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Tony Bryan

Members
  • Content count

    365
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About Tony Bryan

  • Rank
    MCM Avid Poster

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://loadedheavy.proboards.com/index.cgi?

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/16th

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sydney,Australia
  • Full Name
    Tony

Recent Profile Visitors

6,897 profile views
  1. Caterpillar TC 660

    Alain, that is coming along very well, love your work
  2. Prostar to Cat conversion

    Done a little more to the CAT,all badge work is finished and the front bar is also finished All that is left to do is the 1/4 guards and share tanks, my add an ice pack also
  3. 1/16th Aluminium Guards

    Finally got around to having the brackets cast in white metal, while I was at it I made some new plastic style guards
  4. 1/16 Scale Peterbilt 359 Large Car

    Great bit of work, love those mirrors
  5. Prostar to Cat conversion

    Dash and firewall converted to RHD, this was done by a good friend of mine, I just cast it for him
  6. Peterbilt 351 with Peerless trailer

    Jarda Great work and the detail is amazing as usual , shame about the "logging" accident
  7. Prostar to Cat conversion

    As you can see Aaron it is very prostar, but the subtle differences are no side skirt, square tanks, no international badging, different front bar, etc, The US version is ugly, but easy to build if someone wanted to have a go, mod the prostar cab and scratch the hood
  8. Prostar to Cat conversion

    They are fitted with a C15, I'll chop the max force and scratch the head of a C15 to make it look close In Australia we don't lounge around, the sleeper is just that a sleeper, it has a bunk in it
  9. In Australia, we have the Prostar, but under the name or Banner if you like of the Cat Group, so I decided to have a go at building an Aussie version, here is the grill, badge and front bar so far, on the Aussie version they have a square tank and no side flaring,also have to scratch the hood 1/4 guards
  10. 1988 Mack Superliner 1/25 WIP (New updates, Page 4)

    Have a read here, read all the 153 pages of this tutorial, by one of the best brass builders http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/2592-article-1-8th-scale-model-t-racer-build-journal.html And another exceptional brass build http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/24503-article-scratch-built-stock-ford-model-t-1-8-th-scale.html And this will show how brass is best worked with and it capabilities read all 68 pages by a hobbyist and see the results he gets http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/36929-continental-mark-ii.html and another one just to get the picture http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/54925-another-super-7-a.html
  11. 1988 Mack Superliner 1/25 WIP (New updates, Page 4)

    "Any feedback on the project is always welcome, even suggestions on it are also. I hope you enjoyed this update. " Ok, you asked for some feed back, well I think this is just terrible, the frame is a mess, from someone wanting to make a accurate model, using a shelf bracket is far from that, and steel at that, cutting it with a dremel and marking with a marker pen is not an accurate way to build a frame, nor is it reliable for consistency, Suggestion, I suggest that you throw the steel frame away, and start again with sheet brass, brass when treated with the respect it deserves can be built far nicer than any other material, it has the strength and lightness to out do plastic, as well as steel, and it will give you a better finish and far easier than trying to weld a rusty shelf bracket, but the key is, it can produce a far more accurate frame than a steel shelf bracket, for the amount of time and effort that you have put into this you could have had someone fabricate the 2 C channel sections for you
  12. 1938 Ford Brushbreaker

    That is so cool, and beautifully built to Did you scratch the engine on the rear?
  13. Nice so far, heres a little trick that you could use for the tanker, the plastic really doesn't need to be heated, if you are using something like PVC pipe, (we call it storm water pipe) try this experiment, cut say 4 inches of pipe, then cut your self a bit timber, or acrylic of say, 1/2 in thick and as wide as the tank you are making, apply pressure to the top to squash it, and slide the timber or acrylic into the centre and let go, watch what it does, the timber will be self centring, and will hold the shape real nice, obviously experiment with what you need to get the correct shape,but it won't alter over time or move when fixed, but you can infill if you want to, or fill with expander foam to hold shape Heating PVC pipe with a flame releases very dangerous chemicals, including arsenic be careful with that stuff
  14. That is some real nice hinge work, what are you doing for the latches?
  15. There is some very nice detail happening here, fantastic work so far