krylon would be a last resort for me.


  4. After a 15 month hiatus, this one is back on the bench. I started this build nearly SEVEN YEARS AGO and this time I am committed to finishing it. After I finished applying BMF on my '64 Falcon build, I grabbed the Mustang from the shelf and finished applying BMF to it. Then, I added the painted Model Car Garage photoetch grille and installed the chrome headlight buckets that came in the original AMT 1966 Mustang kit.

    DSCN0752-vi.jpg

    At this time, the Mustang is at the same stage of completion as the '64 Falcon, so the plan is to work on them simultaneously until both are finished. Stay tuned and enjoy the ride!


  5. well, i went to wal mart to look at the krylon fusions. it doesnt say if its lacquer or enamel. it says its fast drying tho. it does say for plastic. but i didnt see any primer in that line. there was a white primer in the outdoor indoor labeled krylon paint, can i use that? can i use those indoor outdoor sprays on plastic cars? it doesnt say plastic on the indoor outdoor can. am i not supposed to prime the fusion paint? they did have some colors in the fusion line i liked and also in the indoor outdoor line. these were $4.34 for a 12 oz can, so it would be nice if they worked. i have an elvira thunderbird i paid 40 bucks for. i like the fusion blue, but i dont wanna screw up my 40 dollar model. thanks for your help.

    I totally understand the value proposition by using Krylon, etc, for model cars. The few times I tried these paints 15 years ago when I returned to the hobby, I got burned with crazing. They are not formulated to work on styrene models. At least use a primer like Duplicolor and their line of automotive touch up paints. If you don't want to ruin a $40 model, use the right paint. Get some Duplicolor sandable or filler primer, and better yet, get some Testors or Tamiya hobby lacquers. You'll be glad you did! ;)


  6. I picked up one of the Lil' Yeller School Bus Show Rods at Tuesday Morning on Monday and was going to try and put the Pactra Pearl White over Model Master's Chrysler Yellow 2 Stage Lacquer. Kinda looking for a School Bus Yellow, but with some pearl to it.

    Is that blue Pactra's Metallic Blue by chance Marc?

    Pactra Aqua Wave, kinda blue turquoise flip flop paint.

    You better test that pearl white over the yellow as I don't think it will give you what you are looking for. Get some Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Clear and shoot that over the Chrysler Yellow. That will give you the look you want. I did this over Wimbledon White on my '64 Falcon that it "On the Workbench" right now.


  7. Hello, I am trying to strip some acrylic paint (brushed on if it matters) from some parts but having no luck. Imtried draino and bleach with absolutely no effect. Before go out and buy some Of the stuff mentioned here I was wondering if someone can point me n the right direction. TIA.

    Go to Walmart and look for 91% isopropol (rubbing) alcohol. It has a red label on the bottle vs the blue label on 70%. 70% isn't strong enough so don't buy it. Get a couple of quart bottles and a plastic container with a lid. You will want to keep the container sealed as the alcohol is highly flammable! Do not smoke or use any type of flame or spark when working with alcohol.


  8. Ebay means...caveat emptor. Let the buyer beware.

    I've had over 700 Ebay transactions in 10+ years. Only a handful of times can I say I got "burned" or made a bad deal, but I never blamed it on the seller. Since I primarily purchase vintage builders, it is often difficult to assess the condition of the model by the pictures and the seller's description. The AMT 1964 Falcon I am currently restoring was a success. Paint stripped with no problems. Glass and chrome not glued to the body. Other parts lightly glued. I've bought a few that were lacquer crazed, undetectable in the pictures. Bought many that were truly "glue bombs". Paid $70+ for a sealed MPC 1974 Dodge Challenger annual that had this inside.

    DSCN0580-vi.jpg

    This wasn't the seller's fault, just one of the risks in purchasing sealed, vintage kits.

    Have I overpaid for stuff? Sure, we all have. Easy to get caught up in the "auction" thinking that this is the last one and I have to have it! Regardless of how rare a model is, another one will show up in due time. I've paid lots of money for what turned out to be junk and have found bargains on rare gems.

    Like I opened this post, caveat emptor...let the buyer beware. :D


  9. Finally got some bench time this weekend. I polished the paint and applied 60% or so of the chrome trim. Haven't built a model with this much chrome trim since I built a Johan 1959 Rambler wagon.

    DSCN0750-vi.jpg

    All of the passenger side trim still needs done. I plan to paint the vent window frames with matt black paint.

    Marc

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