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Everything posted by Dpate

  1. I almost bought another one of these today when i was out shopping think hobby town wanted $24, but it is a beautiful kit. Michaels around me has one small 4 foot section for model kits and it sucks. So i never shop at Michaels.
  2. Well there's your problem right there. Do not use that for clear parts. Everyone that has posted so far has gave great viable options. Canopy glue, BSI gold+, even AK has a glue for clear parts and photo etch, 2 part epoxy, mod podge. Lots of viable options for clear parts. Get these for your small glue applications too there worth every penny. 500 for like $7 much cheaper than the ones from micro mark 100 for $15. Quality of cotton are great on them too. I own the over priced micro mark ones and there the same thing except the micro mark ones are smaller in length that's all. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LCC99W3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
  3. Awesome sauce. My BD in 4 days. Let me know how that yellow fever n metal earth goes. Been eye balling the yellow fever.
  4. I have this kit myself and I'll have to double check mine. What is part #50 suppose to be? EDIT: Wait that's the windshield part lol. So there notorious for being bent?
  5. Man i searched quite a few walmarts and they never got anything lol, but most of the kits these walmarts have been getting I've got anyways. But to the folks that say support LHS bruh it's hard to sometimes. Like why would i pay $70 for a kit at a LHS when i know i can get it else where for like $45-$50? or when hobby lobby has 40% off sale or when ollies has good kits in for $8 or $20. All the LHS around me i do support though by buying something(like a can of tamiya paint to decant) but it's not a lot. Hobby town is one shop i go too sometimes but rarely buy anything cause there super expensive compared to most. Like they have some regular kits for $45 that i know you can easily get for $25-$30 so why would i buy that?
  6. Hopefully they have the 40% off sale this weeknd and have the kit in because i'm heading out of town to do shopping for my birthday with a friend.
  7. I would only use cheap store bought lacquer thinner for cleaning airbrushes etc. I would use higher quality thinner like Mr hobby leveling thinner or even tamiya's lacquer thinner, but that's just me though. If you use the cheap stuff from big box store and it works good for you than great.
  8. As a HUGE supernatural fan i will own that kit one day. Probably wont build it but have it to just have it.
  9. Ditch the furniture paint and use quality products. Tamiya primer in the can, Mr.hobby primer in the can and even ammo by migs primer is AMAZING. Self levels beautifully, sands great if needed, very nice matt finish. Makes your parts look like they were actually molded in the color lol. I only listed raddle cans because I'm assuming you don't have a airbrush?
  10. I've used vallejo air on small parts and stuff but never a body. I would not use there primer either you can't really sand it at all.
  11. Probably was lol. That's how it is around here loud speakers on bikes can even hear the engine. As someone who loves motorcycles and have 100% respect for bikes I've actually lost some of that respect to most bikers. I've seen a dude with no shirt and shorts on with open face helmet like no gear on at all. I don't care if it's hot or not wear your gear bruh. All i could think about was him getting hit and his skin sliding across hot pavement 😕
  12. I use them for paint most of the time, but there awesome too
  13. I wouldn't pay that kind of money for any car lol.
  14. I always cut off parts from the tree before priming or painting. Most folks usually start with the body because it's what usually takes the longest because that's your bread and butter of the whole build honestly besides interior. I usually work on the body while working on the chrome trees like dechroming etc.
  15. Sweet! I've been keeping a eye out on this topic for awhile. I'll eventually make me a order directly from BMF themselves instead of ordering from random places with old stock.
  16. If you want "cheapest" you would have to do ebay and get lucky finds or bids. Model round up isn't the cheapest. Hobby lobby isn't either unless they have the 40% off sale. Plaza japan is the best for tamiya, aoshima, etc cheapest but shipping can be killer. Hobbylinc isn't the cheapest per say either. Hobby town if you have one isn't the cheapest either lol. Megahobby is better than model round up when it comes to getting product faster and cheaper. There is no BEST paint it's all subjective. Everyone can give you brand names of paint, but you'll have to ultimately see what line of paint works for you. Unless you wanna be like most of us and have tons of paint from tons of different brands.
  17. Yeah i was gonna tell you that it could be adjusted but he beat me to it lol.
  18. Oh i wont. I ordered quite a bit off the site along with the Moebius prostar & lonestar PE sets. Love big rigs. That's why i play the PC game american truck simulator. It's the realest and closest I'll get to driving a big rig lol.
  19. I own the regular tamiya cement and both extra thin and quick setting version of tamiya. The glue isn't meant to replace CA glue for everything. It's suppose to be used on parts like engine halves for example that allow capillary action or any regular part that can easily allow capillary action It's not a one & 4 all type glue. If you're putting it on two separate parts and than putting both parts together? It'll work, but not to it's fullest. By the time you put the brush back into the bottle most of it will have evaporated off the parts lol. It has it's place for certain situations just like thin, medium, thick CA glue, epoxy, etc. I wouldn't use extra thin cement to glue down seats into a chassis, but i would use medium CA glue like zap-a-gap or starbound for example to do that. Everybody should have multiple types of glue on there workbench, because they all have there place and time. Tamiya extra thin quick setting cement is especially useful to use on broken small parts instead of CA glue. I've had kits come in with tiny broken parts and after holding the tiny part with a good set of tweezers and while holding it where it broke and than just a touch of quick setting cement it'll look like it was never broken. Capillary action is the key and even regular thin CA glue will work the same way and using a glue looper for a cleaner job.
  20. I recently just picked up this kit from AMT. Beautiful PE, and thanks to you I've spend $120 on there site lol.
  21. Maybe i just get unlucky with alot of kits and get lemons lol. I'm not trying to sound whiny or anything like that cause trust me i LOVE this hobby (Can easily show proof of that). It's just i expect good detail and fitment etc if i'm paying $35+ for a kit. I don't mind little clean up here and there or cutting here and there or filling and sanding etc - but if the kit has horrible fitment issues, and hardly any details, and more flash than parts than yes I'm gonna be annoyed and probably trash it. I know every company has there amazing kits, good, and bad kits. Like this one tractor kit i own. Beautifully detailed etc worth all $90 i paid for it. But than you have this trash lol that i went into with high expectations and was disgusted with. Misaligned parts, fitment issues, etc maybe i got a lemon? But for $36 there shouldn't be ANY issues at all far as fitment goes. Drive shafts were either to long or too short, and had some parts molded wrong.
  22. I don't do tanks from tamiya just there cars and bikes. I do a bit of everything from every company. Just I'm not gonna spend days and weeks and waist my time and materials if i know a kit is gonna be barely subpar or janky. I understand subject matter, but quality is important to me too. I don't like wasting money on trash. Subpar is fine too because there are great subpar kits, but the price doesn't reflect the product regardless of subject matter. I've spent over $100 dollars on alot of kits, but there fantastic kits especially alot of the big rigs i own. Like i hesitate when i buy a AMT kit, but i don't hesitate when i buy a tamiya, hasegawa, aoshima, mobies, trumperter, meng, and few others. Like i just bought the atlantis release of the 57 chevy bel air, but i heard it was complete trash. So i'm currently trying to sell it because i don't wanna open it and waste my time with it when i already know it's bad because of what i've been told. I guess my expectations are higher than most in the hobby, but if you go into it with low expectations it wouldn't be so bad i suppose lol.
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