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About r60man

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    MCM Friend
  • Birthday September 24

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  • Scale I Build
    1:20 or 1:24

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  • Location
    Robesonia, PA
  • Full Name
    John Clauss

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  1. Back in 1970 I was 6, but I had two older sisters. My father worked at a Harley dealership. Dad brought home the model and we built it as a family project. My oldest sister who was 14 at the time had built quite a few model, and she was good at it. She took the lead, and they let me do real simple stuff. Dad took the built one in and put it in the display case. Someone came in and asked about it, and Dad showed him the kit. He didn't want a kit, he wanted the one in the case. Dad made what he thought was a silly expensive price, and the guy paid. So he brought home another kit. Meanwhile my other sister who was 11 thought that the plastic sleeping bag looked crappy, so her and my Mom went about making them out of cloth. They also started doing something with the seat (I forget exactly what to make them look more realistic). We started to crank them out, Dad wound up selling every single one. Probably my first memory of modeling. Sorry for the hijack. You are doing a great job on the rebuild.
  2. I am building a 1959 Impala that David Pearson Drove. I have the decals and the street version of the car. What I need is pictures of the roll cage and the interior so I can scratch build what I need. Thanks for helping.
  3. It is true, I remember watching races on TV. When incar cameras first started. You could see him, and a few others lighting up under caution.
  4. Tamiya kits and paints are just fabulous. You are doing a great job with the car,
  5. So I picked up this brand new in the box Revell '59 Impala kit. I typically build race cars, but I want to do this one really well, and stock. I love the lines of the car. I have decided to go with the stock '59 color "Roman Red". Are there any model paints out there that I can use to get this color? Also I am going with a red interior. I am assuming that these were vinyl interiors? What would be the best paint to replicate that? Below are pics that I found for reference.
  6. I love the looks of this kit. Your work is inspiring.
  7. Gotta follow the TROG rules. Here they are: Year: Car bodies must be 1934 or older, American made only. Engine: American made 4 cylinder and V8 flatheads up to 1953. Fuel: Gas only, NO ALCOHOL OR NITRO! Running gear: 1953 and older. No modern transmissions, disc brakes, alternators, etc. Wheels & Tires: No 15 inch wheels. 16, 17 & 18 inch only. No widening of wheels, stock only. No aggressive knobby or paddle tires. Paint: Period paint that emulates the early days of racing. No late model graphics, No vinyl stickers or emblems, etc. Cars can be shiny, primered or have old paint. No sponsorship/advertising allowed on cars or bikes without written consent. Additional requirements and restrictions: No headlights, no white wall tires or aggressive tread, no Fenders on hot rods (some very early-teens racers and speedsters may be exempt but must be pre-approved). Cars must have visible race numbers. *Notes: Vintage reproduction parts are accepted. i.e.; frame rails, intakes, cylinder heads, ignition systems, Stromberg carb's, etc. Converted 12 volt generators are ok, no alternators. Absolutely no fiberglass bodies. My goal is to own a motorcycle to race in this one day.
  8. I love the looks of the old Caddys. You have done this one proud!
  9. My father had a 1975 Monte Carlo, fire engine red with a white vinyl roof and white interior. It only had a 350 in it, but it had the Rally Wheels. Boy that car looked good from every angle. When is rusted away (Pennsylvania winters take their toll) Dad was going to ask $800 for it. I told him to hold off and let me do something first. I went out and got steelies for it. Had the tires switched. Sold the Rally Wheels (even the spare was a Rally Wheel!) for $2250 (The spare didn't have a cap or I would have went for more). Now you could get a lot more for those wheels, but Dad was happy selling for getting $3050 instead of just $800.
  10. Now all the cars are vinyl wrapped. The decals and graffics are all part of the wrap so there is no bump from the base to the decal. This is hard to replicate on a model but base coat, decals then clear comes the closest because the clear will typically level things out. In the old days they would put the stickers on right on top of the paint. No clear was ever used. So I don't clear my NASCAR models. I paint, polish then apply the decals and it is done. Supposedly the vinyl wrap saves weight. So they don't even use primer, they just shoot a thin layer of color, usually white, or black and wrap over that. If you ever get a chance to visit a NASCAR shop and you can see the cars really close up it is amazing how bad they look sometimes. After the race they look like trash even if they weren't wrecked. The Stewart-Haas shop has cars in the lobby that you could touch, if they would let you.
  11. The older and obscure NASCAR cars are my favorites. How many 2016 cars can you build before you get sick of them? They are all the same. Very interesting car, great paint and a stunning look in the end. Great job.
  12. That car was a stunner. Great job.
  13. Looking great, those were very cool cars.
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