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Marc @ MPC Motorsports

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Posts posted by Marc @ MPC Motorsports


  1. Don,

    What are you wanting to paint with chrome paint? If you are hoping to duplicate the look of chrome plating in a paint, it's not going to happen. I use Tamiya acrylic chrome silver to paint small details. Alclad chrome when airbrushed looks good on small parts, less so on bumpers, etc. I was an early user of Alclad but I have since switched to having parts I want to be "chrome" sent out for chrome plating.

    There is no paint that really duplicates the look of chrome.

    Marc


  2. Nice build! Here's mine I started a few years ago using a Johan 1970 RR.

    100_1946-vi.jpg

    I used Testors One Coat Graphite Dust on mine. Aoshima wheels that will have black spokes. Your build might be the inspiration I need to return to work on it. Stay tuned...


  3. I'll be watching this one. Waaaaaay back, in the early 1970's, I built an MPC 1972 Cuda with the Superbird nose and wing from the MPC 1971 Road Runner kit. I thought it was cool and that nose piece fit quite nicely.


  4. That advice holds true for pretty much any computer-printed decals ... waxing them WILL destroy them.

    I've never tried clear-coating Keith's decals, either, but, the only clear I'd feel even remotely comfortable using over them would be Future.

    Brushing a coat of Microscale Liquid Decal Film on Keith's decal sheets prior to use also makes them much easier to work with. Here's a link ... http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-12&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=6

    If you use Liquid Decal Film on Keith's decals and apply them with Micro Set, you can clear with Tamiya TS-13. Just use light coats at first before any final wet coats and allow 30 minutes between all coats. I use this method with Keith Marks, Fred Cady, Slixx and any other decals, kit or otherwise.

    Scale Motorsports CF decals...

    DSCN0136-vi.jpg

    Keith Marks...

    100_1229-vi.jpg

    Fred Cady...

    100_1679-vi.jpg


  5. From my collection...

    DSCN0712-vi.jpg

    Kinda hard to find but they do show up on Ebay if you watch for them. I got this one about a year or so ago. It was sealed before I got it. Anything you want to know about it, just ask.

    The 1973 kit was the first MPC Vega kit without the opening rear hatch and came with front and rear spoilers that first appeared in the MPC Street Funny Vega kit.


  6. Not much exciting going on- still doing bodywork- quite a bit of work grinding out globs of glue and glass and remains of the grille center on the inside, going to try to leave the taillights in and work around them. Also noticed someone had removed the "split" in the lower front opening- probably will leave it alone as it doesn't seem to stand out with a front license plate in place

    I would go after those glued in taillights with your Dremel if I were you. You will be glad you did. :D


  7. Testors orange and white. Cured for a week (orange) and 3 days (white). Krylon clear. The cracking was almost immediate ; as soon as it hit the paint, I could see dark splotches and cracks.

    Testors Enamel? If so, that is the likely culprit. Also, Krylon paints, despite what most folks say, is too "hot" to use on plastic models and especially over enamel paint.

    Testors enamels take a long time to fully cure. Could be weeks/months unless you use a food dehydrator to force the paint to cure. If you can still smell solvents, it is still not fully cured. I would recommend you switch to the Testors lacquers or Tamiya lacquer spray paints. They are light years ahead of the old Testors enamels that we all grew up with.

    What model did you paint? I would recommend stripping the paint and starting over or trying to find a replacement body.


  8. I dont know who is or was A/FX but that hood looks outstanding on there!! Cant wait to see more details, should look slick, I like your color choice. How are you guy's deconstructing models without breaking anything? Thanks.

    Ron

    Ron,

    This one was an easy deconstruct. Glass was not glued in, neither was the interior tub. Seats and dash were lightly glued. Front bumper was missing, rear bumper was not glued. Taillights not glued to the bezels. Can't say the same for others. Sometimes, parts get broken or destroyed in the process. I've had to use a Dremel to grind out glass and interior parts on many a builder.


  9. Exhausting work!!! :rolleyes: Tonight I've been bending pipe for the exhaust system. Made the headpipes from styrene tubing with floral wire inside. The rest is from an AMT 1969 Torino Cobra kit.

    DSCN0710-vi.jpg

    Also took a picture of the painted Falcon standing proud on all fours to show the revised stance. I tweaked the front to lower it a bit more.

    DSCN0704-vi.jpg

    Enjoy!!!


  10. >Tamiya is not only NOT the best, it is not important.

    that might be your opinion (and thats what it is, an opinion, unless you got something scientific to back it up), but i dont share it.

    thanks though.

    In my opinion, Tamiya is the best for models. I don't mind airbrushing paint but when it comes to primer, I would rather spray it from a can. Duplicolor Filler Primer is a good option and I do use it in some cases like resin bodies and chassis. I haven't used Mr Surfacer but it is more expensive (in spray cans) than Tamiya. I bought six cans of Tamiya when I first heard it would be unavailable for a time, so I have a good supply to get me thru until it return.


  11. Tamiya USA released this statement on Feb 4 regarding the primers and other products:

    "Tamiya America released a statement on Thursday concerning its efforts to update some of its products to comply with U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission standards. This is reflected mostly in label updates and not a reformulation of products.

    In the release, Tamiya says it recognizes and understands that distributors and retailers are having difficulties getting certain products, but is working as quickly as it can to bring all of its products into compliance. Items currently in the process of relabelling include:

    Tamiya Acrylic Paint (813XX, 817XX, 815XX and 810XX); Tamiya Putty (87053 and 87095); Tamiya Cements (87012 and 87038); Tamiya Thinners (81520, 81020, 81030, 81040 and 87077); Tamiya Primers (87026, 87042, 87044, 87061, 87064, 87075 and 87096)

    The anticipated re-release date for these products is April 2011.

    Fred Medel, head of marketing for Tamiya America said that there will be a large backorder to fill when the supply line is back to 100%."

    Should be available soon...


  12. I use black iron pipe nipples , 1/2 or 3/4 in , 6 in. long . Take a piece of 2 1/2 masking tape , lay it sticky side up on the top of the pipe nipple , take another piece and wrap it around the side to hold the top piece in place . Simply stick your body onto the pipe nipple and you can turn the body 360 degrees while you are holding it and airbrush at the same time .

    You'll find it very easy to handle and your overall paint coverage will improve tenfold !

    Donn Yost

    That's why I use the soy sauce bottle for the ability to turn 360 degrees while painting. The wide base of the bottle is easy to grip and makes a great topple-free stand.

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