• Announcements

    • General Usage   05/10/2017

      If someone is acting badly, either in a forum or a private message, please report it. There are conveniently located buttons for sending the post to the moderators. 


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About noname

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Contact Methods

  • Website URL http://

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build 1/25

Profile Information

  • Location Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

5,333 profile views

noname's Activity

  1. noname added a post in a topic Rattle can painting outside   

    Oh ya, I should have mentioned. I only use lacquer rattle cans.  Tamiya and Duplicolor  work well. I don't have a lot of luck with enamel.  I find lacquer paint dries quickly so is better suited to the outdoor scenario we are talking about.
  2. noname added a post in a topic Rattle can painting outside   

    Where I live here in Canada we usually get the odd warmer day.  You can hold off until such a day occurs. Another idea that may help is to shoot paint one layer at a time which I believe is a good idea anyway. After a good primer coat do a thin layer barely covering the body.  Bring it inside and let it dry.  If it needs a sanding do so, wash and repeat. If you do it in 3-4 goes you can catch mistakes before the final coat.  If you have enough paint on after your final coat and still have a blemish, you'll have a good enough coat to do a light sanding without cutting down to the plastic.
  3. noname added a post in a topic 56 Chevy Gasser   

    Thanks guys for the comments. Thanks 6bblbird for your knowledge I know was gained form years of experience being around a drag track.
    I think I'll go with what I have, call it a mid 60s gasser that may have been lucky enough to squeeze the frame through an AHRA event (or something like that).  I kind of made a goof with that frame. I do make Altered builds sometimes so maybe I got confused. I suppose this car could be thrown into an Altered class at an NHRA event, where it probably would not be very competitive. But then again with it's weight it would have been in a lower class anyway.  I know sometimes they did not change rules until a trend starts.  Maybe this guy is the reason they came up with that rule.
  4. noname added a post in a topic 1954 Hudson Hornet Street Gasser   

    This looks great. Nice combination.
  5. noname added a post in a topic 70 cuda project,super stock   

    Nice clean build.  Are those rims from one of the Revell Willys Gassers kits?
  6. noname added a post in a topic Jeff Lindstrom`s: 1930 Ford Model A -10 1/2 second race car on the "Work Bench" 9/10/16 "Finished pictures posted in the "Under Glass" section 11/5/16   

    This is a beautiful build as it goes for scale Gassers. You really have mastered the chrome Alclad. Boys I love those front rims. Where did you get the engine?
  7. noname added a post in a topic 41 Plymouth gasser build thread   

    This looks cool. I like the rawness of it.
  8. noname added a post in a topic Tools for lathe work?   

    Yes the price of a new Sherline is definitely out of my league right now. But I will keep an eye out for a second hand. Thanks for all the suggestions and tips guys.  I appreciate your time.
  9. noname added a post in a topic 56 Chevy Gasser   

    Thanks Ace.  I'll ditch the fan idea. I don't like cars with the nose sky high.  I like them up but not unrealistically high. I was planning on using pie crusts but if I am not mistaken they could still be purchased well after 1964 when I believe wrinkle wall slicks were first used.
  10. noname added a post in a topic 56 Chevy Gasser   

    Thanks guys. Iborg, maybe I'll call this a 66 period Gasser.  I don't want to mess with the frame at this point.  I think the 409 is fine. I've seen them used in everything including Gassers. Maybe I'll leave the fan off but add an alternator for good measure. I will probably leave the inner fenders as they are part of the body. Now that I think of it I probably should have worked with the stock frame. But these square tube frames are clean and fairly easy to make.
    MPi, I used the seat belt material and PE from Detail Master.  It got worn along the edges from building them but I kind of like it. Looks like it is really worn from use.
    Hedotwo, if you are interested in Gassers, I suggest, "Gasser Wars" by Larry Davis. And his book on Super Stock is also very good. But there are always questions not answered in the books. However they cover almost everything.
    Thanks Modelfink. The front axles and springs really aren't that hard to make.  This drop axle was taken from a 32 Ford kit and I made the springs. Sometimes I do straight axles completely from scratch. They are simple and fun to do.
  11. noname added a topic in Drag Racing Models   

    56 Chevy Gasser
    Hey guys.  I started this a while ago and picked it up again recently. I have a couple of questions for those who may know this stuff. First let me start off with the engine.  I am using a 409 with a blower. You can see my scratch built  magneto/fuel pump combo on the side. There is also an alternator there as well.

    I wanted this car to be possibly street driven. That is why the alternator is there. I was wondering if anybody has used (thinking 1964-65) a fan with a blower? It would have to stick out to clear the blower belt.
    Next is the body and chassis. I trimmed all the molding off of the sides of the car for a nice clean look. Of course the rear wheel opening was radiused. Then I have the scratch built front axle and traction bars from the AWB Chevy II kit (I think). So my next question is would this square tube frame be allowed in Gasser class in the mid 60's?  Also, would they be allowed to run a car without any inner wheel wells? I do know that the inner fenders were allowed to be trimmed to clear headers. And I have seen in "Gasser Wars" what looks like flip front end without wheel wells.

    And lastly is a picture of the interior which I believe to be pretty much complete.

    Thanks for looking.
    • 27 replies
  12. noname added a post in a topic Tools for lathe work?   

    Thanks Pete.  Sounds like you know your stuff. I tried this a while ago with another cheaper drill and the cylindrical object I was trying to make never came out round. It was always off.  So I have this drill and it seemed like it might have worked a little better but still did not seem quite true. The tolerance you mentioned is surely an issue I'm sure. I had wondered if a better quality drill might fix this.
  13. noname added a post in a topic Revell question   

    LOL.  Thanks for your experiences guys. Yes I did fill out the order form on the website. I'm hoping my parts just show up so I can call this a good experience. Sorry for those of you who have not found joy. For the price a guy pays for kits these days, we don't want any flawed parts we can't use.
  14. noname added a post in a topic Revell question   

    Good to know, thanks for that guys. Maybe they will just turn up in my post office box.
  15. noname added a topic in General   

    Revell question
    Around 2 weeks ago I sent a message to Revell requesting parts replacement. I bought the newer Dart 2 in 1 kit and the slicks were pretty blemished. It was like they were taken out of the mold before cooling and set on something while still soft.  The Cragar rims were also blemished on the outer part of the rim. I am wondering if  it takes a while to hear back from Revell  or do they just send the parts without a response?  Thanks
    • 11 replies